Murray_Calavera
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Posts posted by Murray_Calavera
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1 hour ago, Skida6453 said:
Intention was to strip it all back to the required level to get access to the repairs, provide replacement panels if needed, engage a reputable repair certfier a workshop to do the the repairs, before re-assembling myself and getting NZ LVV.
Sounds good. Have you started approaching any workshops yet? It doesn't sound like your plan needs to change from what you intended to do from the start.
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What was your intention when you bought the car, did you plan to repair it yourself or were you planning to find a shop to do the work for you?
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21 hours ago, MBS206 said:
I think you missed the part where his car wasn't running...
My main concern of it being "at lengths" is more so in the fact it has been towed.
My perspective is probably different to a lot of peoples, as like in the old days, of having a larger block of land, my garage is in my backyard. Which means being a lot more prepared to get in and out with a car than say as I had a thought of, a garage at the front of the house.
I'm less worried about my cars that can be driven being stolen. Those ones are insured, and have a few hidden features that make them highly improbable to start, even with the keys. Though, if you do get one running, that's no problem. In my career I've developed a special set of skills to allow me to find them...The other defense for me for my running cars is inside my house. Even my neighbors joke about it with us saying "I pity the idiot who tries to break into your house"... They will be in for a small surprise inside...
And yep, you are 100% correct that most of those high end cars are being stolen the way you describe, and they aren't being towed. From chats with a few officers at QPS that I know, oddly enough, the most common theft of the high end cars in SEQ is actually by youths, for joy rides and having fun. Those people are not stealing non running cars with a tilt tray.
This specific theft is most likely to have been done by a low life, knowing there is value in the parts of a rolling Skyline.
There's a few people wrecking R33's around SEQ that appear a little dodgy in how they run their "enterprise". Those are the places I'd start scoping out myself to attempt to locate the chassis or easily identifiable parts if possible.
Unfortunately cars get stolen with tow trucks all the time
. I still wouldn't call skull dragging a car onto a tow truck a great length for a motivated thief.
That's why the first thing I said was, the primary defence is to keep the car out of sight. If our thief with a tow truck doesn't know it's there, he isn't coming for it.
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I hate to say it, but this isn't a 'great length' to steal a car. The people that steal high value cars are very used to stealing cars from garages. It really isn't a complicated process, a lot of people leave their keys in very typical places (think bowl/rack by the front door). You break into the house, grab the key and off you go. So what, in about 1 minutes time they have taken the car?
Probably goes without saying that most of these cars being pinched in this manner are the higher end Audi/AMG/etc. It's the same process though regardless of whatever the car is.
If you're worried about this, keep your car out of sight. If no one knows its in the garage, no one is coming for it. Other things include if you have an aftermarket ECU, change a setting so the car won't start even with the keys, setup CCTV cameras that ping your phone on activation etc.
If you think it's hard to break into a house to grab the keys first, just picture the fire fighters coming to recuse someone from a burning house. It's what, 10 seconds to gain entry if that? Locks only help honest people stay honest.
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On 11/22/2023 at 9:47 AM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:
AEM widebands are decent, better than the Innovate junk - no self combusting heater circuits.
That's my experience too. Before I had a CAN based wideband, I always used an AEM wideband (I wouldn't be surprised if I was using one for over 10 years without issue).
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1 hour ago, silviaz said:
Michelin Pilot sports.
Which ones? (there are a few types of pilot sport tyres lol)
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On 10/27/2023 at 7:01 PM, silviaz said:
Hey all, I noticed on my car in the rain when I drive and if I give it a little bit of acceleration, the back end will start to kick out. Makes it dangerous as I can't merge onto an intersection safely, and if I give it too much gas my car will probably spin out. I know being rear wheel drive does affect things but was wondering how much of a difference semi slicks make compared to regular tyres? The research I did was mixed, saying semi slicks are more for drifting but the rep for the company said they can be used for both. I've also had a wheel alignment recently, and my tyres are near new.
Lots of good comments in this thread, I'll just throw this bit on top.
With semi's in the rain, there are a few things to think about -
* Getting temperature into the tyres is really important for making semi's hook up. Driving in the rain on a cold winter night will be very different to driving in the rain on a hot summers day.
* Semi's wear fast, tread depth has a big impact on how well they will hook up in the wet. Semi's don't have sipes so they need all the tread depth they can get to help evacuate the water.
* Not all semi's will work in the rain, regardless of temp/tread depth. Think Ventus Z214 vs Nankang NS2R. If you want to use them in the rain, I'd want to get some real world examples of them working in the wet first.
I've used Nankang NS2R 120TW year round in wet/dry conditions, in the rain on a hot summers day up here in QLD, it's a fantastic tyre. The best tyre I've driven on in the rain. I could actually put power down which amazed me.
On a cold day in the wet, they couldn't get enough temp into them to become optimal, however I wouldn't say they were dangerous. Think closer to a shitty street tyre rather then death trap lol.
I'd also say go with the advice above, get a set of good street tyres, something around Michelin Pilot Sport 4S quality level. Once you start making more power, you could consider going to semi's if you think the cost/performance ratio makes sense.
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My crystal ball says if he is buying upgraded fuel pumps, drilling out a venturi, buying an upgraded fuel pressure regulator, if he doesn't already have an upgraded rail/injectors, it's only a matter of time now lol.
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6 hours ago, tylink720 said:
Any current recs for a good budget reg? I don’t want to buy some cheap eBay stuff, but also don’t want to drop $500 on just a regulator. I’ve seen some for about $140-$170 like Tomei, P2M, NRG, AEM, ect
I vote Radium direct mount regulator. It's super nice mounting the reg directly on the rail. Keeps everything neat and tidy, saves space and saves on fittings/hoses/etc
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42 minutes ago, TurboTapin said:
I'm just wondering as you break in a new ring and pinion set, if the whining is normal.
I've got the same diff, mine never made any noise remotely close to what your describing. It's been perfect for the 8 or so years its been in the car now.
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I see @hypergear do the N55 turbo, I wonder how similar the N54 is?
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Have a think about an upgraded clutch pivot ball, it's cheap insurance.
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6 hours ago, SKYMAGGOT said:
Anyone notice much grip difference between 235 & 265 with same sort of compound?
Also running 235 front 265 rear compared to 235 or 265 all round?
At a very general level -
On the street, going wider you'll notice more tramlining and tendency to hydroplane in standing water. (On the street, one would hope you aren't doing anything to cause a tyre to overheat, however if you are the below also applies).
On the track, going wider improves the tyres ability to handle heat which improves grip levels and wear rates. Wider tyres generally means larger tread blocks, this again improves the tyres ability to handle heat.
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What does the just send it button do?
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13 minutes ago, Hafidel36 said:
It is a cheap aftermarket bodykit so the fitment was absolutely hideous. I will be bringing the whole lot to a bodyshop for fitting, aligning and modifying to get it spot on:
Sometimes the correct decision is to stop throwing good money after bad
If the company that sold that kit had a picture on their site of it fitting correctly, I'd be chasing a refund (false advertising) and going down another path.
I can't see your 'cheap' body kit being cheap after you've paid the bodyshop to make it fit.
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7 hours ago, Duncan said:
as the bishop said to the actress
So would an extra 6" be enough? lol
https://www.quickjack.com.au/accessories/slx-frame-extension-kit-pair.html
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It's not cheap, but would something like this work -
https://www.quickjack.com.au/accessories/truck-adapter-set.html
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12 hours ago, Chi-Town said:
Let's do the math.
QRT-C seat 6.4kg
Side mount 1.45kg
Recaro fixed base 2.26kg
10.11kg total
My stock power driver's seat that I weighed today 17.8kg
I was simply trying to show there is a decent amount of weight to be shed if you have the cash and time. The weight will vary depending on the components you use as would be expected.
Take it as you will.
So,
Sparco QRT-C $2,546
Sparco alloy side mounts $356 (steel ones are $180, but we are balling here)
Sparco base plate $395Everything x 2 = $6,594 with a potential weight savings of 15.38kgs provided they are starting with powered seats.
Don't mention that fact that we just replaced seats that previously reclined and previously could slide back and forth on a rail, with a seat that doesn't recline or slide. Worst bit being, using a factory 3 point harness with that seat would be a nightmare and it's not street legal/not ADR approved.
I still stand by my previous point that pulling weight out of a street car is not realistic or practical. Don't add lightness, just add performance/power.
If you want a lightweight car, start with a lightweight car.
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8 hours ago, Chi-Town said:
Do you have a copy of the 33 manual in English?
Here it is.
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6 hours ago, Chi-Town said:
Calm down, they were all rough numbers, but just showing possibilities of where to take out a good amount of weight. Here are some actual examples.
If you take it both 15-20kg front seats and replaced them with fixed position 6-8kg ultra light carbon Recaro QRT-C
I'm not going to do this for every "actual example" you gave, so lets just do the first "example".
So this carbon seat you're going to install, are you planning to just place it in the car and hope that with enough hopes and dreams it will stay in place or are you planning to mount it properly?
Looks like you might need one of these - (it weighs 1.45 kg)
https://www.sparcousa.com/product/qrt-side-mount-steel
And one of these - (Amazon lists the weight as, 2.26 kg)
https://www.sparcousa.com/product/seat-base-600-series
Sparco don't list the weight on their site (probably because the real weight is too heavy to market well, so they just leave it out), hopefully the Amazon data is accurate, but who knows.
Anyways, the moral of the story is, you are not installing a Sparco QRT-C seat at 6-8kg total when the side mount and base plate are 3.71 Kg on their own.
Anecdotally; I have a bride fixed back seat in my car, on alloy side plates and on a bride steel base plate. I can tell you that as soon as you mount one of these 'super light fixed back seats' they are no longer super light weight.
I'm not typing all of this up to have a go at you, I'm typing it up in an effort to keep facts on this site factual.
You just asked for help with a wiring diagram, how helpful would it be if everyone here gave you a pinout that was "close enough" I mean, half the wires are correctly labelled, isn't that good enough for you? You'd kinda want all of your wires to be correctly labelled yeah?
When people talk about how much weight they can save by swapping 2 parts, I think it would be most helpful if the numbers posted reflected reality.
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1 hour ago, Chi-Town said:
Plenty of ways to cut weight in a C34 depending on how deep your pockets are.
Swap the front seats out with ultra light carbon buckets = ~ 20-30kg (depending on seats chosen)
Swap out the full size battery for a LiPo4 unit = ~20-30kg (depending on battery chosen)
Cut down the front and rear crash beams = ~ 10kg (roughly)
Light weight wheels and tires = ~10-20kg (depending on wheel and tire chosen)
2 piece front and rear rotors = ~ 5-7kg
Remove HICAS = ~ 5kg
Lightweight suspension links =~5kg
Carbon prop shaft = ~10-15kg
Light weight coil overs =~5-10kg
Billet engine block =`40kg 😅
Considering the car is just slightly heavier that a R33 GT-R but has a better weight distribution I would concentrate on the quality of the handling and adding a bit more power.
So, you just made up a bunch of numbers?
Do you really think making up numbers helps anyone?
It's about as helpful as all the fake weight loss ad's, "Lose 10KG in 10 days with these meal replacement shakes!!"... uh huh.
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42 minutes ago, The Bogan said:
If your car doesn't come out to much in the wet Toyo R888R's last well, I got about 10k km out of them before putting RS4's back on, the R888R still had a few mm left from the tread wear markers when they came off, so probably another few k km's
The R888R's were the best "fair weather" street tyre I have ever used, BUT, they didn't like pools of standing water
I do alot of Hwy driving, rain, or shine, and whilst the R888R's were exceptional in the dry on the street they really didn't inspire confidence when hitting pools of water on the Hwy doing 110 kph
If my car was just a sunny Sunday cruiser I would definitely still be running the R888R's, the difference between dry grip between the R888R's and RS4's is large, as you would expect
From my experience with the RS4's you are likely to easily get 10-15 even 20k km out of them on the street if you aren't doing lots of skids or track work
My street tyres really have to be able to hold up to everything. I just drove down to Sydney for WTA, if a crazy storm hit on the way back up to QLD, I still want to be confident with the way the car handles and feel that I can safely get home.
That's good news for the RS4's, I was a little concerned when I measured the tread depth at just under 6mm, I would be over the moon to get 20k out of them.
I'm surprised how much life you got out of the R888R's as they are rated at 100 treadwear.
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. I still wouldn't call skull dragging a car onto a tow truck a great length for a motivated thief. 
Rotational Idle Settings
in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)
Posted
I vote you upload a video of your idle in here for those that haven't heard it before. (For those that haven't heard it, you need to hear it to appreciate how good it sounds)