Murray_Calavera
-
Posts
1,067 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
12 -
Feedback
0%
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Media Demo
Store
Posts posted by Murray_Calavera
-
-
Big no vote from me. I like being able to stop when it's raining.
-
It would be worth getting in contact with Supertech, they do 4032 pistons.
Would also be worth contacting the big players in the forged piston game. The modern coatings used on the piston skirts allow for tighter piston to cylinder wall clearance, you might find that your happy to run a 2618 piston with a modern coating.
Also, how much power do you expect to make and what fuel will you run?
-
1
-
-
15 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:
With sphericals you have to exercise a little extra paranoia. There's a number of things to be paranoid about. The parranoia may well be true paranoia, but the consequences of anything bad actually happening can be pretty dire, so the effort spent is probably worth it.
This list may not be complete, in fact probably isn't. It's just what rolls around in my head.
If they get scores on them then they can crack. So a piece of grit that manages to get dragged inside might bring you undone.
If they come loose at all (on the adjuster locknuts) then they can rotate to the point where they bid at one end of travel because they're not centered any more. Perhaps, if they have loosened, then this won't load them enough to cause them to fail, but it is well known that they should not be operated such that they reach the limit of rotation.
Depending on what other noises are around, you may not hear them moving if they are significantly worn, but if they are significantly worn, because they are such a small ball relative to the lever length of the arm, a little freeplay can result in quite a loss of control of arm angle/position.
If they get wet they can rust.
Sounds good.
So I don't need to do anything extreme like attack them with a pry bar to see if there is a mm of travel or anything like that?
-
27 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:
When I had urethane bushes in various of my suspension arms, I used to grease them regularly and probably replaced them at ~5 yr intervals. I found this to be annoying, but fine.
I now have harder rubber bushes in some arms, sphericals in others. The rubber ones get no attention at all and if they ever die and they are not available, I will just either buy complete new arms of the same type, or maybe buy sphericals to go onto them (which is usually possible). The existing sphericals I have demand regular attention. I clean and grease them at least annually and have replaced some of them at least twice, across the 6 or so years that they have been on the car. Although the front caster rod sphericals have been on the car for nearly 20 years and they are trouble free.
Slightly off topic question, but this jogged my memory -
Is there anything special you need to do to inspect the spherical bushes / is it obvious when they become worn?
I also do the some poly, some spherical and it might be the case that I've had some spherical bushes for maybe 5 years? without any thought/maintenance/they haven't been touched since installed....
I've always associated worn bushes with clunking noises, so no clunk, no issue, but I'm guessing this isn't actually best practice lol.
-
1
-
-
1 hour ago, morboost said:
have noted that, but qld regs on this would be the same as other states could be wrong I only know vic and nsw
Having moved from NSW to QLD, I can tell you that QLD rego is wayyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy easier to sort. It's not even close.
My R33 is mod plated, everything is listed, I couldn't believe how easy and pain free the process was compared to the NSW engineering process (which I have also gone through previously and is not a fun experience).
-
2
-
-
2 hours ago, morboost said:
can anyone explain how motive seams to always be driving his r32 on road with harness, fixed back seats with a rear seat, is the car not really regoed and he get away with trader plates or rally rego or no f's given?
Heaps of ways you could do it. Lets assume its not just zero f's given.
Plan out the route with a mate. Have your mate drive in front of you, say about 1km ahead. If they spot a RBT site/defect station/highway patrol hiding by the side of the road, your mate calls you. You see the call come in and you pull over straight away. Find a side street to turn off or do a U-turn etc. If your super paranoid have a car follow behind to spot any highway cars on approach so you can quickly turn into a side street etc.
For sure he would have enough mates/community resources to be able to pull this off with ease.
Having said that, what I think is actually happening is, he knows the areas he is driving in. He knows there are never RBT sites set up there and just keeps an eye out for police/highway cars and picks his moments for when he is going to do a pull.
-
1
-
-
Yeah, that harness really does scream, please defect me!
For anyone wondering, you can use a harness on the road but it needs to automatically retract the same way the stock seatbelt retracts (and I'm assuming its a quality harness that is installed correctly). Still needs to be signed off by an engineer, but it would be easy to get signed off on (this is for NSW in any case).
-
15 minutes ago, Wazmond said:
I 'dont need' a wideband do I?
Umm I suppose technically you don't "need" one.
I wouldn't even consider running a car without one though. Also if you get a decent ECU, you'll want to use the wideband o2 settings and engine protection. Also in this day and age, I would only use a CAN based wideband.
-
1
-
-
Hmm... looks like this is an unpopular opinion but it's what I did.
I don't see any issue with tuning the car yourself. So, from base map to 99% sorted, all by yourself with tuning on road. Then once you're happy you can't improve the tune any further, take the car to the dyno and get the timing dialled in. You'll probably only need to pay for an hour of dyno time and the car will be amazing.
My primary method of learning to tune was from Evans Performance Academy. They are nice enough to hand out all of their content for $50USD, can't beat that value. If there were any knowledge gaps, I'd see if there was a HP academy webinar coving the topic, if I was still stuck I'd hit up Haltech and their amazing tech's would help me get it sorted (I fkn love Haltech and their tech guys).
I think you'll know pretty quick if this is something you want to do/want to learn to do. If you are keen to learn and are sensible in your approach, I don't think there is any risk with doing all the tuning on your car yourself.
-
Are you doing this solely as a cost saving measure?
I imagine future you will be rather annoyed saving a whole $1,000 on pistons when you find yourself wanting more power in future. The engine build won't be cheap regardless of the pistons used so it seems silly not to just do it properly first go.
-
@[SKYHI] Did you log any data?
-
3 hours ago, R33ss said:
I want to buy an r33 I’m looking at but I am on ps, and it is a gts-t, is there anyway I can take the turbo off and drive the car I don’t mind putting in the work to be able to make it go just wanted to see if it’s possible, and would it need to be tuned again
You might find that even if you jump through all of these hoops, spend a mountain of cash to un-turbo your car, that you still get defected/ticketed by the cops anyway.
The system shows your car is a prohibited vehicle. They aren't mechanics, they are police. You telling them "I know its a turbo skyline, but trust me officer, I took the turbo off". Probably won't get you very far.
If your unlucky, now you've got a very expensive ticket to fight at court. Say you take it to court, the magistrate asks you, is the vehicle you were driving on the list of prohibited vehicles? You see where I'm going with this....
-
14 minutes ago, R33tur said:
But are they correct in saying that it works with standard ecu
Going off GTS and the website, seems like the dwell times are a close enough of match that they will run.
When the PRP site says, "to maximise performance use the dwell data that can be found on our web page" so I guess they are admitting that the factory ECU dwell settings aren't 100% match for what the coils want but yeah, it seems that its close enough that the car will run.
At the end of the day, sounds like you need coils and I can almost 100% guarantee that at some stage in the future you will want an aftermarket ECU.... So, its fine either way? You'll end up buying both at some stage lol.
-
From what I can see -
No coils, $771
Coils included, $1477
-
Would something like this fit under the driver/passenger seat?
Might not need to worry about a standalone amp this way as well. Just run the speakers from the headunit and the sub is self powered.
-
1
-
-
5 hours ago, [SKYHI] said:
What program will i need on the laptop ?
With all your Haltech sensors, I'm guessing you also have a Haltech ECU?
Grab the right software for your ECU from here.
https://www.haltech.com/downloads/
Here is a nice little quick start guide. When you setup the data logger, you can just log every channel to keep things easy.
-
1
-
-
4 minutes ago, R33tur said:
Standard from what I can tell, the car was shipped to me and I've found it all to be in a big mess, we've come to find alot missing and stuff mixed up, looks to have been an ex track car, maybe set up for drifting. We think a bigger turbo and front mount intercooler previously, turning in to a massive headache.
I was hoping you were going to say you have an aftermarket ECU.
So, personally I wouldn't buy a R35 coil kit without already having an aftermarket ECU. I would be concerned about dwell time settings that the R35 coils want, might not match up with the original coils dwell time. With the aftermarket ECU you can set the dwell times so happy days. Stock ECU... not so much.
I don't know how many people out there would be running $1000 worth of coil kit on a stock ECU, so dunno if anyone can personally confirm that it runs well on the stock ECU?
-
31 minutes ago, R33tur said:
Do I need anything else to do this conversion? 🤔
What ECU are you using?
-
2 hours ago, [SKYHI] said:
Yeah it has the full haltech catalogue of sensors it's booked into jem mid next month so I can get more info from them just need to get a new muffler and resonator fitted before then looking at the sp mufflers 4" inlet muffler and res
You could go for a drive, plug in a laptop and log data. If you upload the data here, that would answer a lot of questions.
-
All good mate. No need to worry about actually hitting the 100 km mark, just zero out your trip meter the next time you fill up. Then whenever you decide to refill again, fill up the tank and post up how much fuel you used and the km driven.
As for burning 54L/100km, I'd be amazed if that was the actual figure. If that was real, that is batshit crazy rich and I'm amazed the car runs well. We really need the actual numbers to be able to give proper feedback.
Do you have a wideband o2 sensor in the car? Can you tell us what your cruising AFR's are like?
-
1
-
-
Life is easier for everyone if you use L / 100 km.
What is your cruising AFR's like? Are we talking highway or around town fuel economy?
-
Would you consider using a dye and UV light to trace the leak?
-
I'll just leave this here -
-
The bride website is pretty good for playing machy machy with their seats/rails.
https://bride-jp.com/en/seatrail/
-
1
-
Should you buy cheap Chinese tyres?
in General Automotive Discussion
Posted
This is a pretty good visual for what we are talking about