Murray_Calavera
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Posts posted by Murray_Calavera
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Did you measure the original part you removed for comparison?
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1 hour ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:
Euro 4 or 5 or 6 spec?
I'm heading down the same path (soon), however might do a 3" AES valve to bypass the cat/mid muffler and join back to the rear muffler if post turbine pressure creeps up.
Similar to this:
i.e. no Western Sydney GT-R mode
If you get a chance to do before/after dyno runs when you throw the real cats in I would be super keen to see the results
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BCPR7ES. I change them every 20,000 kms.
A search will probably dig up quite a few threads on what spark plugs to use.
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Yeah, I'm betting a combination of fuel pump is positioned higher then the factory pump and the filter/sock is shorter then the factory sock.
Have a look at the frenchys performance garage hanger setup, they generally position the fuel pump nice and low so would be a good comparison for however you set your pump up.
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1 hour ago, soviet_merlin said:
I then also wonder is how it's handled in modern performance cars. Because surely they have to conform to all the current emissions rules.
That is a good point.
The closest thing I can think of is this episode of Might Car Mods, where they made 425KW with the exhaust valve closed, then opened the valve and made the same 425KW. (around 19 min into the video).
I would think having the exhaust valve closed would be more restrictive then say going from 100 to 300 cell cat? But yeah I'm still guessing.
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Has anyone seen dyno runs back to back while cats were swapped to see their impact? I would strongly consider putting in a better cat (I'm using 100 cell too) if I could be sure it wasn't having a large impact on performance.
Side note, @Dose Pipe Sutututu what are your thoughts on building a 1 series 135i? The entry price seems pretty reasonable for the earlier models and look like a pretty good base to start working from. (But then again I don't know anything about BWM's and I'm basing this off looking at a spec sheet and car sales prices lol)
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5 hours ago, flying fridge said:
20kgs is the spare tire alone almost lol.
So what you think, what weight reduction down from 1720kg is possible without ruining the car?What a fantastic idea for a street car. Why don't you also bin the air conditioning, heater core and all their associated parts as well? You might almost find another 20kgs there too!
If it is a street car, I don't think there is any realistic way to reduce the weight in a meaningful way while still retaining pleasant street manners. The OEM wasn't trying to add weight for fun, they don't like weight either - yet the car you have is the best they could manage while still being a pleasant street car.
If your reason for lowering the weight is to improve performance, then just do that. Add power, sort the suspension and run the stickiest tyres you're prepared to live with.
An R35 GTR probably weighs more then your car... Probably performs a little bit better too.
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14 minutes ago, Stick180 said:
The RSV is 1520kg wet. The majority of the extra bulk in the RS4S and 260RS is in the driveline.
That would make a lot more sense. If that car that the OP linked there was a NA RWD Stagea, the weight reduction numbers would line up perfectly, a whole 20kgs of interior removed brining the car to 1500kgs.
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Has all the obvious stuff been done, wheel nuts are tight, you've put the car on jack stands and given the wheels a good shake and inspected all the suspension components to ensure everything is nice and tight?
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Just now, flying fridge said:
See I know that it‘s possible to pull that amount of weight out since a guy already did it. He stripped the whole interior completely and got to 1500kgs but lost all driving comfort since going to the extreme.
I don’t want to go that extreme as he did.
I wonder if it‘s possible to achive the 1500kgs if putting in some serious cash for carbon/titanium/Aluminium items (doors, bonnet, tailgate, driveshaft, brakes), maybe change the tailgate and rear cargo and rear seat windows to polycarbonate etc etc
If you stripped out the entire interior, and I mean everything, it would not even weigh 220kgs. Whoever this 'guy' is that claims to have achieved 1500kg while still having you know, a dash and at least a drivers seat, is clearly full of $hit.
So rather then just referring to some 'guy', I'll talk from personal experience.
I stripped my swift down to a dash and driver / front passenger seat. When you look up, bare metal. When you look down, bare metal, when you look back, bare metal everywhere. It saved fk all weight. I weighed stuff as it came out. I saved maybe 20kgs? Turns out plastic trim pieces and foam seats don't weigh much. Go figure. Sound deadening and carpet was around 10kgs.
My R33 is half stripped. Everything from the driver/front passenger seat is stock. Look over your shoulder, everything in the back is bare metal. The only reason I did this was to fit a half cage and make adjusting the rear coilovers easier. I had learnt from my previous experience that there is fk all weight to be removed from inside the car and it is not worth doing.
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Just as a visual. When you turn this -
Into this -
You save about 300kgs.
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12 minutes ago, flying fridge said:
The goal would be to land around at 1400-1500kg if that‘s possible, so we’re talking about what I consider a normal weight for a sporty car.
I guess that should be possible to achive, don’t need to go crazy like 1200kgs.So you want to pull 220kg to 320kg worth of material out of the car? That is an absolutely huge range, kinda like saying you want to make somewhere between 400kw to 1500kw from the motor.
As you start to pull weight out of the car, every next kg gets harder and more expensive to achieve.
Even on your conservative, 220kg weight reduction goal, it's 100% not realistic. Even if you said you were happy to spend $100,000 to achieve that goal it wouldn't happen... Unless you turn it into a death kart. Then sure I'm sure you'll find 220-320kgs of material to cut out.
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Absolute worst case, you could ship your box of parts to a specialist workshop over here who you can be confident will do a good job.
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It would be so much cheaper to just buy an evo or similar light weight car. Removing weight to the point that it is noticeable in the way the car drives will be an eye watering expense.
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Have you not read the ecu wiring diagram/pinout?
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8 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:
Here's a lap with my mate driving the shit box, he hasn't driven it in about 5 years (since Wakefield days - had better tyres then, less power, however was lower and had softer springs).
Can you overlay his/your data with the Garmin to see where you are losing time?
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7 minutes ago, JayJay777 said:
okay first of all.. youre right, cant even deny on that. but yeah i get it now and its all kind of clicking into place now, thank you. is the high flow something youd actually recommend or do you think that maybe a different turbo might be the way to go? always looking for more opinions on what direction i should go with my build.
That is a super open question, really comes down to your goals and budget.
It's very easy to say buy an Artec manifold and a Garrett G series turbo, but unless your happy to spend about $6,000 on those 2 parts alone, well your not going to get very far lol.
Maybe have a look at RB25 turbo results thread for inspiration.
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7 minutes ago, JayJay777 said:
ah okay, this is why i need you rb geniuses to help me out haha, im very new to the engine and have spent the last 4 years working with EJ's so i feel very out of my depth here haha.
im just going of what ive been told by the mechanic ive gone to, hes been really trustworthy and has always shown me whats wrong before recommending i replace something, so perhaps ive misunderstood him.
i saw someone how did say that you could bend the rod but youd be missing about 10mm worth of length which is required, how true this is? not sure, again just what ive heard.
as on the topic of oem or aftermarket, i was thinking id just get aftermarket now as i do intend to put a high flow turbo on it at some point down the track and though i may as well get the better wastegate now rather than later, thoughts?
We are talking about fitting an aftermarket part, you do what is needed to make it work. If the rod needs a bend, bend it. If it's the wrong length, get the correct length rod. If you don't want to do any of this, pay for a kit that is bolt on - https://gcg.com.au/actuator-assembly-nissan-rb20det-rb25det-billet-dual-port-xtrwga-bdp-rb25.html
Obviously though that kit is for the stock turbo, you change the turbo you'll need to change the wastegate setup to suit the new turbo.
As for what wastegate you should get, the only real reason for getting the Turbosmart wastegate is to be able to change your base spring pressure. There is a very strong chance you'll never need to do that.
Lets say you buy a Hypergear high flow turbo and you want to run about 18psi. You can tick the box for the higher pressure actuator and that's it. You don't even need a boost controller and you have your 18psi.
Say you want some adjustment. You buy the same Hypergear high flow turbo, but this time you get a 14.7psi wastegate spring. With a 3 port MAC valve you could theoretically take the boost up to about 30psi with that setup. Not happy with that range of adjustment? You could get a 7psi wastegate spring, use a 4 port MAC valve and take the boost up to about 30psi. So now you can run anything between 7psi and 30psi without changing your wastegate spring.
My advice is if you don't know why you want to change the wastegate base spring pressure, don't buy the expensive Turbosmart wastegate. Have a think about what the min and max boost levels you would like to run, then buy a wastegate/spring/MAC valve that supports that goal.
If I had a crystal ball, I'd probably see you buying a Hypergear turbo, using their high pressure actuator, using an aftermarket ECU and a 3 port MAC valve for boost control.
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25 minutes ago, JayJay777 said:
yeah stock turbo.. i think?
well when i first got the car it was pretty sluggish and felt like a boat, i did a few thing like cleaning the maf and tightening some hoses and it went up to about 8 pounds of boost, which im pretty sure is still low even from factory but do correct me if im wrong, but now its gone back down to 5 pounds of boost.
with the wastegate did you have to modify it at all? cause ive seen a lot of the stock wastegates have rods with bends in them whereas the only turbo smart ones i can see at first glance have straight ones.
Sounds like there is some shenanigans going on with the boost control solenoid. The wastegate spring is 5psi and the factory boost control solenoid takes it up to 7psi when over 4500rpm.
I would be very surprised if the play in the wastegate was causing these issues. Not enough preload on the wastegate generally just means a bit more lag and doesn't impact on the overall boost level.
The universal kit comes with a straight rod, vehicle specific kits will come with a bent rod if required. Have a look at the IWG75 kits to suit an evo for an example.
My wastegate isn't on the stock turbo though, so my setup won't be the same as yours. I'm using the straight actuator rod, but if you need a kink in the rod for your setup, this can be solved in about 5 seconds with a vice and a hammer.
Having said that, I don't think there is much value in putting this wastegate on the stock turbo. If the wastegate failed, you'd just replace it with another stock one. The reason for running the Turbosmart wastegate is to have more control over the boost levels, but with the stock turbo you'd never run it over about 10psi anyway and the stock wastegate will allow you to run that very easily with a boost controller.
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So you have the stock rb25 turbo?
So I'm guessing what the guy was trying to tell you is the wastegate doesn't have enough preload on it. Have a look at this video to see what I'm talking about.
When you say you've got issues with the boost dropping off, how much boost are you running and how low does it get in the top end?
As for what I'm using, I use a Turbosmart IWG75 on a Hypergear turbo.
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@The Bogan Sir, your dataz are ready. I included oil and coolant pressures as well because why not lol.
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Hopefully after the TCU is installed you won't feel the need for a 3rd set of wheels.
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What ECU are you going to use?
Are you going to install all of the supporting mods yourself and then pay a workshop to tune it?
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On 6/30/2023 at 7:46 PM, The Bogan said:
The issue is finding someone to install it for me
#menoskillz
Would you be interested in picking up those skills? It's not hard, it's just a practice makes perfect thing and having good quality crimping tools makes an insane difference.
I feel pretty confident that we could talk you through what tools you'll need, how to get this bad boy wired up and tuned.
Dose's Sometimes DIY and Pay Someone Home & Boat Improvement Thread
in Projects, Overhauls and Build-ups
Posted
If you think your local water is bad, I pray you never experience bore water in an outback town lol.