kristafa

all parts were taken away this afternoon. thanks for quick responses guys. chris.

Looks like somebody is coming up from gold coast to grab this stuff.. he said he'll pickup tomorrow (thanks Dion), but i'll advise in this thread if it falls through. .:chris:.

PS. Algester (south brisbane)

COME GET IT, FIRST IN FIRST SERVED i have the shell of a r32 front cut left over from a conversion i need removed from my property.. if somebody comes and takes it away, i'll give them all my left overs from my conversion, some stuff has been sold separately, so pretty much what i mention here is all that's left: * dash in good condition (with vents in perfect condition) * a/c pump * brake booster/master cyl * stock air box * stock intercooler + some piping/hoses * steering wheel (usable, but visibly poor condition from having other front cuts stacked on it) * steering column with levers, ignition barrel and keys * a/c blower fan (still mounted in the front cut) * radiator clutch fan * box of leftovers including some interior pieces that might be useful to somebody -> (cluster surround/gearboot/console surround SOLD already) * full E36 BMW exhaust (with chrome tip!!!) Not interested in separating parts, just come with your trailer ready to take everything The front cut had 87,000kms on it, so most parts are good condition.. you'll need a box trailer to take away the front cut. Also, trying to SELL a speedo (blue dials, with the abovementioned 87kms on it) for $80 (OR, make an offer). thanks, CHRIS>0422933217.

hey good work on that tiff, bet it feels like it has balls now eh? i should have put a 25 in the bm, but $$$!!

you should be able to tighten up that 'grub screw' with a 1/2" drive ratchet.. try loosen it off first then tighten it.. it's the drain plug for the gearbox - if you drain the box completely, put some locktite on the thread to stop future leaks. -chris.

i'm lost for words

about 11k for the bimmer (had high km's on it), owes about 20k as it sits now.. i would have bought a r32 but i'm a bit too tall (6'4"), the r33's are a bit too ugly (personal opinion, please dont sent me a parcel bomb), and the r34's were a bit too pricey. so i'm happy with it now.. 'cept i want some more power i think

full respray, you might as well choose another color while your at it... seriously though i know what its like to have a scratch or dent.. seems like it cant be hidden and everyone is looking at it..

As title says, needed asap please - my car is running 10:1's and costs shit loads in fuel. chris - 0422 933 217

Thanks mate - they're OZ Racing 18's.. quite fitting for the euro style cars. The kerb weight of the standard 318i is 1380kg from memory.. not much heavier than the r32 (which is 1320??). mind you the new motor probably weighs a bit more than what was taken out.. wanna take it to weigh bridge to find out what i'm lugging around. Handles real good, i always loved how this car handled (just wasn't too quick).. the bmw's steering and suspension is quite good considering it's meant to be a family car.

would be nice to finally meet ya'll.. pending a successful fix of my oil pressure problem this afternoon. count me in 51%. hope the beer is cold there. chris.

box included? where you located?

hey i have the whole stock cooler and pipes (missing some clamps and hoses i think...) pm me if interested. i'm in brisbane city.

Good news all - conversion finally completed (as of about 3 weeks ago.. have been a bit slack in posting progress photos Thanks to my good mate Bubs for all his fab work - he's a master craftsman with the mig (let me know if anybody needs ANY fab work done.. everything is high quality cnc plasma cut and machine folded for that factory appearance) his fab work included: custom engine mounts using new heavy duty mounts from a MQ Patrol custom front sump (for clearance of the bmw crossmember) + custom oil pickup custom intercooler piping, mandrel bends custom transmission crossmember 3" 2 piece turbo back exhaust, mandrel bends custom sway bar mounts custom radiator and intercooler mounts Other mods: 450x300 cooler DBA slotted and crossdrilled rotors autometer/autogauge gauges turbo timer apexi pod mitsubishi cordia washer bottle Hilux rad overflow bottle 32 gtr radiator 3" one piece driveshaft from the guys at Hardy Spicer glovebox mounted fire extinguisher! Sacrifices: no more abs (abs unit was about 2mm from the turbo) no more dual zone climate control (maybe i'll change my mind on a 40degree day) 6 cyl rego 6 cyl fuel economy + rear tyres my wallet feels noticibly lighter after this project... We didn't do too much between July and September, but we turned up the heat in october and had it done in about 4 weeks (mainly after hours and weekends). Wiring didnt cause too much grief (once we found the right documentation), and project still has a few more tweaks before it replaces my daily driver (speedo, power steering, etc) Car drives like it's got it's nuts in a vice, noticible improvement over the factory 1.8Lt auto!! Future improvements include: r33 s2 turbo, S-AFC Neo, EBC, HD clutch, M3 LSD thanks all, comments and questions welcome. Chris.

The 040 is much louder than the original gts-t fuel pump- you will notice it running from now on. Does your car still start/run and fix the lean issue?? If you haven't fitted an anti-syphon valve then you will get fuel feeding back to the pump when it's off, and possibly air in your lines. When you first put your car's key onto ignition, it will prime the fuel pump for a few seconds, this puts fuel upto the fuel rail.. if you have a leak in your fuel feed hose, you'll notice when you turn the car on that fuel will be pissing out of that area because the line is under pressure. i wouldn't worry about it unless there is an obvious sign of leakage or failure.

bump - has to be sold.. will lower price for interested buyer

what's the retail price on one of these? selling with the box? what power handling?... interested...

PM SENT...

$150 (offers considered, fast sale wanted), 87,000kms, see my ad in the general classifieds section: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=142302 thanks all, chris.

This turbo has seen 87,000 kms.. came in a front cut for my bmw conversion, which just by chance has log books too (in some foreign language)! includes: compressor-side elbow does not include: flange gasket (manifold side or dump pipe side) wastegate actuator water lines oil lines the oil/water line bolts (i'm sure they're not called bolts.. but you get the idea) Reason for Sale: i'm upgrading to a r33 s2 unit Price: $150 pickup, Or nearest offer add $200 for flights to come pickup (subject to flight availability) Pickup from where?: Pickup from East Brisbane (near Wooloongabba) or Jimboomba (at the workshop where it's currently at) PIC: it looks like a r32 turbo that's done 87,000kms

let me know if anyone in the brisbane area has a good condition rb25 turbo and elbow that they want to sell.. i want one asap.. thanks.chris.

gday folks, how about this weather? anyway just dumped an rb20det into my 3 series.. everything completely stock except for fmic, 3" turbo back exhaust and walbro fuel pump (one of the high pressure in tank ones.. not sure of the exact properties). When the motor was running in the front cut off my dodgy bmw-pump-in-a-bucket test, it started perfect everytime and was very responsive. i suspect having the added pressure of the fuel pump, when i crank the motor over when it's cold, i'm seeing too much fuel go in, and it hesitates for about 10 seconds (or less) before sitting smootly at idle (like when a carby motor get's 'flooded'. I also notice that it doesn't rev up as fast as i remember (granted the setup is a bit laggier than before having the bigger cooler and piping). Can anybody suggest a quick fix for this problem? does it sound like it's getting too much fuel? i think having it run rich has stuffed my o2 sensor coz my a/f ratio gauge is going crazy all the time. Thick soot also noted in the exhaust after a short drive. muchos gracias amigo's.. chris.

i find it hard to believe that autometer marks these gauges as "not for use with wideband oxygen sensors" and sells them knowing that they aren't useful. If the 02 sensors output voltage drops to 0 volts, i would see that it's running lean, right? so it would be doing its job in that sense...

so your engine is cranking? i know a few things: if there's not much charge in the battery you can have problems with starting/smooth idling (even though the motor turns over) if you have problems with your alarm (with immobiliser) then depending on how your immobiliser is setup you wont get power to various places (fuel pump, ecu, ignition, etc...) i'd be making sure i get ecu power by checking out the led on the unit (on when key is IGN position), making sure the fuel pump is flowing fuel to the fuel rail when the motor is turning over, get the immobiliser situation sussed out by whoever installed it...