cheez

it only damages ur engine if any parts of the turbo drop back into the egine through the exhaust manifold when it blows but as a daily drive stay off boost... drive as lightly as possible and if u have a boost tap, wind it up so no boost is made. thats a safe way to stop doing any damage, but on the other hand this could be the perfect time to get a new turbo? something ball bearing..

yeh i do mate. working 787 line at the moment but been around the factory. all over the shop during my apprenticeship.

4th year Apprentice aircraft structures fabricator work for boeing basically fabricating components for new aircraft, as well as learning how to do c/f and f/g repairs, wet lay ups and anything structurally based to do with aircraft. good job, learnt heaps, and put it into practise with some back yard f/g work. harder to do c/f work cos the shit to expensive.

yeh that was me mate. hope she enjoyed it.!!

how many do u need? have a friend who might not be coming so i might just have the 1 spare ticket. ill let u know if u only need 1.

in my old 33 i ran a 32 actuator at 10psi. they straight swap into the 33 and the only thing i did was ground out my standard solenoid to have it run consistently at 10psi. if the solenoid was still connected ran 7 then 10 after 4.5k rpm. in my 34 now i have the 32 actuator and same situation a the 33 i am running 10psi

is the 3037 an external gated turbo or does it use internal gate? if its external then just block the old line to the ecu and use the spring in the gate to dictate the boost. i fits internal gate still block the lines from the olsd solenoid and use just 1 line from the gate to the plenum if i remembered right. eiether way the old solenoid isnt needed. btw if it is internal gate worth spending some money on the hks adjustable actuator. hope that helps you out a bit

post a pic of the trailer light assembly. i cant exactly remember how i did it but once i see it it will come back to me. might help me to to be able to see the wiring harness from the the car indicators too.

Stock R34 rims are 17x6.5. they are 5x114.3.

+45 is for a NA R33. if its the gtst, ur offset is +37 or there abouts. if u wanna know the exact offset, check the back of ur stock rims. it will have it embossed there.

hope to make it dow there mate.. see how i travel for time.

big flares i reckon. rolling wont be enough considering standard 33 wheels are +35 to +42 or something around that. to go to a -19... geez u might as well not have guards on the car. lol

i got the phillips crystal vision high beams that came with a blue/white light for parkers. could be an option if u still have standard yellow high beams. the zenons are a white, i had standard yellow so the change was so i could have matching colour high beams and parkers. cost like $80 from autobahn or something

yeh ill be in for that. its been so long since i raced

hey guys, im not going to be able to make it 2nyt, work has just infrmed me that im gonna be needed til about 8pm, you guys are more than welcome to still go down and have a drag there, weathr will be good, and im sure if i can ill organise another nyt and piss work off for the day. sorry again

the rajab racing hood is the standard r33 hood with a fibreglass xr8 bulge fibreglassed on to it and smoothed in. looks tough in my opinion.

$25. thtas the spectator fee last time i went. unfortunatly i might not be able to make it down, will depend on work now. if i can get out of it ill be down for sure but will confirm everything on thursay.

here is a pic of mine. was as impulsive, took 5hrs and 2 sessions. $280. woody at planet ink in epping did it for me. reason: being italian and religious, i thought that something like this i wouldnt regret. btw, 2nd tat on the way. once its done ill post (Its on my right shoulder too.)

still for sale guys... bump

ultimate auto trims, they do it but in dandenong, closest place for you that i can think of

my 1 fitted good, i actually cut the reo and did the fit up myself. all that is needed with the reo is a slot cut in the reo for the n1 slots and shave about 1 inch off the vents. to close the gap on the head lights, all i did was make the front 2 reo holes oval so u could change the angle of the reo, by doing this i pitched the reo up higher and when u fitted the bar on it sat with no gap at all. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Gr...;hl=trial+front check that thread out, should help you out a bit

price dropped.. first post edited adjustable: $120 + post non adjustable : $100 + post

bump

ei nick u gonna go? im thinking bout taking the 34 out for a spin

hey guys, have some strut braces that i bought for a group of people, but they never collected them so i can sell them to get my money back 4-5-6-7: ALL ADJUSTABLE 1-2-3-8: NOT ADJUSTABLE Price: Adjustable type any of the 4 : $130each Non Adjustable type either again : $110each. pick up from reservoir melb. please call or pm if interested. i also reply to sms. cheers daniel 0423 089 477