Vovan

yeah, drifting on public roads are the craziest thing you can do three days ago i hit a wall on my R33 when going through the turn... i went that turn hell alot of times already, but that day something happened - don't remember what, but the car suddenly started to go left and right (rear)... guess i pushed the accel too hard. now it will cost me about $600 to repair everything..

Phat Mr30, what does this mean in your signuter "Can't spin em?? ..... CLUTCH IT!" ?

yes

Zex is better than NOS comparing price/quality (though depending on what NOS you use). ZEX can work good on small N2O pressure, which can't do NOS (i mean cheap systems). of course, there are good NOS systems, but they cost a lot... It's sure better to buy direct port system, but are you sure that your stock engine will handle it?

anyone knows? i'm planning to make my own titanium exhaust manifold

ZEX kit (wet), up to 125 additional hp. quite easy to install and it conrtols A/F ratio automatically

but aren't the stock fuel pump push the max amount of fuel that stock injectors can handle?

Mobil here (in Russia) is of a VERY bad quality... maybe it's russian mafia who spoils good oil and selling fake instead of original anyway, 0w40 is too liquid for turbo cars (imho), as the temperatures are much higher in tubro cars and this oil can just dissappear in some parts of the engine and all the pulleys (or gears - forgot the right word) will work without oil film... that happened to my engine with Shell 5w40 - my turbine started to switch off under heavy boost...

if not upgrading fuel regulator? as the stock one is still configured for stock pressure. or will the computer increase the pressure itself when needed? i'm also confused about the following: large pump and increased pressure - this means the mixture is rich, and will be rich untill we reach high boost, so under the 4500 revs the mixture will be very rich? or the ECU will control it and we change only MAX fuel pressure by adjusting fuel regulator?

yes, in the trunk. it's quite hard to get it out of there

the problem will be in making top feed rail for gtst

if the solenoid is open all the time you will get uncontrolable boost.. - damage to engine..

i gues you can define your sensor type by voltage. it's described in docs. don't remember how.

is there a way to make bigger injectors from stock? i'm looking for a cheap way of upgrading my injectors

where is the stock fuel regulator located?

that's one... is there a stock fuel pressure regulator? can it (pressure) be adjusted?

guys, i noticed you buy adjustable actuators and boost controllers, but here is a $1 solution how to manage your boost up to what your engine can handle: the point is to give your actuator and stock solenoid false data (false boost pressure) . f.i. you want to have boost 1.0, but stock actuator will open it's valve at 0.6 - 0.7... so in stock - 1.0 will never be reached. actuator - is a mechanical valve. so, what we do is - unplug the little tube that goes from the main tube from intercooler to your engine. that tube is short and located near the air filter box. there will also be the T look iron tube that goes to solenoid and actuator. so, unplug that little tube and see inside - there you will see a small JET. this jet is configured for 0.6-0.7 bar boost. what you need to do is to find smaller jet and replace the old one. that way less air will go through this tube to actuator and solenoid and actuator will think that the boost is still low and will not open it's valve. but actual boost will be higher. you can check it with your boost meter. this is the way how ALL boost controllers work - they just cheat the valves. but not with jets, they just through the air into the atmoshpere (decreasing the boost at actuator) i was going to buy HKS actuator that will handle 0.8-0.9 for about $120 US, but after little thinking decided not to buy it - because to my mind there is just a stronger spring that opens the valve a bit later.. that's it.. btw, i still bought AVCR becuase it can set boost by RPMs and i don't plan to drive all day on over boost and don't want to go and change jets all the time but it is still a good solution for people who just start and want to try what increased boost is.

i've found out that different oils with same specs act differently. i used Shell 5w40 (the worst oil - doesn't keep with load), Castrol 10w60 - quite good and it looks like my turbine likes it and Hassol 5w40 - same quality as Castrol, but MUCH cheaper (use it now).... though i want to try Motul oil, once it will be delivered here. heard it's good

the car idles fine with air filter, but once i remove it - revs start jumping. but engine never stalls. maybe it's becuase more air is coming in and ECU do not control fuel when idling?? but i think that air flow increase is very very little without air filter. confused again did you notice anything similar to this on your car, Boostd? btw, what is TPS?

i was going to clean AFM when i noticed that my air tube (the one that goes to my turbo) is full of dust, mud and probably oil - all this is mixed in there.... then i took off all pipes that goes in and out of intercooler - they all had oil in them... is it normal? i guess it's not. my AIR filter looks ok... air tubes is without cracks, i don't understand how all that mud got in there... is there a way to clean all the pipes? i guess all this mud gets into the engine too also, when i remove AIR filter when the car is running (idle) the engine's revs start to jump and engine works unstable... i guess dirty pipes are the reason of this?

the best drag strip here is - airport we don't have any private drag strips noone has here... all competions go in the airport - they have good drag strips

i'm intrested too

?

thanks alot

guys, i'm confused (or drunk ) about A/F ratios... f.i. - 10 to 1 - rich or lean? and 20 to 1 - rich or lean? f.i. if A/F ratio is 12. is it 12 Qxygen and 1 fuel or otherwise?