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R32 wastegate can is 10psi

T04/T3 Um 58mm front wheel, T04B front cover 3inch inlet, RX7 Core, RX7 steel wheel different T3 exhaust housing. On a mild tune 252rwhp (189rwkw) 11psi boost. Wanna run 15psi, maybe get 300rwhp?

Yea rumours........ I had to get a new thermostat in mine as it took to long to warm up! Never had any drama's, allthough I upgraded the R32 radiator with a thicker core so that may have something to do with it.

When I converted my 180sx from CA to RB I actually upgraded the RB radiator. I heard after I started the conversion that there could be overheating drama's. So I took the RB radiator down to ARE and got them to fit the thickest core into the RB's tanks. I run a push-pull thermo fan setup. A 14inch thermo fan on the front pushes air through the air con condensor and a 10 inch thermo pulls the air through the radiator. I have never had a problem with mine, in fact I had to get a new thermostat as mine was stuck open and it took ages (5-6km's) for it to get to operating temp's! Upgrading the radiator cost me $450

Here are some links for you, I will be using the 8.9:1 pistons as I think being in the later model 4AGZE's they are probably a better piston.......I think http://www.club4ag.com/faq%20and%20tech_pa...A-GZE_specs.htm http://forums.toymods.org.au/index.php?t=m...rt=0#msg_341861 Good luck! Pete

Hey thanks for the reply! After chatting a bit with sydneykid, he has recommended the 8.9:1. The car is my everyday car, I will probably only run 15psi. The turbo I have is To4/T3, microtech LTX12, bigger injectors, FMIC dual dump, K&N airpod for the engine department. The engine is getting re-rebuilt and no I am not stuttering. This engine did 2000km's. What the engine builder arsed up 1/miss-aligned cams (both 2-3 teeth) he couldn't diagnose (car idled had no power) so I sent elsewhere I told them it had just been rebuilt, they diagnosed ECU hense microtech. After the car still was not right they found the cam problems. 2/3 standard turbos destroyed before low oil pressure was found to be the problem, cause sealant in the oil pump and pick up. Got GTR N1 oil pump fitted 3/Main bearings upside down, the centre one with the thrust in/on it. effect stuffed crank and bearings is all I hope. The engine builder at first refused to pay because he said I supplied the bearings (which he fitted and passed). The car went elsewhere where the bearings were found to be upside down. He then backed down and said he would pay for rebuild. His old man got involved (his business) and said crank and bearings only. He said they didn't offer warranty as I was involved with the conversion (fitting fuel pump, thermo's organising loom etc) allthough I had nothing to do with the engine apart from polishing and painting stuff. A proper engine builder has it now (not just a mechanic but someone who that is all he does is rebuild engines), he said a strip down just to ensure there is no metal etc laying around. The original rebuilders old man refused that, as he looked and saw nothing in the block (um what about the head etc?). My turbo (lucky it is a bushed turbo!) had to be rebuilt as the bearings/bushes got rapped, they were burned and scored. So far I have spent $6k+ (not including this rebuild) fixing this fella's stuff ups. That is why I am considering rebuilding the engine this way. It may as of yet get a standard rebuild with just new conrod, mains and headbolts (possibly ARP). I am only checking my avenues. The car before the mains were found, made 252rwhp on 11psi boost. sorry for the long post....... Pete

I am considering rebuilding my RB20 as a RB22/23. Now I know what I need in the block (RB25 crank, rods and 4AGZE pistons). But does any headwork need to be done? What headgasket to use? I could option to O'ring the block and use a copper type gasket this would cost approx. less than $180 for O'ringing (the rebuilder told me he does V8's for $180) and say $200 for the headgasket. Is this what folks do? Any help is appreciated. Oh and how much should I pay for 4AGZE pistons? Also which ones 8:0.1 or 8:9.1? there are 2 types apparently according to toymods. Thanks Pete

If you are in QLD, I know ARE repair intercoolers.....

Another bearing failure is this one. Having the engine rebulder put the centre bearing (the one with the thrust) upside down. So the bearing with the hole in it is in the crank girdle. This tore up the rear face on that journal....Oh well re-rebuild time.

Thanks again for the replies! It is very much appreciated! I am really asking because this engine was rebuilt by a fella and now within 2000km's has poo'ed itself! The crank has 2-3mm end float/play! I was asking in case he TRIED telling me I hooked the oil catch can wrong and has pressurised the sump therefore destroying the bottom end. It does not surprise me as 1/He almost fitted the wrong inlet manifold gasket but spotted this as he had to take the inlet manifold off again to fit the coolant distribution hoses/pipes. 2/Managed to forget to install the dipstick untill I picked it up off the bench and asked who's it was, the engine was in the car. 3/Miss-align the cams by 2 teeth retarded inlet 3 teeth advanced exhaust 4/Sealant through the oil pump and oil pick up therefore lack of oil pressure destroying 3 standard turbo's before it was picked up. 5/Oh yea rang me up asking where the hoses went as he had forgotten. bbenny I went to the importer and purchased for $5, 2 90deg bends from either a red top RB20DET or RB25DET. I got 1 from each, removed the old twin outlet ones and tapped these into place. Done! Pete

Thanks for the replies! ok it seem's like I have done the right thing then.... But keep the opinions coming! Lol!

Have I hooked this up correctly? I have removed the one way valve/PVC and plugged up the inlet manifold. I have run the 2 hoses into the can and the return back into before the turbo. Is this correct? I will be getting a proper oil/air seperator eventually, so that the cam covers have their own inlets and have one outlet back into the system. Thanks Pete

Thanks for the advice. But after what I have put up with in the last year with faulty workmanship, after it is fixed I will be selling the car....... no more performance, just not worth it anymore.

Lol don't worry mate he will never ever see my car again! He wore out his chances. I never got upset at him when he stuffed up, I kept calm. But when he said You have to pay for it, I got pissed.

Thanks sydneykid, being in a 180sx I don't think there is room to swing your cat to get in there..... The clutch I had in there was an Exedy HD clutch and to destroy bearings within 2000km's? But I suppose too the sealant pump er um oil pump that I had in there could of contributed to the cause. The new clutch I have, as this one was slipping is a ceramic cushioned clutch with 1050kg pressure plate, will this cause a problem? Note this clutch has not been fitted yat as this was when they discovered the fault. I am worried that with the crank moving backward and forward it may have been scored.

Well I had my 180sx (R20)DET) in for a new/new clutch the other day. I got a phone call from the fella fitting the clutch, he stopped due to my crank having 2-3mm end float play! You can grab the flywheel and push the whole crank forward 2-3mm and back again! The fella who rebuilt the engine is refusing to pay...His excuse 1/ I supplied the main bearings, which he checked and ok'ed. He said the engine was tight when it went in. and 2/ Because the sump was taken off by someone else to replace the oil pump as the old one had sealant through it. He knew about this and nothing was said. What should I do? I am thinking of giving him some time to think about it and reconsider as it is in his best interest to keep a customer happy. Get someone (an engine builder this time) else to rebuild my engine ...AGAIN! at my expense Or get an import RB20 (bare) put my good shit on it and save like a furoius little bugger and redo this motor up to a 2.4? I only saw the motor being rebuilt in stages so I dunno to much about it... Oh I wanted to see an engine rebuilt.....so badly...I guess I went to the right place. I have spent over $5000 fixing up his previous arse up's. The whole engine rebuild was a shomozal. -missaligned cams he didn't know what it was so I sent it elsewhere who diagnosed ECU. Microtech fitted, THEN the cam's missaligned was found. -sealant in oil pump and oil pick up. Cost/destroyed 3 turbo's before it was sussed out. -when it was being rebuilt he fitted the wrong inlet manifold gasket and it was only because the water distributer under the manifold had to be fitted was it picked up....by me. -Engine in, dipstick and tube on the bench???? I picked it up, "Who's is this?" "Oh thats yours...." -Asking me (not a mechanic who stripped the engine) where all the hoses went. This is the crap I went through for a year and it is still going.

Doesn't matter, my rebuilt RB20 has 2-3mm end play on the crank. The engine rebuilder is refusing to touch it. injectors are the least of my worries now...

They are low resistance injectors. What is your fuel consumpton? I get 150km's to half a tank local driving, Best I have gotten is 350km's from full down to 1/3 that was highway driving, so the cruise is fine just the bloody idle and low rpm!

I was told the fuel pressure is 50psi... I was told the series 4 turbo injectors were a prick to tune, the series 5 being better. Maybe the same for the non turbo's.....Perhaps I shoulda just got GTR injectors, but will see how the CA ones go.

How's it? I have myself an RB20DET, It has FMIC, T04/T3 turbo, LTx12 microtech, Bosch 040, Malpassi rising rate fuel reg. Now the dillema I am facing is that I have Rx7 non turbo injectors fitted (460cc). The tuner had to run the car rich at idle due to dropping the cycle 1msec caused the car to hesitate and hunt. This is what he told me. This is causing problems, shitty fuel consumption as 90% of my driving is fairly local and the excess fuel seems to be washing the bores. The RB has been rebuilt and I think the overfueling is causing more damage than good. The tuner recommends that I drop injector size, so I have got my hands on a set of CA injectors to fit as they about halfway between stock (RB20DET) and what I have now. I am afetr opinions should I 1/Get him to try again with the 460cc's? or 2/Get the CA injectors cleaned and flow tested and fitted/tuned? What do you think? The tuner is fairly well respected as he has the Ford (hahaha) performance contract doing the new turbo falcons and v8's. Thanks for your opinions Pete

I have a set of RX7 (460cc) non turbo injectors in my RB20DET. The tuner said these are to big for my application. He told me he dropped 1msec on the injector cycle and the car wouldn't idle nicely. It is therefore running overly rich on idle and low revs. I am going back down to CA injectors (anywhere from 320cc-370cc dunno). Is this a wise move? They are bigger than stock so they should be able to support ok horsepower. I want at least 300rwhp(225rwkw). I have heard that the stock RB injectors with aftermarket reg and fuel pump can achieve 250rwkw. Oh yea I have a microtech LTX 12, bosch 040 and malpassi rising rate...thoughts?

ARE in QLD make proper oil/air seperators.....about $280

16mm or 5/8 hose from the larger of the 2 fittings that go from the cam breather's to either the inlet manifold or before the turbo. The linking hose is smaller. So the answer is you need 16mm or 5/8 hose.

Mate if you find out let me know! I have a LTX12 in my RB180sx and would like to do the same. I am not interested in 101 gauges in my car, wanna keep it simple etc.

Either the LTX8 uses a "waste fire" type setup where 2 injectors are wired together and 2 coil packs are wired together. The LTX12 is wired individually.