omp

Yay for Sydneykid! He has helped me out too!

I thimk you could just remove the water lines from the block and block them off with appropriate size bolts. Good luck with the one that goes around the back of the block.

An SR 180 would give a R33 a good run for it's money......

Yea about wastegate mods..........The guy who built my turbo put the actuater can in the wrong spot. It is right in front of the compressor outlet, so if the rod goes to "come out" it hits the outlet pipe. Good thing my car ain't going and I spotted it when I was fitting the intercooler pipes. Not happy to run 10000000000000000000000000000psi boost into my stock RB20DET! I just hope the turbo works out good, T04/T3

13b non turbo injectors are the square type not the oval shape, which I think you are thinking about.....I think

I am using 13B non turbo injectors which are either 420cc or 460cc Lol damn memory! Anyway I got them from a fella from nissansilvia.com for $35 each. They fit straight in, the last 4 digits are 1350 from memory??? Anyway I also, during the conversion got new injector plugs, which are similar to the stock ones except the lug is in the centre and not offset. They also have the spring you push down to unplug them vs the spring clip that gets flicked off and lost. I am running a microtech LTX12 (a 180sx RB20DET) and haven't got the car back yet so I cannot comment on the further.

bump

How's it? I was wondering does the AAC valve have anything to do with the air con? As in brings the idle up when the a/c is turned on. I am asking because the fool who installed my microtech LTX12 removed the AAC valve and the other valve it is "piped" into. I am yet to hook the air con itself up (an R33 setup so I can run 2 thermos on the front as the RB20 is in my 180sx) and I am wondering if I have to bolt the AAC valve back on. I have spoken to Tim from Micrtech and he says I may have to refit it. Thanks Pete

Looks like a walbro to me?

Yes it has something to do with emmisions. No idea what the bottom hose does, I have seen it done on Skylines a fair bit. I won't remove it as I want to keep the police sorta happy.

Hows it? I have a RB2DET in my 180sx, soon I hope to have R33 aircon setup (so I can run twin thermo's on the front). Which means the charcoal canister will have to be moved. The top hoses, easy but what can I do to the bottom hose? I am thinking of relocating it to the passenger side strut tower, should I just run a hose back to where the original hose is, down near the radiator? Thanks Pete

My self personally it's all hard yakka

How's it? Thanks for replies folks, I have calmed down a bit since yesterday. The workshop it is at now has discovered I was given a dud turbo! The oil flow is sufficient, but they have offered a few suggestions that I won't go into. I spoke with workshop 1 again and they are willing to fix anything that needs fixing. For now I will leave it to that and I just hope it all works out in the end. Thanks again for allowing me to vent my frustration on the net rather than with a bazooka

Yea i suppose he did fix it even though it took a while. This thread was written for me to blow off steam.

How's it? I have fitted an RB20DET into my 180sx, to say it has not gone well is an understatement. I will tell you what has happened but I won't mention names. I had the RB rebuilt standard, when it came to finishing off the engine mechanic no.1 asked for pics of the engine in magazines as he couldn't remember were hoses went. I also had to obtain torque settings for him as well. When it came time to start the car it idled but had no power. He asked me what the problem is (I am an electrical fitter and there is no mention of automotive mechanic on my ELECTRICAL license!). So after I watched him scratch his head I sent it to workshop 2 who was told this is a rebuilt engine it idles but has no power and stalls after running a while. They diagnose it as ECU and I thought f*&k it install microtech. I am told that car is ready but is still low on power. I go to pick up car and the car won't start! After apologies and discussing with me, one thing I mention is that when mechanic 1 rebuilt the engine I asked how he aligns the cams (out of curiosity) he tells me that no.6 lobs face 180deg apart. This twigs workshop 2's curiosity, they check it out and do compression test, the result is 105psi! They check cams and lo-and-behold inlet cam 3 teeth retarded, exhaust cam 2 teeth advanced! I tell mechanic 1 and he swears that he checked it and offers to go and fix, but workshop 2 won't allow him into shop, insurance reasons. So I wear the cost to fix. With the car running, I discovered that no.4 injector is leaking, turbo bearings are noisy (I knew that from the start), power steering pump is leaking at inlet, main seal leaking/trickling and some other minor stuff. I send the car back to mechanic 1 to fix these things up. He was the one who picked up no.4 injector was leaking so he fixes no.5, a week later he fixes no.4. The main seal was fixed no worries. Power steering pump was fixed, also he had to replace the power steer inlet pipe as he used the wrong type and the fluid was seeping out of the line, he fixed that. He replaces the turbo and assures me everything is kosher. The next day the turbo again shit's itself! He assures me that oil was flowing in the turbo. The importer where we got front cut and replacement turbo now wants me to send it to turbo specialist as he doesn't want to keep replacing my turbo's, fair enough. So I send it back to workshop 2 as they are a performance shop and are a turbo specialists dealer. I am thinking oil starvation and so is the rest of Australia but this mechanic 1 assures me it is ok. What in your opinion should I do? This mechanic 1 guy, if something comes up I don't hear about it till I ring him to ask if the car is ready. I obviously have to wait till I hear response from workshop 2 as I am also getting them to check other stuff out (more money out of my pocket), like engine compression mechanic 1 says it is at 140psi all cylinders which is very good for a turbo car (I thought 170psi?). And also the clutch, it has free play and is soft when cold and when it warms up the free play goes and the pedal becomes harder. If it turns out bad (financially) what should I do? I took the car back to him as I payed him to do a job and I did help him with it (tickets on self everything I have done has turned out well, thermo's, fuel pump etc) so he did knock some labour price off due to this fact. What do you think? Sorry for long post but you can't make this any shorter due to the shit I put up with. The disadvantage of it all is a mate introduced me to mechanic 1 and WAS sort of mates with mechanic 1. Thanks Pete

It's got brand new hoses, every single one. Thanks again for your feed back we'll see what mechanic say's tommorow after the turbo is changed.

Funny about the cam timing because I did have that problem! When I first got the car going it had no power at all, the guy who rebuilt the engine scratched his head so I sent it elsewhere. It initially got diagnosed as faulty ECU hence microtech. It then got diagnosed as cams miss-aligned, Inlet cam 3 teeth retarded, exhaust cam 2 teeth advanced! I like Skyrine daves response as it sounds cheaper to fix (hahaha), as my car is, well is there anything above overfueling? I get at the moment 250-300km a tank! Thanks for your responses Pete

Hello, I have an RB20 that has just been rebuilt (standard). I also have a Auto meter boost gauge, when I had the CA in my 180 (RB is now in the 180) the gauge used to read around the 20Hg. Now it reads around 10-15Hg, is this about right or is there something wrong? The car hasn't had the intercooler hooked up yet, as I have had other drama's with it. To cut a long story short I had to get the car on the road and the intercooler piping will be done soon. The RB feels sluggish down low but I have so far diss-missed this to the microtech not being tuned yet. So what vacuum should I be running? Any help would be appreciated thanks Pete

V i think in nissan terms is "variable" as in timing

Sorry to hear about that bud. Watch out and take it to a mechanic you can trust. I hope it is all ok.

How's it? I have an RB20 in my 180sx. When I first got the car on the road the turbo bearings were making a "buzzing" sort of sound. I got a replacement turbo fitted yesterday, it was fine up until today. Now the replacement turbo is making the same sound! The mechanic who fitted it swears that when he took off the other turbo oil did come out of it (I was thinking oil starvation). I haven't been running a BOV due to the fact I haven't gotten around to fitting I/C piping yet. Could this be the problem, with boosting up and then the air has no where to go, goes back hits the turbo blades and knocks it out of wack? Or am I clutching at straws? Thanks Pete

Ok thanks for that, I know what you mean by a funky idle! Mine is around 700-1050rpm but it is only running off base map at the moment. I am running the engine in after a standard rebuild and I also have to hook up the intercooler as well. Will certainly let you know how I go! Cheers Pete

How's it? I have a 180sx that I have fitted an RB20 into. It also has a Microtech LTX12 (a long sad story) fitted. My question does the standard ECU have to be retained to run the air con? I am getting the air con fitted later this week and I just would like to know is all. The guy who fitted the microtech isn't at the workshop at the moment as he is on holidays, so he isn't there to ask. Thanks people. Pete

Hey Mase you wouldn't believe this shit, mine is still off the road. Delay with Microtech and now they can't get it right, may not of been ecu...........not f'ing happy!

Oh yea forgot to mention this is for RB20DET. The injectors I listed (CA or RB26) in regards to there resistance shouldn't be a drama due to the microtech I would imagine. What I am really after is a straight bolt in fit injector (top feed type like my standard ones) other than RX7, that would support 350hp at the wheels. I think RB26DETT would be the way to go, does anyone agree? Thanks Pete