MBS206

My tail shaft uni joint is shot to hell in my commodore. It shakes the steering wheel to the shit house. Change the uni joint. Problem gone. uni joint approx: $15 from Repco. My dad has also had many uni joints go, with EXACT same problem. If he gets on the gas, and the shaking disappears, it's definetely tail shaft.

For those of you who get yelled at by the people for using buckets and sponges at the car washes, point to the sign about not using them. It states it's only in affect in California... As for desal plants. If you set it up properly, you don't need the electricity to seperate it away. Hence no power in that regard needed at all! Plus, if the government were smart, they'd be buying electricity from places like Bluescope Steel (The amount of waste energy that goes up in the air, is MASSIVE, the only reason they don't harness it, is because they have enough to run the whole plant on there own, and no one wants to buy the excess) There's your extra power, with the same amount of gasses being released now. As for the greenhouse gasses, it's all a crock of shit. Have a look at how the earths climate shifts over thousands of years. We're just hitting to the natural point of melting the polar ice caps (Basically, the opposite of the ice ages we get!) It's all natural, green house gasses are only SLIGHTLY adding to this affect! As for recycled water. Do a bit of research into it, we have one of these plants at my work with your "6 star rating" and it's claimed unfit for human consumption. None of this "perfectly safe" we're told, straight out, it's unsafe and for industrial use only.

But this guy is jumping up and down about bad fuel economy. 90% of fuel economy problems are how people drive. If you want to boost the car every gear change, expect to fill up every 200-300KM. Basically, it's a different way of saying HAVE A LOOK AT YOUR DRIVING STYLE! And I'm not talking from just one tank on the hume, I was giving how I generally drive, each time I'm in the car. It's driver attitude as I said 90% of the time, that controls fuel economy. If I said my fuel economy, and nothing else, heaps of people would be like "WTF, why's mine so bad" whereas, IF they think for themselves, they might take a look at there driving style.

If a vacuum hose is disconnected, the car will bring the revs up to around 2000 - 3000RPM.

Ah well, now I know what that weird noise is in my liner, and why when I just touch the clutch pedal it disappears... No more worrying for me.

You guys have shocking fuel economy! I get around 11.5 - 13 L/100km! That's in an R33, 3" turbo back, 7psi/11psi (adjustable on switch) FMIC, induction pipe on turbo... Mind you, I generally keep the revs below 2500RPM, which if you do, you get alot better economy, I don't even meet normal atmos pressure half the time (Aftermarket guage too BTW) As for popping and farting. The AFM is measuring X amount of air, then you let off the gas and vent to atmos, hence, AFM thinks you have a shit load of air, motor has no air... Basically, it's going really rich as the BOV vents as the ECU thinks there's more air in there!

It rains here, at my house basically once every 2 weeks. I have a water tank that basically, we struggle to keep room in! If people were really smart, they'd start to set themselves up now for water storage. Hell, if people on farms can live without a source of water from a big ass company, so can people in the city. Hence why I have no issues using a hose to wash my car. Hell, half the time I do about 5 cars in a row, and don't use all that much water out of the tank. And we won't run out of water. They'll end up pumping it in from the snowies before we run out. That and end up setting up a desalinisation plant.

Won't stop me washing my car, smack in my driveway, in full public view with the hose. I "haven't" been able to do it for MONTHS, but it won't and doesn't stop me doing it.

It's not a "30-40 KW is lost" Other wise a car that only pushes say 60KW stock at the fly, would only be 20-30 at the wheels, BUT this isn't so. What it actually is, is approximately 30% loss in a RWD for an auto About 25% loss for a RWD in manual And around 20% is the general give for a FWD car of either manual or auto.

How many lights do you come across going to/from work. And how long are you siting at the lights on the way to work, and how long on the way home. I'm thinking, you get alot more lights closer to your work, that you are left sitting at. Whilst on the way home, you go through the lots of lights first, then down the freeway, take a couple of turns, and whamo, home again. Hence, not idling much on the "end" of the homeward journey.

Goldzilla, I'm not yet a member, but I will be joining very soon, I just need a couple of spare $$$ (Currently owing sister some money, plus christmas etc coming up.)

Sheet metal place. And be warned, aluminium sheets are quite expensive. Just had to buy 2 of the farkers for work!

The whole idea of the way these are working guys, is so that it gets a correct amount of idle time. It could have to do with temperature in the air, different traffic, etc.

You have a vac leak. Pure and simple. Grab another hose off (After putting first one back on) and do the revs change? If they do, they the hose you pulled off before has a crack in it.

Try clutch start in either 2nd or 3rd gear, 1st is WAY too low. If the motor won't turn that way, I'd be very worried that you may have just seized your motor.

I didn't know how viable they'd be, as yeah, sunglasses are a bit of a hard market to cover for. Does anyone have a link to the already available merchandise?

Sunglasses. Much like the old oakleys etc, but instead of the Oakley symbol, do the SAU logo.

On such an issue, many places WON'T take responsibility for a broken window, but it is a very low chance of it breaking. And I would be replacing it. If the insurance company can claim its structural, you're stuffed if you have an acco.

When you go to clutch start it, does the motor turn over or is the motor seized also?

It's got way too much air. It won't fire. The car also won't fire up as you're only running the TPS sensor and Map sensor. It'll be wanting the AFM meter as that is it's main information source. Hook the pipes up, and then give it a kick in the guys!

Leadfoot: I now see what you mean by the bad seal... I went and ripped my back seat out last night, to install a 12" and amp... Man, what a shocking seal!!! I'm running my 12" firing directly at the boot lid (Towards the tail lights). I can't test firing across the car, as my box is too wide. But I had this exact same amp/sub in my commodore, when I put it in the skyline, I had to run the sub on minimum on the headunit AND turn the amp down... It's so much of a nicer sound in the R33... A single 12" will be perfect in the car, even with the seat in there!

Immobiliser in the car?

Um, after doing ALOT of research, the way the Bendix Ultimates are made (And the whole Bendix range) they shouldn't be run with slotted rotors at all as the slots will just tear them apart.

You need new uni joints in your tail shaft. Trust me, my old car did it. BADLY (Uni was shot to pieces) replaced, shake gone. Skyline does it too, and I know the uni joint in tail shaft needs replacing. Do you get a "clunk" at all when you go from 1st, to reverse (When on the spot with engine running) and then go to reverse? If you get on the gas once the vibration is up, it all goes away doesn't it?

Cheaper tyres, offer cheap grip. Cheap grip is SHIT. I have the same Falkens someone else mentioned earlier. They were on the car when I bought it. Seriously, if I wanted to KILL someone, I would put these tyres on there car. For lack of grip in a cheap tyre, I can spin 1st+2nd, and not leave a mark on the road, nor any smoke. How's that for a lack of grip? Put on grippy rubber! My old commodore ran shit tyres when I got it, I was going to put mags on and run very good rubber, but decided in stead, to save the $2500 on mags, and just buy tyres. $500 later (It's a family car!) and the car behaves totally different. ALOT more grippy. Just spend your money on the BEST gripping tyres possible (This does NOT mean the most expensive tyre! Read up on the thread above about good tyres)