kx2fity

Had my compression checked at workshop probably 100km ago and it came back perfectly consistent 150s! Do you mean just with a handheld compression tester gauge? I havnt used one of them before but will see if I can go pick myself up one tommorow! I am still convinced its something ive done whilst cleaning engine as the car has barelly been driven 100km in the last year and a half and had been running perfectly before clean?

UPDATE: Still running rough- poor idle / Blowing white smoke / loss of boost / power I have spent all day again going over everything - solderd up afms again (the car is definitely running smoother but no boost/power and a lot of white smoke) - checked vacume hoses - checked electrical connectors and checked for exposed wiring - Pulled apart BOVS (these were caked with fuel especially in the alloy elbow connector? Can this happen from to rich a mix? Normal? (Boost gauge 'standard' still reading 0) - should I get out the multimeter and start checking everythings getting power - I have got a nissan consult cable and software but no working laptop, would it be worth borrowing one if its likely to pick up such error codes that are affecting car Would it be worth taking my coilpacks out again and checking for moisture as i only gave these a quick wipe as i couldnt see any moisture on them- only down in the spark plug area where water was sitting? Ok I am really stumped now so I'm going to mention everything i have done in the past weeks! Changed my Pods over the other day from Hks mushy pods to some M's pods, i wouldnt need to reset my ecu for this would I? Running a BLITZ ACCESS ECU Having my fuel pumped earthed at the moment meaning the pump continuously engaged- is it possible my injectors could be over-firing or somethings a miss with the FPR? Thanks again for all the replys I pulled all the connectors out around this area aswell as plenum sensor thing but there wasnt a vacume hose? Not the one half-way down the intake plenum that connects into the head?

Went right over the car last night and found a plug that was unhooed between dipstick and oil filter so I am hoping that might have something to do with it, I also found a lot of moisture in various plug connections so have dired them all out + I have pulled the afms out and will resolder the connections today! Cant seem to work out which vacume hoses you guys are talking about? In and around FPR? Thanks, Dan

Yeh that was my first guess i had disturbed something in this area so will be down there tonight checking all connections and i mite even test the injectors aswell!

Yeh that sounds more like it 'fuel' Im just going by the dirty big spat trail i left in the shed of which my old man cracked it and made me degrease it all up haha I am heading down tonight so will start with the CAS and remove the AFMS and check these ( The reason I didnt think it was the AFMS is because last time i cleaned the engine bay i completely removed these and coles bagged up pipes and the second time i had a crack at cleaning the engine bay i kept completely away from the right handside of the engine bay as to not disturb them but yeh water i guess could have still somehow got in there) Thanks for your help mate!

Update: Its been about two weeks since I last drove car - of which at that time was running fine! Have taken out coils and plugs and as predicted the first three plugs were caked with water so have cleaned and dried all plugs / coil packs. The car is definitely sounding better at idle but still has loss of boost/power and blowing a lot of white smoke (not blue as thought before) and spitting oil out the exhaust? I am a bit stumped now as to what could be still making it blow white smoke and loose power? I did give it a good blast and scrub around the fuel rail / injectors / Crank angle sensor areas- could any electrics in these areas be causing such an issue? Another unusual thing i have noticed is the clutch making more noise then usual when engaging ( brand new have driven less then 20km with- twin plate ORC) cant work that one out at all either?

Yeh took colpack cover off today and the first three plugs were caked with water so have cleaned area out, cleaned plugs and dried coils. The car is definitely running better but still has loss of power no boost and blowing a lot of white smoke/oil out the exhaust? Bit stumped now as to what could be making it burn oil?

I am actually beggining to think it was white smoke now as I only got a peek at it as i was driving along in the rearview! Im heading down now to check for moisture in and around coils and spark plgs will let know if this fixn her up! Thanks again for replys!

Nah this was all done weeks ago and had the car running smick around 2 weeks ago where everything was checked and took it for a decent run! Am going to take coils / plugs out and see if i can find any moisture then i guess i will start with electronics?

QUOTE: sounds just like when i lost a turb lst week car making boost past the zero mark? This has me worried - I don't think it was making boost! Cheers for the replys, I am going to take cover off tommorow and do a full inspection and see what I can find!

Would the engine heat after long idle not evaporate all the moisture in and around the coils and plugs?? Will have a look at this to as I did give it a fair hammering around the coils/plugs!

Hmmmm that could make sense as i know the Bov's wern't venting at all when i was driving! I am really hoping its electrics so will start with and around turbos!

Hey people am having some dramas with my GTR: I had a go at cleaning my engine bay the other day as the car has been off the road for the last year +, all went good so I decided to give it a bit better clean today. I alfoiled up some electrical bits WP40 others and then went about degreasing the left-handside of the engine bay and then spraying scrubing etc When I started the car up it blew out a lot of what looked like water out the exhaust? The car idled very rough and when given acceleration sounded very hollow, backing off the acceleration the car would drop to around 300rpm and them slowly and sparatically make ts way back to 1100rpm. I then took the car for a short drive - it had trouble taking off and then a complete loss of power and started blowing blue smoke - i took it straight back to the shed where i kept it idling for around half an hour or so. The car kept engaging "clicking" something that would drop idle rpm and then slowly work its way back up to normal rpms! The car stopped doing this after 20 odd minutes but any time i tried to drive it - would blow blue smoke and loose all power? (The car hasnt been driven much in the last year but had it running perfectly and took for a decent drive about two weeks ago ) (Also having a small fuel relay issue which means the fuel pump is earthed engaging as soon as ignition is switched; cant see how that could have anything to do with it though??? Any ideas or advice would be greatly appreciated???? Thanks, Dan

Hey people am having some dramas with my R32 GTR: I had a go at cleaning my engine bay the other day as the car has been off the road for the last year +, all went good so I decided to give it a bit better clean today. I alfoiled up some electrical bits WP40 others and then went about degreasing the left-handside of the engine bay and then spraying scrubing etc When I started the car up it blew out a lot of what looked like water out the exhaust? The car idled very rough and when given acceleration sounded very hollow, backing off the acceleration the car would drop to around 300rpm and them slowly and sparatically make ts way back to 1100rpm. I then took the car for a short drive - it had trouble taking off and then a complete loss of power and started blowing blue smoke - i took it straight back to the shed where i kept it idling for around half an hour or so. The car kept engaging "clicking" something that would drop idle rpm and then slowly work its way back up to normal rpms! The car stopped doing this after 20 odd minutes but any time i tried to drive it - would blow blue smoke and loose all power? (The car hasnt been driven much in the last year but had it running perfectly and took for a decent drive about two weeks ago after I got it back from panel and paint) (Also having a small fuel relay issue which means the fuel pump is earthed engaging as soon as ignition is switched cant see how that could have anything to do with it though??? Any ideas or advice would be greatly appreciated???? Thanks, Dan

1990 bnr32 RB26DETT If someone could help me out with the part number or even just the name of the: clips/plugs that hold the plastic cover across the lower portion of the front windscreen (just below the wipers) - I think there is around 6 of the plugs - Thanks in advance, Dan

Hey mate would really appreciate that, I have talked to my panelbeater again in he is of down at kyp getting some other bits and pieces and is seeing if he can get a relay off of them! Apparently the relay was clicking for about min+ and then stop etc so it sounds as if your write on the mark with a grounding issue! The actual rear quarter panels and rear wheel arches were removed and new ones put in there place i wonder if it has in someway affected grounding of the relay etc! Have sent PM to thanks!

Thanks mate I will call my panel beater and get him to give that a go! Yeh I know relays tick when they release and engage but if its a continuous clicking of which it sounds like (from what the panel beater has told me) it could be turn itself on off on off!

Just talked to my Panel beater and he has told me that is the Relay making a funny noise (TICKING NOISE) and he has checked the fuel line and there is no fuel being fed? So Maybe not the pump? Where can I get myself a relay from? Thanks, Dan

Not exactly sure of problem as I havn't been down there myself to look at but from what my panel beater has said: all electrics fine, pump is making an unusual noise - intake removed and no fuel being fired so presuming its fuel pump/relay end? Is there anyway of testing relay/pump? Are the relays vehicle specific?

As topic states I am in urgent need of an auto sparky in the Osborne Park area! Basically my GTR is having a fueling issue so I need someone to diagnose problem so we can chuck in a new pump or relay etc to get her going! I am working away at the moment and have been waiting on auto sparkys now for 2 weeks and have yet to have one come down and have a look and diagnose the problem! The car is about to be put onto a transport truck and I need the car running by first thing next week, all i need is someone to go diagnose the problem the rest we can take care of? If anyone knows of someone in the area or someone who may be able to help, I am more then prepared to pay for or supply carton etc! Thanks, Dan

Thanks for that guys- I havn't been able to check headlights yet as I work away a month at a time and the guy working on my car hasn't got around to checking globes yet! Ive attached a photo so if possible could you please confirm projector headlights? Thanks, Dan

Thanks for your input guys! I have checked out CEVA am just waiting for a reply quote! I think your correct GWP021 when you tow another vehicle the cover on the vehicle you are driving 'if full cover" usually covers it! I managed to get the oldman to let me borrow his BT-50 so if need be I am going to tow it down now- just need to hire a good car trailer!

Interested in one of these kits (6000k), what kit would i need for my 32 GTR? Thanks, Dan

Yeh true mate but I dont see any other way! I also have the problem of working away and not being there if we were to load it up on a car carrier!

Yeh its not to bad a drive I used to do it all the time in my GTS-T but yet to take the GTR on the trek!