bubba

I concur with the Chaser. Awesome car, only like the JZX100's though. For a 4 door semi-luxo model they weigh in at about 1480kg and you can get them with the 1JZGTE single turbo VVTi and a 5spd.. can't go wrong! Probably be my next car.. for the missus to drive

Depends if you want one licensed or not.. I had a rolling shell in my driveway that was in the perfect condition to start a project on (interior was fully stripper, body was half prepped, needed some weldeding still) sold it to some random for $300 because I needed the room (had just bought the R32 ). Just remember that it's going to be an old car and will probably be a bit rotten, unless you can find one that someone has already put the effort into. Either way, they're a nice simple car to work on and they pwned Bathurst with a 170kW 202, drop an RB20 in it and get some nice suspension (I think Pedders did my mates' sis' LJ for a lot less than $1000 for full race shiz) and it will pwn. Edit: when it comes to old Holdens, the Quokka is your best friend Edit#2: ROFL quick look on quokka.com.au and I found this.. TORANA LJ GTR, turbo charged, in storage for 25 yrs, ex Wanneroo race car, lots of XU1 options, 14" mags, over $12,500. Mrly. 0419-445-532 But this is probably more suited.. Torana 1973 lj 2850, 4 door, straight 6. running condition, un-licenced. $900 ono If you want a 2dr then start jacking the price.. even a good condition licensed 4dr is going to cost a few grand.

A mate has an RB25 in his LX Torana, it's running and driving but has been off the road for the last 7yrs, just getting the suspension sorted. The car has upwards of $30k invested in it and now he wants to sell me the 25 and put a v8 back in it! If it's only an RB20 though I think you would be better off going with the LJ, they weigh slightly over 1000kg and would go like a shower of shiz with an RB20 in it.

Having had EXTENSIVE experience driving a particular 1986 911 I can say that it is an amazing car, but it is 20yo so expect to pay through the nose for repairs. Do NOT get a convertible, it cost my old lady $4.5k to redo the roof (with genuine Porsche materials), $7k to rebuild to gearbox back to stock spec. So yes, expensive to maintain, but a LOT of fun to drive. I have put that 911 through a lot of hell that I wouldn't even think of trying in my R32, and it loved it. Not super quick, but the standard 3.2L 170kW was good for a 14sec 1/4 and 0-100kmh in 6.4sec. Not bad for a mid eighties car. It easily went off the clock in terms of top speed but it's almost like driving a turbo car, it has a noticeable powerband, if it's below 4500rpm then she ain't goin' anywhere! Basically, if you've always wanted a Porsche and are prepared to open your wallet wide, then you can't go passed an 80s (930) 911. If you can afford a little more and get a 930 turbo.. oh boy! Otherwise, stick to something that is easier/cheaper to extract power from.

RB motor into a datsun 1200 or a gemini not much fuss?? Easiest car to put it in (other than a Cefiro or something) would be a VL <smirk> I guess he is wanting to put it in a smallish car and have a pocket rocket? LJ Torana

Has anyone gutted a standard airbox to put their pod filter in? I picked one up cheap but am of two minds as to whether I gut i for the pod filter or put a panel filter in it..

I too am having problems with my climate control, it read -30deg for the ambient temp, thinking it was the unit itself that was dodgy I swapped for a spare I had and still reading -30deg. I'm thinking this might explain why I can't get the aircon to work, it just blows really hot air all the time as it thinks it's 30 degrees below zero in the car.. So where is this in-cabin temperature sensor located? Cheers.

I've heard ironing boards work well.. you find them in skip bins sometimes

I got DivX but no sound

Only 5 after you snap one

ugh <70kb/s.. I can upload faster than that spose I'll go get some dinner while I wait.

I've noticed some heatsoak in my engine I think, after about half an hour of driving she drops a little power and pings a tiny bit at WOT. My engine bay gets really hot but I think this is due to no heatshield over the turbo/dump (I guess when the last guy put the split dump on he didn't/couldn't put the headshield back) and my engine bay gets REALLY hot, along with the post-cooler piping. My pod is sitting in this nasty environment unprotected I picked up a stock airbox, trying to figure out whether to gut it and put the pod in it, or just get a K&N panel filter.. what are they worth?

those getrag 6spds aren't that flash, my mate snapped 3rd in his doing a standstill (could have just been his driving tho ) but getting parts for it was insane, toyota don't support it as it's a getrag box made by BMW so everything was ex-germany O_0

Do you actually know anyone with an R32? The outlet on the inlet you speak of is actually the inlet for the plumback piping from the standard bov which is located on the standard crossover pipe.. Now I am questioning whether you can actually read at all

My boost drops from ~14psi to ~11psi but I too think that has something to do with my exhaust.. it came with a split dump and a 3" catback but a stock front pipe and standard cat 0.o will be getting a full split dump/front in one and a hiflo cat soon enough so we'll see if that makes any difference. Otherwise the 33 turbo will go on sooner.

that's insane!

gah I have to go to my mum b'day party which starts at the same time as the cruise

My first car was a HZ Premier, 253 with a 4spd.. probably put out about 51kw too full of rust and a complete slug but it was loud and got me through my P plates But with all old cars there will be headaches, the older they are the bigger the headaches

Management is the bit that's got me stuck the injectors only cost me $50 with a rail and are a darn sight newer than the stock ones, so so if they work, cool - leaves a fair bit of safety with the duty cycle - if not, whack the standard ones back in. I'm trying to decide whether to get a dyno tune and remap once it's done for about $700 OR saving a bit more for a powerfc as long as someone could convert it back to rb25 setup. I can't really justify the $1500 for an AP Eng powerfc if I can't use it on the next engine What kind of setup are you running jazza?

They are top feed injectors, apparently of an R34, eitherway I have the rail they came with and a smart mechanic for $50, if they are good, then there no problem. For $300 the RB25 turbo shall be a nice upgrade while I save for an r33 frontcut and I will be using the RB25 actuator with the RB25 turbo. Not everyone has cash to throw around so why bag on cheap yet effective (hopefully) upgrades. A real waste of time is spending thousands on your RB20.. an RB25DET is a better place to start.. too bad they only came in boats

2142 is pretty resource hungry and yeah new systems aren't that pricey, just don't go to a store I built my system, as follows, for a little over $1100.. AMD Athlon64 x2 4200+ dualcore Asus Sli motherboard 2.0Gb Team Xtreem RAM (2-3-2-4) 600W PSU (some shiny thing) 2x XFX 7600GT's Upgraded DVD drive but retained everything else.

try driving a fast car with no abs and no engine over the front wheels, you quickly learn how to brake heavily without locking up

I imagine it would be at the bottom in order to fit the RB bearings to the RB crank. Either way, find a machinist and hand him a rod and both bearings and say "I want these in there"

when you say it drops below 10psi, how far below are we talking? 9psi? or less than 5psi?

I'm using the turbotech boost controller on my r32 gtst, running 13-14psi, it does drop off slightly but only to 11-12psi, not below 10. Not too worried, it's all temporary because as soon as I get some management the RB25 turbo and R34 injectors are going in