sky017

that fitment should be pretty good , youll just need to get rears pumped . im running 10s + 22 all around on my r33 gtst . all depends what work your willing to put in to make wheels fit . my 2c

haha , well i can definitly say i will never be touching acrylic ever again . practice makes perfect , but in saying that its hard to visualise the end product when you have to sand for a few good hours , hate it lol the skin on my fingers are just recovering.

oh hey mate , yes ended up DIY , which was the best decision . yeah how did you go with the fibreglassing ? did you end up tackling it your self. geez mate what did you do to your front bar and fog lights. hehe yeah shes definitly an eye catcher now if you need a hand with the front bar fitting hit me up mate.

dash boards are always going to be likely to loose the grip of the tape if they are constantly in the sun . thinners are a bit much to clean your dash lol harsh.. try wax and grease remover , thatll be a little more friendly , you wouldnt want any cloth streaks in your dash from thinners .

+1 for the tape with red backing and grey tape. iv used it to hold mirrors and panels on to walls in resturants . strong stuff

i find confidence is the key , i used to be so worried when i used to spray acrylic , thinking oh damn i hope i dont ruin it etc.... a positive approach goes a long way . if you have everything correct , mix your paint to the right ratios , correct air pressure , and just test your gun settings on an old panel , you shouldnt have any trouble. i did my bonnet yesterday , and i must say it came out great , no tiger strips either which i would usually get with acrylic in the past.. a little more motivational pics for those out there

i never wore anything when i sprayed arylic . but yeah i wore a full body suit to cover up and a propper respirator , i didnt want to take any chances . the stuff smells so strong .

cheers man , i like how the clear just really seams to water out once it sprayed . i did notice it will hide any ripples if you had them , as you build the clear up it seams to become more uniform during each coat.

Hey guys , thought id share my 2 pak painting experience to possibly help any others wanting to give it a go that are a little less informed. so after purchasing my body kit i was up and down weather to get it proffesionally sprayed or to do it myself . after enough searching and and hearing the same price figures i thought id give it a go myself . i have had previous experience spraying with acrylic with a few of my cars , but i thought i really want to step it up with this car and get the best finish possible , hearing enough talk about how 2 pak is obviously a more harder , stronger finish , i thought it was time to see it for my own eyes. spraying acylic in the past , i wasnt very happy with how easy it can dry out or even if you get petrol on it when filling it up , it could take off the shine. i purchased all my paint , sand paper , and all neccesary items . as everyone has said , its all in the prep . i spent 2 full days fitting the kit , and preping all the panels for spray . i must say my fingers have seen better days with all the sanding , being in the furniture trade sanding is my worst enemy . from this experience and other past journeys with spraying , i did definitly put a lot more effort in prep , and i can definitly say , spraying a guide coat / dust coat on the panels in black for the final wet sand was the best thing iv done, as it really shows up all the potential marks or spots you may have missed , which iv definitly learnt gives the best spraying surface , which is probably why my fingers are pretty sore . i primed everything that was in gel coat , then wet sanded to 800 grit . sprayed 3 coats of base , followed by 3 coats of clear. i sprayed everything at home in the shed , even though your ment to use a spray booth , i feel i had everything set up pretty well. i sprayed my front bar , skirts , rear lip , spoiler , rear bumper and bonnet on the way. here are my results , i know pictures can only show so much , but i was pretty damn impressed with how glossy it came out off the gun - and very hard , i havent cut anything back yet which i will do in a weeks time when its cured . i wiped the whole car down with wax and grease remover , so the shell does look dry at the moment until i cut it back and wax any questions , please shoot , willing to shed the light for any others wanting to do it

skirts $120 some one come take them , good condition

yeah mate go black , you wont look back what size wheels are you running , they look fat. i just had my gaurds pumped for my 10s all round , and i dropped it an inch to make some neg camber , i literally took the front bar off to get out of the driveway this morning , so she could go in for some work feel your pain

stick to one color , and if it was me i would stay all black . nothing beats a clean black car just my 2c and get the lower lip for the front bar , itll look the tits once all done

bump

cheers man , anyone have a window tinter i can use thats cheap and mobile

skirts $130

genuine bov by the way $90 now , want it gone as its collecting dust

Turbo Smart Blow Off Valve Atmospheric Very Good Condition adaptor for r33 and so forth sydney pickup prefered but will post at buyers expense . $100

Boot sold

bump side skirts and pods still for sale , want them gone .

wheels sold

wheels sold

sorry mate just after pickup . and pods are in good cond

volk rays wheels for sale , in good condition , 1 wheel has a hit as shown , still drives fine , perfect for track use, really just paying for a set of new tyres with free rims - tyres still have nipples on them. pick up in silverwater $250 want them gone asap.

photos of rays wheels .

yeah haha , i was thinking the same thing as the chord is only like 300mm long lol . thanks for the help anyway