R30-RB30DET

Allthough im speaking from NZ experience(a little more relaxed laws in that respect and more ruthless people like me) dont underestimate a R31 for its abilty though as my old HR30 L20E 5 speed used to tow a heavy trailer but well built 700-1000kg ish with a 1450kg stockcar on it on regular trips around the country as long as it was loaded properly, you didint drive like a mooron and were carefull with long down hills(lol at R30 std brakes) it was sweet as and R31s are a bit heavyer so I cant see why one wouldint be a good towcar(legalitys aside obviously)

Z101 goes on L20E/ET(and RB) so I would have thought it would be the same for all 6cyl L's and posibly FJ?

Haha wish those rims were mine but the are not unfortunatly there off my mates 180SX 18x9.5 Work Meisters but I will get something similar when shes nearly driving, FJ20DR30 thanks will PM you in a min, for a start I will just get the front 5 stud so I can get some nice wheels on there and because I have a shitload of 4 stud skid/drift wheels so gota use them up first then will do the back as thats way easyer to do as theres like 3 ways ya can do it and I have to get a expencive double caliper mount made for 2pot GTS25T calipers for the hydrolic hand brake and subaru leone front calipers for foot brake and cable parking handbrake, and yea bumbsteer is only to do with steering arm angle and what stagefumer said is what I will be doing anyway but I will be using a S13/A31/C33 steering rack most likley because the R30 steering box is a shocker and as for it being low well that is one of my biggest aims is to have it as low as its still able to be driven properly. Anyone got any pics of there setups ?

Hey people I have not posted on here for a long time but damn SDU is pretty dead these days and the oldskool section is fully dead except for me and stagefumer lol. My question is with the S13 style front end into R30 I know its been done a million times but recently my mate(who knows what hes doing and builds custom/modifyed cars for a living) said he measured up for another guy and rekons that it is not ideal at all like all wrong angles etc etc but knowing that its been done before makes me wonder what the hell hes on about! And I have some S14 5 stud/4 pot front hubs and S13 struts which I will put new aftermarket inserts in, weld on adjustable sleeves and put on adjustable camber tops. What I want to know is what have peolpe here used for bottom arms and caster rods on a HR30's?? and has anyone experienced anything bad? or is there a thread on here about this allready? I have dummyed them up onto my standard arms as showen in the pic bellow but it does not look right lol! and theres a couple of other pics of my turbo(MP T61 650HP), wastegate(46mm DSR), intercooler(600x300x100), engine bay seem welding/strengthening & other stuff aswell if anyones interested.

Ive got heaps of HR30/L20ET/L20E parts PM me af you after anything mostly sedan parts though.

REDNECK: I have the parts your after! PM me! dead32: No such thing as a DR30 hatch they are all sedan or coupe! The L20ET is not a bad motor and they have quite a bit of potetcial but to get over 150RWKW you will need to spend a bit of cash and it will be pretty lagy aswell but not to bad! My sugestions would be leave the standard turbo manifolds get a rebuilt and hi-flowed R33 T3 with a stage 3 T3 steel turbine wheel, T04E 57 trim compressor wheel and a ported wastegate, a custom 2 1/2 mandrel bent exhaust right off the turbo, large front mount intercooler 450x300x76 etc & mandrel piping, 400cc or bigger injectors, SR20DE/RB20DE/CA18DE/RB25DE throtle body, good fuel pump like a bosch 044 & a fuel presure regulator and a good fuel & ignition only ECU such as wolf or motec etc make sure it is a map sensor type as the factory AFM would be very lucky to make it to 140RWKW and with that setup and 16+psi I dont see why it wont get above 160WRKW!

RB30ET's are a stupid compresson ratio like 7.5 to 1 but im unsure what they end up when you chuck a RB25 head on them but I would say it will go down even further, but the normal RB30E's are like 9.5 to 1 then end up being around 8.5 to 1 with the RB25 head which is good really for turboing! Ohh and "the big JC" $80 for a Rb30 block?!? I would have swaped you most of that L20ET stuff you wanted for it if you were in NZ lol damn it!

operationsideways: Well all depending on your cars other modifications and tuning etc but the RB25 one with 57 trim compressor is rated at 550hp at the flywheel at around 18psi, so will suport over 400rwhp with an external wastegate and supporting mods and the 60-1 compressor is rated at 640hp at the flywheel at around 19psi so it should give about 550rwhp with supporting mods! judd33: As above. and can you email: [email protected] about them, this is the guy that builds these turbos

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=142301

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=142301

Gostrider: You said before that nissan have never made a R220(9 inch) but they actuly have! But its a shortnose type and they come in Z32 300ZX's! And what are all you guys going on bout lock diffs being bad or what ever? They are perfectly safe in R30s they dont break axles at all I have had the same one in my last 3 HR30s(built it for my paddock/derby car) and then it went into my turbo roadcar then into last non turbo roadcar and it was with the same axles for all of them and it probably ended up doing around 10000kms or more so far! and a mate has had a locker in his C31 laurel for the last year and a half and has not broken anything! Stuff having a R200 LSD unless they are rebuilt with a higher pound kit as they are just to inconsistant and unpredictable and so over priced its just stupid!

Bolt on upgrade turbos to suit R32 and R33(mabey R34?), they bolt up to all factory lines and pipes, awesome upgrade(way better than a RB25DET 45v or VG30 turbos) and these are fresh rebuilt items and have never been used, they will be built after the money has been deposited and take up to 8 working day to complete depending on how busy at the time! At this stage I am just gauging interest from you guys over there! and freight is a little bit of a bastard aswell, at a guess it would be between $45-$80?? RB20DET bolt on: Brand new genuien Garrett T04E 57 trim highflow compressor wheel in machined factory compresser housing, durable stage 1 steel exhaust wheel in machined factory exhaust housing, ported wastgate hole for stable boost control, 12 degree backcut on the exhaust wheel for top end flow, rebuilt ballbearing core and fully ballenced rotating assy, $700nz or $600 with a non ballbearing wet floating bush type core! Also $100 exchange for good standard factory BB turbos! RB25DET bolt on: Brand new genuien Garrett T04E 57 trim highflow compressor wheel in machined factory compresser housing, durable stage 3 steel exhaust wheel in machined factory exhaust housing, ported wastgate hole for stable boost control, 12 degree backcut on the exhaust wheel for top end flow, rebuilt ballbearing core with new seals etc and fully ballenced rotating assy, $850nz! or $750 with a non ballbearing wet floating bush type core! Also $150 exchange for good standard factory BB turbos! Can also upgrade the compressor wheel to a bigger 60-1 for an extra $150! Unfortunatly there is no real warrenty(only start up) as we can not know what conditions are surounding use and intalation! Also I am interested in buying any turbos off: R30, R31, R32, R33, R34, S11, S12, F30, Y31, Y32, C31, C32, C33, Z31, Z32, L20ET, FJ20DET, RB20DET, RB25DET, RB30ET, VG20ET, VG20DET, VG30ET, VG30DET, T3's, T28's etc etc etc and S4/S5 RX7 and 12A turbos off cosmo an S3

Very well said! Defanatly a big backstep putting a RB20 in it as these day they just dont cut it and go twincam I say as with a stock internal RB30E/25DE RB30DET you can get upto 300RWKW and the head is the limiting factor in the RB30E's!

Yep all RB's are mounted on a angle! What I ment is its on to much of an angle in my car and to make it the same as it would be normaly it needs to come up about 10mm on the L/H side

Yea you just have to space the L/H side up about 10mm or so to get it to sit as it would in a VL/R32 etc. The angles are mainly in the engine mounts that bolt to the block not the X-member.