zertek

forgot to mention its push type.

Hey guys, Just dropped a 25 into my gts4 R32. Car is not running yet as im waiting on a few parts before i get it going. Went to bleed the clutch today and when depressing the clutch, fluid started squirting out of the boot on the slave cylinder (rubber expandy thing). Im pretty sure fuild isnt supposed to make it to that point. so i pulled the slave off, dismatelled it and had a look. I noticed it uses a piston system, had a close look at the seal around the piston and realised it was on uneven. so i pulled it all out and put it all back together properly. Anyway, the problem came when trying to re-attatch it to the gear box, trying to push the clutch fork back to allow room to slip in the clutch slave shaft behind it. I just couldnt get the fork to budge, and the slave shaft was as back as far as i could push it. It was easy installing it the last time because i did it when the engine was out and there was no clutch pushing on it. Now the engine is bolted up to the bellhousing it is bloody hard. I lost patients really fast with it today because i have so much to do. Is there any easy way of doing this that im not aware of??? P.S gear box is from a 89 GTR. Cheers

haha, couldnt have put it better! :laughing-smiley-014:

compression test it right away, just for some peice of mind.

eh eh, got the engine in today guys!!! its bloody fiddly and ill take note to remove the gear box and engine together next time. was such a relieving feeling when it finally slid in! :D

anyone???

few, thought i was gona cop a ban stick right in the face for a second there

hope its not the starter motor behind this.... mine isnt finished yet and i will be using the rb20 starter motor on the 25 still. Hope i dont have to change that too

what wolf version is it??? hopefully its map sensored. if not then you'll need to find yourself an AFM.

oh forgot to mention i am also running an oil cooler and filter relocator so i dont need the heater hoses to join into the stock oil cooler system that ive seen on most rb's. So it would just be heater hose port direct to heater hose on the firewall. I just need to know what order Thanks

Hey guys. Just a little something im not to sure on about my heater hoses. Engine is an rb25det and is getting dropped into my 32. As you'd know, there are 2 heater hose ports on the inlet side of the block, each next to the nock sensors. My question: Is one of these a sender, and one a return? I have joined my turbo water line up to the small nipple off the heater hose port at the back of the block, and blocked off the small nipple off the heater hose port at the front of the block, as per my greddy plenum it has no where to go. and does it matter which port i tap into either heater hose on the firewall? ie front heater hose port to top heater hose on the firewall. Or is there a 2 way valve in the heater somewhere and it doesnt matter which direction of water flow? Really hope this makes sense... i suck at explaining myself cheers!!

no problem mate. i wont comment on any of the prices. That part is entirely up to you And yea, send me a pm when ever your ready.

haha, only messing cubes. like i said, at the moment i dont have much experience with turbo's. half the stuff ive learnt about skylines has been from reading your posts respect

oh and if your still in need of a inlet manifold for a 25 i have one. I went with a front feed plenum in the end. PM me if your interested. I also have various other RB25 bits and peices that i am not using if you need anything. cheers

Is your wolf a wire in or plug in? if its wire in, your better off doing what i am doing and leaving the loom in place and changing over the neccisary plugs to 25 ones. It's not expensive to have this done at a workshop. Im quoted 550 to modify my loom and tune up. These are the only 2 things that i will not be doing myself on my project. the wiring is better off left to a pro because the injectors need to be wired either in series or parallel depending on thier impendance and ohm reading. On the other hand if your wolf is a plug and play, just put the 25 loom in and your away. The 32 DE heads im 90% sure have smaller cams than the rb25det head.

hey mate, just gone through this myself. The exhaust side is the same between the 20 and the 25 so you can obtain your manifold. Inlet side is smaller on the rb20 though. So you will need to find yourself an intake manifold for the 25. You'll also need injectors as per the top feed and side feed difference. heater hoses are different size so you will need to fit reducers on the 25 hoses so they can connect to the previous 20 hoses running along your fire wall, obviously your loom is different although you can hold on to the rb20 ecu and give it a retune. you may also want to consider changing to an rb25 gear box, from what i have read the 20 gear boxes dont stand much of a chance up against an rb25det. your Crank angle sensor (CAS) is also the same if you dont already have one on the rb25. Your alternator, power steering pump, air conditioning can all go on the 25 as the brackets are the same. Thats about all i can think off from the top of my head at the moment. Hope this helps mate Cheers

sorry, to be more specific i was refering to on the dyno. 4th gear at 15psi, ive been told by a few tuners that 15psi (full boost) could be seen at about 4000rpm maybe a little sooner. Not sure what to expect really, i dont have that much experience with turbo's yet to be honest. Just given a heads up as to what i was informed. Cheers

Hey mate, Im was running that turbo with a .64 on an RB20det. It was laggy as all hell, but of coarse it will be different on a 26. I am now about to run this turbo on an RB25 which should run reasonably similar to yours. A few tuners have told me that i will not be dissapointed with the spool rate and that i should hit full boost by about 4000 rpm which is decent in my opinion. cheers

oh and just an idea for ya. I have a wolf 3d V4+ with a new custom rb20det loom that plugs straight in. might be a whole lot easier for you, then you can just sell the one you have now. if your keen make me an offer in a PM and i might sell. I'm currently contemplating other engine management options for my engien conversion. cheers

the actual wolf boys might be able to tell you. www.wolfems.com.au they have a list of wolf dealers in the areas of your state.

oh and if the mechanic is sure that it is a bearing or something, ring its neck until it dies and have fun finishing the job. then throw another rb20 in, would most likely be cheaper than getting a rebuild. 20's are going really cheap at the moment.

id take it to a workshop an let them check it out. would be hard for anyone to say what that is with out actually checking it out in the flesh.

oh woops lol, i see he just spelt second with out the 's'. my bad :laughing-smiley-014: i thought an econd jack was some kind of fancy jack id never heard of.

I'm in Adelaide, but na thats ok mate. the clutch is aligned fine. cheers anyway. i just used the plastic dummy shafts that i bought from a clutch shop. hey abu. cheers mate, yea it has a .7 compressor housing and it does look pretty big. was extremely laggy on my old RB20det set up. Hoping for a better spool now that its on the RB25det. I'm hoping for no more than 250kw at the rears (With AWD fuse pulled out). I'd be more than happy with this sorta power, anything more and i dont know if id be able to financially back it up with all the repairs it would need every few months I am hoping to use the same WOLF 3D V4+ ecu that i was using on the old set up. Ive been told it is compatible with the 25 loom. If not then id be happy enough with a remapped 20 ecu. Also, i dont mean to rush but you can imagine how keen i am to just throw it in and drive away at this point but yea im doing it properly, atleast i think i am with this being my first proper engine conversion Cheers abu! hey URAS, i may sound stupid but ive never heard of an econd jack? is this just like a hydrolic scissors jack or something? and no im in Adelaide. It seems most of the SAU boys are from melbourne. cheers mate cheers bubba buddy. Yea i'd give my left testicle for a hoist at this point. I'd also give money, but i dont have any. So if i get the oportunity to use a hoist, my left nut will just have to go. Cheers bubba ive helped a friend of mine swap a 25 in a 33 aswell with the box attatched, that is relatively easy. Without trying to sound rude, comparing your engine swap with my conversion, my conversion is alot trickier. you only have 2 shafts to deal with (tail shaft & box shaft). I have 5 (left drivers side, right passengers side, front drive shaft (box to front diff), gear box shaft and the tail shaft. very true. the 4WD sump is making things very crammy. I'm confident i will make this happen on my second attempt though. At the moment i am removing some things from my engine bay to make a bit of extra room. and also next time i will lower the box down to make angles a bit easier to deal with. Cheers again bubba