zertek

im horrible at explaining things but thats a load of poop. if anything, blocking your recirc valve or not running one, will slow the turbo down at a much faster rate. although its been proven that you can 'boost spike' it for a second apon an extremely fast gear change. Basically you have to be quick enough to change gears before the already built up boost pressure escapes through your filter, if you can do that and open your TB back up in time, its more inclined to throw the boost through your intake rather than out through the turbo because the blades are already spinning that way, and its the easiest direction for the air to flow. So say your usual 10psi of boost, supposively you may spike it to 13psi for a split second after your gear change. ive read about various WRC cars using this technique. I think this is where people get the misconception about it cutting a bit of lag. anyway, i told you im horrible at explaining things but i hope that makes atleast a little sence.

... did anyone see your wheels actually spin on your run up the strip? for drag i personally would just run it in RWD anyway and just drop the rear tyre pressure a tad. i checked my attessa fluid the other day and i dont have a bubble in mine at all. ill look for that yellow bleed wire too tomorrow morning to see if i have one. will be interesting to hear the result of this issue

if there is a way of getting the spline back in the diff while still attatched to the shaft, then id rather try that. but at the moment, we cant get it to pull back far enough to slide the spline back in the diff. So im going to attack it from the hub tomorrow. its just the hub bolt is so tight on mine that even with the brake fully depressed we can still spin the disc while trying to undo the nut with a torque bar

here is a pic of the situation see i have the spline off, cleaned and ready to get greased, go back on the cv, be sealed up by the boot, and inserted into the diff. But that wont happen until i get the shaft out so i can get room to join it up. here is where my plan of attack is at the rear of the disk.

p.s, they are all a redish brown colour on top, but have different coloured tips. 4 are grey and 2 are a sorta olive greyish kinda colour. and the 2 odd ones also have different serial numbers on top to the other 4.

cheers ill look them up

hey guys, long story short, i have bought a set of 6 s15 injectors of a SAU user, and now it seems that 2 of them are from an S14 and are ever so slightly different. have spoke to nissan and they havent got a clue on how to tell the difference. just wondering about getting them flow tested somewhere around in adelaide?

haha, i did. i actually spoke to you personally in a few PM's about it ages ago.

thats whats happened. which is why i am trying alternative ways to remove it. We have tried removing the hub but even with the break applied hard as possible, when applying force on the hub nut with my breaker bar, the rotor is spinning through the break pads. Going to have to remove the lot now by the looks of things, control arm, steering etc. to pull the shaft far enough back to slip the spline into the diff again. s**t f**k poo

MSD IGNITION SYSTEMS FTW!!!

hey guys, couldnt get this drive shaft out apon removing engine, so just ripped the engine out and bent the top of the drive shaft spline now its time to put the new one back in, and we cant get the f**king shaft out still. What is the easiest way about getting the shaft out?? this is really pissing me off. EDIT: in more detail. the spline and CV casing (one peice) i have off, it simply pulls out after you losen the clamp on the rubber boot. but the rest of the shaft that goes back into the disc, i cant get out, and i need it out so i can clean the cv properly, regrease it and put the spline and casing back in. Its hard to make myself sound any sense. ill take a photo cheers

just purchased one off ebay. says 'for all nissan vehicles' lets hope the damn thing fits.

thanks again mate, very helpful

dammit, cant find one on ebay. If anyone has what im looking for. throw me a PM please! Cheers

im going to be running 480cc S15 injectors so the fuel reg will let me bump them up a bit when i need it. cheers !!! Thank you! thats what i wanted to hear. nice simple solution. Cheers bud, ill have a search for them now.

c'mon there has to be someone that has a 25 with a after market fuel reg and standard rail. anyone??? :S

BOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOM!

hey guys, have my rb25 dropped in my 32, and with the previous set up (rb20) it was running a malpassi fuel pressure reg and custom fuel rail. now that im using the 25 and the injectors are side feed, the rail already has the standard reg. i want to use the malpassi and avoid the standard reg. because the standard reg is attatched to the fuel rail, the only way i can think of going around it is to modify the fuel rail? im sure many of you have delt with this before. I ran a search but couldnt find anything specific enough for my answer. Cheers, MIKE

hey buddy, i noticed your sig says 292rwkw on an rb20det? id be interested to see some stats if you get time to PM me. cheers!

if its a car running an AFM then yes you should get stalling problems, because your engine isnt receiving the amount of air the AFM said it is. If you dont get stalling problems, from idle if you blip the throttle, when the revs drop back down, they should drop below your set idle rpm for a second before coming back up. if thats not the case, then your tacho is shifty

yea i hate that stupid drive shaft. i had a bad time getting it out. elk i dont remember there being a circlip???

haha, err i figured out the problem. I feel like an idiot and shouldnt admit this, but when i first removed the slave a good 5 months ago, i accidentally pulled the shaft a bit hard and the piston etc. of it all came out, under the car in a hurry i sorta just popped it all back in there as i thought was right. I decided to re-inspect it tonight and found that i had the piston upside down:P and the ball cup end on the bottom. flipped it around, problem all sorted. got it all together in about 3 minutes lol.

Hey bhdave, The GTR gearbox i used on my previous set up, along with the same clutch and bearing sleeve and everything was fine. Im now begining to think that i may have upset the clutch forks position when installing the engine... i just cant understand why it wont fit... anyone have any ideas? ive drawn myself diagrams of the set up and am trying to figure out where ive gone wrong.... still cant figure it out

When trick said the 3 key words, "CHEAP", "BLOWN", "CRASHED" errr Uchiha, yours doesnt fit any of the 3 things he's looking for.

yea, if you already have the turbo water lines, one will travel around the back of the head, and then connect into the back of the factory inlet manifold. the other will connect to the side of the block below the turbo, you'll find it, its the only place the screw fits in that area. cheers