zertek

hey guys, Need to borrow a bit of knowledge from some RB experts . Over the last few months in my spare time ive been building up a 4WD RB25det for my R32 GTS4. I have installed a greddy type front feed plenum and its made things a little extra confusing for me now that i need to connect all the water lines. in this picture you can see the turbo water line coming around the back of the head. I am using one from an RB20det, notice it splits into too lines. I'm unsure if i need both the lines now that im using the greddy, so im guessing i might end up blocking the top one off? For now, you can see i have connected the bottom line to the closest connection, just for science. Anyone know where it/they are supposed to go? PICTURE 1: in this picture you can see another part that needs connecting... any clues? PICTURE 2: in this picture you can see the last 3 water connections i need to complete... the green plastic one and the other 2 metal ones. I have blocked off the small top metal one as instructed by this tutorial from strich9. this leaves me with another 2 lines i need to connect... PICTURE 3: help would be greatly appreciated

yes 1 sticker for me too thanks. PM me bank details cheers~~

thats farking cheap! why?

harmonic balancer still available?

Hey guys, In the process of an engine conversion still that is coming along extremely slowly. Im now at the point where its time to put stuff back together and i would like to replace my header studs before i put them back on. A few times ive needed nuts and bolts here an there, ive found a few at bunnings that i needed to put my engine stand together. Couldnt find this question asked anywhere so ill raise it. Where do you guys source your nuts and bolts. Nissan is obviously an expensive option. Would be good to hear a range of places. Cheers P.S to save making another topic, can anyone tell me the bolt sizes that are used to hold an rb20det gts4 sump on, or a staggy series 1 rb25det??? (they are the same sizes)

what whaaaat? surely they work for R32 GTS4 also???

YES! awesome, ill take one too please mate! PM me bank account details!

hm.... times like this really suck.

interested to know how these things go. Personally i am very opinionated about using a trusted brand turbo charger on my car. 1# its the cars main source of power increase 2# what if the hyper gear decides to spit turbine blades into your engine? Also like abu said, oil cooled only. When you think about it, you wont pay too much extra for something out of the garrett or hks range when you know you can expect good quality and performance and feel comfortable about it. Dont get me wrong, these turbo's might actually be the goods... but i dont know anyone who has had experience with them yet so id be a little weary at first, thats all.

i agree.

Ok guys, As the title states. Been workin on a mates car in his garage over the last couple of weeks. He has an RB25det sitting in his garage and it wasnt left sealed. Anyway, his old man decided to get the angle grinder out and cut a number of aliminium pipes for something he's making. When going to start a days work on the car the other day, we noticed the engine had a layer of fine aliminium dust over it. In panic we got the vaccum cleaner out and sucked up what we could of the filings. We removed the rocker covers and vaccumed the cams around the areas below the breather holes on the rocker covers, then put the vaccum up against each exhaust and intake port... Experienced answers are needed here. Is this engine worthy of going through all the work of a drop in even if there may be a little bit of aliminium left around that we could have missed? Or is it now destined to be rebuilt?

cheers Duncan. i have a SAU post saved somewhere on how to bleed the attessa. Looks like its time is near to come in useful for me. ATF or genuine nissan.... Hmmm... I dont know the prices yet... but my bet would be that im going to go with the ATF in the end, for the reasong being that nissan never fail to suprise me with the price tags they slap on thier products... Ill do my homework on the quality between the 2 and go from there.

ok cheers guys. So besides the hose from the hydrolic pump (located above the rear diff cradle), to the tail of the gear box, where else should i expect to find attessa fluid lines? sump diff at the front? It's just that i gotta start putting this all back together soon an the information the better

yea ill have to follow that line more carefully in the sun light tomorrow. Might just bleed the attessa if thats where the hose actually leads, then take the hose off an aim it into a bucket to catch whats left. Yea i hope they arnt tight too.... ive had all sorts of trouble with my engine conversion project regarding tight bolts... especially on the turbo area the bloody things snap so easy!

Hey guys, Dont have a R32 manual and wasnt able to find anything about it here in the forums... So anyway, I am in the process of removing my gear box (32 gtr box) from my R32 GTS4. First time ive ever done this so need a bit of help on 1 or 2 things. The motor is already out so i dont have to worry about the bell housing side of things. Tonight i removed the shifter, then inspected the underside and then disconnected the clutch fork and slave, after that i removed the drive shaft from the transfer case to front diff. Then it started to get a little cold tonight so i am leaving the rest for tomorrow. Before i packed up though i noticed of coarse the speedo cable had to be disconnected, the tail shaft needs disconnecting and im aware there are supposed to be 2 plugs attatched somewhere... 1 is the reverse sensor and im not sure what the other one is supposed to be. from my knowledge, that is all that needs to be disconnected EXCEPT for a hose i noticed. It connects to the tail of the gear box, about 1 inch directly above the gearbox to tail shaft universal joint. I'm not sure what its for, it was very dark tonight while i was working on it, so i tried tracing it back as far as i could, and it got to a point where i couldnt fit my hands any further. It appears to me like it connects to the rear diff? im pretty sure there is some sort of oil thats going to piss out everywhere if i pull this off? Really i wanna know, what it is, and the best way to go about removing it without making too much of a mess This way i can hopefully get the box out tomorrow before lunch time. Thanks guys

what about detatching the shifter also

this is interesting for me as today im about to remove my 32 gtr gear box an try an drop her down (home driveway job) It's already seperated from the engine (engine is sitting in my shed), so i just need to lower it down, and trying to find out whats involved when sperating the box from the shifter.

haha, yea i hate it its bloody evil! cant help but keep checking my page every time im on the net. www.myspace.com/mike_from_earth

woah... like always there are many variables.... I personally cant decide so i run the turbosmart V port adjustable and run a 50/50 set up

Hm... ive never heard of this problem... keen to hear more also.

not many people do the rb25det ecu remaps to my knowledge... better off getting a RB20det ecu and having that remapped IMO

manual spiggot bush - $18 from nissan

hey mate, dont suppose your old one stock one is in good nick an ready to sell????

Hey guys, undergoing an engine conversion an while i have my clutch out... observing it i can see its getting very worn an in need of a rebuild soon. Was wondering where most of you would recommend to get a rebuild done? The clutch is a nismo twin plate clutch. What sorta price range would i be looking at? cheers