im late

The HKS is a bit of a pig to work well with the 6 throttle. It can be tuned but usually on full boost F-Con V Pro equipped cars will always run rich on full load/boost. It has been recommended if I want a smooth tune, go with the single throttle (plus I like to be a little different from the norm). There are advantages with a single to a 6 throttle........But also there are very fast GTR's out there still using stock plenum. Each to their own I quess. Motor is stock. So I don't want to push it higher than 360 - 370AWKW. Funds will be avaliable for a forged rebuild when the need arises.

The GT-SS "Hot Side" (i.e. back of turbo) bolt pattern is identical to the stock GTR R33 Turbo's The two Trust front pipes will each bolt up as they were made to bolt up to the stock turbo's. Once they are bolted up the Trust front pipe will bolt up. Nissan Skyline BCNR33 RB26DET 95.1 -99.1 Main Pipe SUS 70mm, Bypass Pipe 38mm, 1& 2 Pipes 80mm (Flange Attached) Check out below for more info: http://www.nengun.com/trust-greddy/extention-front-pipe

Hey Guys, What do you guys think of this setup? (I'm doing this over the next few months) HKS F-Con V Pro ECU - Launch control activated GReddy 6 throttle plenum coverted to single throttle (www.aseturbo.com do this) Nissan Q45 Throttle Body Sard 700cc Injectors Sard FPR Bosch 040 In- tank for pickup Bosch 044 with surge tank Twin Apexi Filter Inake Kit (will be closed off from engine bay heat) HKS GT-RS Twin Kit HKS Front pipes (Ceramic coated already by CIC) HKS Dump pipe (Ceramic coated already by CIC) Xforce 3" Hi-Flow Cat 3" Jasma stainless steel rear section exhaust ASE Turbo Front Grill Mount Oil Cooler Trust/GReddy Oil Filter Relocation Kit GReddy Profec B Spec II Tomei Oil Pan Kit Tomei Oil Restrictors Brand new O2 Sensors Note: I already have the ECU so Xspeed will be tuning it. Once done I will post dyno figures in the relevant section. Any feedback guys? Comments?

D-Jetro or AFM Version?

I have XD9's with 275/35/18 Tyres I have and R32 and it all fits fine with no rubbing/problems at all.

+1 ^^ Also Aaron @ In Tune Performance

Hi Harry, Your component selcection is quite good for 300 - 320AWKW -HKS 2530 Second Hand turbos's - $2000 - My opinion HKS GTSS Twin Turbo Kit. Around $2600 new; is the best combination of response and power for this power range and a direct bolt-on with all the required plumbing and fitting components included in the kit from HKS. -Apexi Power FC - $800 - Yes. -Nismo 600cc Injectros - $600 - I reckon 700cc instead. Not a big price difference but more ceiling for the future. -Heavy duty 5 puk clutch (for drivabilty) - $700 - Optional. Not needed for the target figure. -Z32 AFM's - $400 - Optional. Not really needed for the target figure you are after. But get it if the budget allows. -EBC Profec B II -$300 - Good to have. These you need in addition to above for a reliable setup: -Upgrade your fuel pump (nismo intank or Bosch 040 fitted) -Fuel pressure regulator (some poeple will say not needed. I say for less than $200 you have a better unit than factory, plus you factory is very old by now). Factory items you can stick with for the target power figure you are after: -Factory manifolds -Factory cat and exhaust -Factory air box. -Factory cams and cam gears The above items do not give you a big performance difference for the price you pay for them. I would say the only one which is quite nice to have is a full exhaust from the turbos back. Don't cut corners if you decide to go with an exhaust upgrade. Hope this helps.

The GTR has the ATESSA 4WD System (yes it is electronic and computer/sensor controled). Most of the time, the GTR runs in RWD mode, when it senses that the rear wheels are losing traction it will direct some of the torque to the front wheels. So it is still a fabulous RWD car most of the time with 4WD when you need it. It is NOT a full time 4WD car!!!!! And HKS make a decive that you can use to control how much torque you want the front wheels to have or you can make it run in RWD mode only!!!! Yet another example why a stock GTR is far superior to a GTS-T...

Hey Guys, I did some searching on this forum but did not come up with any answers. Does anyone know what Ohms the standard injectors run at? 16 or 2.5? Or another value? Cheers..

GTR's do have the potential to cost $$$ if something major goes wrong. But so does other high performance cars. The RB26 motor is not made out of paper. It is one of then most well built motors that ever came out of Japan. If you buy one that has been looked after and then you look after it yourself (i.e. don't thrash it), servicing is quite resonable (on par with servicing a V8). Any perfomance car is going to cost you more $$$ to own/service than a non performance car. But back to your topic... If you are asking whether a stock GTR has a huge difference in performance compared to a GTS-T then yes, it does. You can't compare them fairly if lots of dollars has been poured into a GTS-T and then no dollars into a GTR.

My 2 cents on the thread topic.. GTR > GTS-T (and no before you think, this is not a biased comment it is a factual one). I owned a R32 GTS-T way back when I was 20. It was my first "performance" car and I loved it. But after having owned now two GTR's they just do not compare at all. They make look (exterior-wise) very similar, but thats where similarities end..........

mmmmmm.......GTR is little bit two heavy for fantastic drifting (Of course it weighs more than the GTS-T).

I look forward to seeing your dyno results... But more importantly, the "real world" day to day practicality and reliabilty with an RB26.

SOLD

:PBJ: My pleasure It's great to see that you are going to do it properly. You will able to drive with confidence with your new ECU install.

+1 to Trent's comment!!!!!!!!!!!! It does not matter how good your mechanic thinks he is with the good old drill bit trick, It is a risky procedure. Get it done properly the first time. Pay the labour to remove the plenum, don't risk it man. Do you think for one second the mechanic will gaurantee in writing that NO metal fragments will enter the motor and that he will pay for any damages caused if they do???? I don't think so... The golden rule..... Pay more now.. Pay less later.

Profec b spec II for the win!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Seriously. It is a excellent unit. Make sure it is installed correctly for best results.

I'll take this.. PM Sent..

Tommy, I think this answers you question about issue with Plenum: Extracted from: http://paulr33.skylinesaustralia.com/docs/...powerfc-faq.htm Diagram is in the link above I hope the helps clear things up.

In this case you should get the opinion of other mechanics (is you car still drivable?) If they all quote around the same then you know your first mechanic is not telling fibs. Sometimes mechanics charge you their "learning curve" time as they are not sure how to install. Alternatively, why don't you consider DIY?? Check the link below: http://paulr33.skylinesaustralia.com/docs/...powerfc-faq.htm Great credit to the author!! There is a section on installation... Once installed correctly, car will start with a base tune. You can then drive to a tuner and just pay tune time. Save you plenty $$$

There is no problem if your car does not. That is because most likely the r33's you witnessed probably have launch control. This feature is usually avaliable on some HI end ECUs (e.g. Haltech e11V2, HKS F-Con Pro V). Launch control enables you to build boost (usually 50$ - 70% of you max boost capacity) before you move. This is so much fun to have.............. Does your car have a stock ECU?

Great news! You were genuine in your situation and your proper procedure of following up lead to a victory. Excellent work! A lesson for a lot of us

Item: Alpine IVA-D310E 7" LCD Touchscreen DVD Player Age: Over 1 year Condition: As new. Was hardly ever used Price: $1000 FIRM (Still retails for $2599!!) Location: Perth WA (Happy to post at buyers expense) Contact: PM Comments: See Below I am offering this for sale to SAU Members before I post this on eBay (I will do that this weekend): Alpine IVA-D310E 7" LCD Touchscreen DVD Player This is the undisputed leader in the market for Car LCD DVD Players. Those in the know will know that it has every conceivable feature that a lot of other models do not have. Only true Audio enthusiasts will appreciate this item for sale. Some of the basic features: “Pulsetouch” Touch Screen (feels like you are pressing a button) Fully motorised (not just flip, can also extend further to clear the dash, customised screen angle selection) Ready For iPod (with Alpine’s KCA-420i Module) TFT Active Matrix 7” Widescreen LCD Time Correction Built-in Dolby Digital /DTS Decoder (2-Channel Mix Down) 3 PreOut (2V PreOut) Can control extra (headrest or roof) Alpine LCD Screens Please see the link below for full features (there are over 200!!), alternatively feel free to ask away any questions and I will be happy to answer. http://www.alpine.com.au/products/product.asp?modelID=233 Picture below of the player: http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd180/i.../1532008001.jpg This model still retails in the shop for $2599. eBay Australia or eBay America does not have any current listing of the exact model I am selling. And even if America did it would not play Aus region DVD's. I paid $1800 (with receipt to prove it) Will sell for $1000 FIRM Reason for sale. It just sits in my spare room. I would rather put the money towards my car for performance mods. Condition is excellent. Also, I don't want to hear "Pioneer are selling for $799 at JB" or "Ebay sell DVD Players for $299" I don't care. This a genuine bargin. I really only want to sell to people that appreicate it's value. It troubles me to state this but seeing as lately this occurs a lot on the forums: P.S. I may also be interest in swaps for aftermarket R32 GTR Performance Parts

With all due respect den001, this a for sale thread for Paul to sell his PFC. Not a thread to do figures and costs of what it sells for elsewhere. If you don't agree on the price, don't buy, don't comment. I am sure if you were trying to sell something that cost you way more than what you are selling for, you wouldn't appreciate other forums members stating cheaper prices alsewhere. With regards to the sale, some people will have a hand controller already or.....wait for it.....you don't need a hand controller to use the ECU as it is tuned by the laptop+software............... $650 is a bargin. Don't go lower Paul. A genuine buyer will come along a pay knowing that they are getting a bargin.

I see what you’re asking. The answer is no. The position of the gear knob is the same height whether you have the stock one or Nismo/C's item. My previous GTR had a Nismo - Gear knob the same height My current GTR has a C's = Gear knob the same height. I would not recommend using a short shifter on a daily driven street car as you know by now: I have a short shifter because I never really drive my car...just sits in my garage with an occasional burst at the track The only way I can see you getting a lower height gear knob is to buy another selector (don't hack up your original one) and then shorten it slightly (most metal fabrication businesses will be able to do this). You don't want it too short otherwise you will require more force to select gears.