Grunter

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No you shouldn't have to worry just make sure you change your oil filter as well. If you had a oil cooler on your car and it was the same or similar height as the sump like me it would be a great idea to drain that as well as even though a little bit you don't want to mix the oil as they don't go together

It can be a couple of things poor quality seal I dout it as being so new (I only use genuine parts now as much as possible) The engine may have a bit of blow by eg gasses getting past the pistons or the engine breather can be blocked PCV valve (Positive crank case ventilation valve) or the baffles in the rocker covers may be full of sludge not allowing the PCV valve to work.Sometimes I have seen marks on the crank where the rear main seals run normally I clean it up with a bit of fine sand paper them with degreaser or something slimilar.You said the oil level is fine which is good as if it is over full this can make the rear main leak. Hope this is of some help happy motoring.

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Thanks mate,who ever buys it will get a great deal.

Item:R32 RB25DE complete engine,loom,sensors and RB25DET short motor Age:Late 93 Condition:Good to very good Price:$800 ono for the lot priced for quick sale To Fit: (What car)R32 or what ever RB30 conversion you like Location:Liverpool- Sydney Contact: Grant (please ring as I don't get on the computer much on 0428- 234- 732) Comments: This is a much sort after pakage as the motor will bolt straight in your R32, loom computer everything.As most people have upgraded injectors and turbo already. Just think rebuild this with forgies and chip your computer and you have a monster combo. Or this head is great for a RB30 twin cam conversion as you don't have to worry about the VCT [b]Bennefits with this pakage/engine[/b] - Great for RB30 based engine build up ( cylinder head) - Being you can chip your RB20 computer to accept this upgrade everything else bolts on - The cams have slightly bigger duration and lift - Bigger throtlle body - The block and internals are turbo spec (Bar pistons) just add forged pistons I can assure you that the RB25DE Motor is in good conditon running order and originally an auto non-turbo you know that it hasn't been trashed The RB25DET short motor seems to be in good order as has no lip at the top of the cylinders and you can still see the hone marks in the bore maybe grap the low compression pistons out of this put in the other motor with fresh set of rings and bearings and of you go another cheap option. Selling as a complete package WILL NOT SEPERATE I will also throw in some heavy duty valve springs as well I have no photos as everybody knows what they look like! Please feel free to ask any questions you may have the best way is to contact me by phone 0428-234-732 ITEM SOLD Cheers Happy Motoring

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Hi mate if the motor has already been run in I think there is no need to replace bearings or hone out block that is something that should of been done before rebuild.Me I would have a very close look at everything and just fit your new rods and arp bolts oil restricter and oil mods and put it back together.Another thing is you may need baffles for the rocker covers.Happy motoring

Mate maybe speak to the people that sold you the dumps see what they say.I think it should have more clearance than that.A option rap the dumps in heat rap tape this will avoid burning any thing, they will glow red hot after a few laps around a track.One thing I have found is that nothing is a bolt on fit you always have to mod it to fit properly.Good luck

People that is cheap I seen the same thing today in a shop for $349 good luck with sale mate

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Mate I have heard of people getting tail sharfts made up and they normally like to see the car in person and measure it up.They need to measure the car at std ride height and the suspension travel to make sure it has enough length and won't restrick movement.Hope this is of some help

Mate best way is to use engine flush then drop oil and maybe repeat process once if fussy depends on how badly fouled it is inside the engine.With my car I change it every 3000km and after every track day with out fail.This is a must if you want a good reliable engine, oil is cheap rebuilds are expensive. I have personally seen cam sharfts snap in 2 through lack of oil changes.Always use full synthetic oil and you can repeat your engine flush every time you change your oil just to be safe in get it back to square one.My oil after 3000km is just starting to lose its colour,you have to remember that these cars see alot of revs and take a huge amount of heat.Hope this helps

I have heard good reports about Federal 595RS also and when I'm cashed up I'll give them a go

Very good point this should be considered one of the 1st things to upgrade

Yes mate as R31 Nismoid said should acheive around 180 - 240 rwkw one thing to remember is that all dynos read different some higher some lower as for your cam gears I spoke to Dr Drift and he suggusted for a good mid range responce set up aim for 5deg advance on inlet and 2deg retart on exhaust.I have yet to try these settings I'm waiting for my next track day to give them a go myself.Hope this is of some help

If they come from Fulcrum they would be Aussie spec the springs rates are 5kg Front / 4kg Rear

Yes I'm sure the GTS-4 and GTR are the same but the GTS isn't.The arms are different