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Everything posted by whistla
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check for leaks in your vacuum lines i had a similar problem and found that a vacuum line had split off the intake manifold where it was t pieced to go to the computer
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it would seem that i have a throttle position sensor problem since getting the version4Wolf in, the hand controller informs me about the TPS and where its position is it fluctuates though eg: while driving, u take your foot of the throttle but it wont say "0", sometimes it would say its full throttle and sometimes would sit at different intervals (44, 12, 69 etc etc) now to clear something up, yes i AM taking m foot of the throttle, and no the idle isnt being effected by it infact, its not a problem at all untill i want to set the Overrun Fuel cut where it cuts the injectors when the TPS is 0 now its pretty pointless having the overrin fuel cut when the computer never sense the TPS to be 0 iv cleaned the connections to both plugs, yet it doesnt solve the problem 1. has anyone else had the same problem? 2. how much are brand new TPS? (no i dont want second hand) 3. im planning on taking the whole unit off to have a look if anything is out of obvious place, anyone taken theres off before?
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its funny how police are just now "traffic police", non of this "protect the citizens" my mate got his car jacked by three guys with knives on the weekend, along with the car keys that they took he had his house keys on the set now, providing there was some form of 'house address' in the car (from a bill or something that was left in the car) the police refused to provide a police officer (just one cop please) to escort back home to at least check that everything is safe at home and theres no one waiting for em inside the house YET, they WILL provide four police cars (~6 police officers) to bust up and defect a bunch of 20guys at a carpark that happened recently LOVE the allocation of resources guys, well done
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i notice theres abit of fuel fume smell if its a hot day, had a drive, switched the car off for a few minutes and then switched it back on u notice the vapour pouring out of the fuel lid, something to do with the fuel return line maybe? check for fuel leaks around the fuel filter/fuel lines in the engine bay one of my first cars (which i wont say) had a leak at the fuel filter and noticed a real strong smell IN the engine bay along with inside the cabin just a thought...
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does that really matter...dont street meet races start the clock once u break the start line, so u could sit there all day setting yourself up and your reaction time doesnt get added to your finish time
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R31Nismoid, the thing i was told once by a tyre place is that u have to be careful when your lighting up the rears before u run down the 1/4 with most street tyres, theres a threshold point of temp, pass it and the stickness is not better than when they were cold unlike slicks, street radials wernt designed for the track i was also tipped that u can get treatment for street radials, its a paste u put on the night before run, breaks down teh rubber abit and makes it super sticky..the only catch is u probably have to put the tyres on when u get to the track and not drive up there with the treatment on the tyres
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apparently they were spotted parked in Box Hill last night...and someone nearly ran into the yellow 34 then again, id forgive em...id lose track of myself and probably blow too if i saw a 34GTR
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i just use the meguires polish i use on the car..comes out fine also try the polish on your plastic bits too (side mirrors, center gril, rear wing), they come out shmick
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as someone mentioned earlier...u do/should get a manual with your import, but theyre piss weak i laughed at mine, was only a few pages long and didnt mention much at all
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turbine: exhaust side, hot side impeller: compressor, cold side, intake
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yes, it all comes down to how the dyno is calibrated...there should be a universal calibration standard for these things dynos wernt made for "out right" power figuers i once got dynoed at 96rwkw :confused: then another place at 400rwkw, so u see what i mean when these things arnt calibrated properly and if the guy is saying "add 5% for a true figuer" just tells me that it aint calibrated properly dynos were made for tuning
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ahh, sorry...wasnt paying attention so yeah, intake/front mount/computer/boost your going to need some kind of fuel/ignition computer once u do the front mount cos it tends to run like a dog if u dont either stand alone or just SAFC, personally i dont like the stuff around and went for a stand alone...but it all comes down to funds
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considered an exhaust? 3" (minimum) from turbo back
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coil-over suspension JIC
whistla replied to ricknismo's topic in For Sale (Private Car Parts and Accessories)
what model? why you selling? whats the ride quality like? how old? -
Forwarding this over from a mate.... 1995 R33 skyline turbo for sale...in good condition. did ~80,000k on it, $350ono selling due to financial problems and hold on project call Vinh 0411 615 756 or email me on [email protected]
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Tein NR suspension for R33 GTST
whistla replied to skyline33's topic in For Sale (Private Car Parts and Accessories)
im interested...you have a PM -
***urgent skyline 4 sale***
whistla replied to a topic in For Sale (Private Car Parts and Accessories)
sorry to hear about this Michael....i was getting hopeful when u said u were going to keep it awhile back and then all excited about modding it further now we cant terrorise anymore excels together dont lower self and get what these people are offering, christ..$14k, what a joke People, what Michael boy here is asking is a f**king reasonable price, $17k for his ride is NOTHING, if u cant afford it..there are plenty of excels drive away no more to pay offers out there sickens me to hear it sorry to be harsh, but it’s the truth, face it -
Parking your Skyling at shopping centers
whistla replied to Guilt-Toy's topic in General Automotive Discussion
my girlfriend tends to get alittle pissed cos i dont always take the first available spot at shopping centers, im a choosy person and wont just park next to anything, even if im only going to be 5mins need to be next to a pole or someone with a nice ride (even another skyline for that matter) see, if u park next to a (even a light modded car), theyll respect your car as much as their own and will try not to wacktheir door onto your car or even someone that looks as though they just bought a new car rare, but theyre out there -
yeah, take the hose off the factory on and hook it up to the blitz (obviously wont reach, so just get a new hose) for bext results, take off the factory bov and place a plate inbetween it so as to block it off or u can take off the factory one all together and block it off with a plate, its up to you when i had the standard piping i kept the factory bov in place so as when police happen to open up the bonnet, theyd be nun the wiser cos the blitz was hidden away under the air intake snorkel
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hey iv got the exact same bov, but due to my fmic i could no longer use that pipe (new piping all round) so what iv done it taken off the blitz bov from that pipe/kit, and also taken off the factory bov. made an adaptor that: on one side would fit on the factory flange, and on the other side would fit the blitz bov (if i made myself clear enough) so, now my blitz sits in the factory location neatly id take a photo of it if i had a digi-camer (sorry) also, that 'hose' is the vaccume line that should be connected on the throttle body. if u look at the factory bov, youll see where it goes, u should use the same line of the bov to function properly
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fortunantly, i bought my car from there alittle over a year ago and have had no problems whats so ever had the car checked out by a mechanic friend and the only dodgy thing he could find is that the clock was wound back a tad (but tell me ANY yard doesnt do that, u expect that shit from importers) also, give me ONE importer that ISNT dodgy, im sure u can find a story from each and every one of em
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hahaha i was told not to get the angle grinder IN the car i was planning on taking the whole shifter out and cutting it, no i wasnt planning on cutting the middle section, cos with the way i shift chances are the welding will snap off im not very kind to my gearbox when im shifting hard dude,
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ok then, so how much is a proper short shifter? and where can one get such an item?
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rightio, the shifter in the 33 is BLARDY long, annoying and frankly...ghey so, im not really prepared to spend over $300 on a crappy rice boy short shifter cos honestly, its not needed (i shift quick enough and the throws arnt that long compared to some other cars iv driven) so, iv draw the conclusion that im going to do it..DODGY STYLEZ! cut da biatch down and shlap on a momo knob that tightens up with the allen nuts what are the pros and cons of doing this? anyone here actually do it to their 33?