whistla

The Nylon Impeller turbos were brought out in the R34's Regardless though, the weakness is the ceramic turbine I have a series two and have boosted mine to 13psi, although, i have a very efficiently cooling intercooler (~8degrees above ambient temps) and tuned properly Running stock intercooler your best bet for your mate is 10psi in which case would most likey be at if he was to get a turbo back exhaust (so there will be no need for bleeding) dont bother with bleeder valves or such, just tell him to get a dump/front pipe from the turbo and the boost pressure will increase natrually to 10psi

ill be there for sure i wont be late this time

im hoping to hide my ECU somewhere Put screw in the factory computer inside the kickpanel Hook up a fake wiring loom and tuck it up Connect my AFM back in but just plug in the terminal Reason why im doing this is i get MUCH better emission on my aftermarket computer than i do with my factory computer I just need a fake wiring loom now...

i need the factory wiring loom to suit a R33 GTSt computer i dont need it to function or anything, i just need it to plug into the computer and have a fair amount of length of the loom so i can tuck it up to make it look as if the factory computer is functioning (epa) does anyone have one or can point me in the right direction to finding one

i have a perfect condition burgandy series2 spoiler im located in melbourne

i have a burgandy one in perfect condition

Personally, i like the idea of reporting in the cops personal cars... Who cares if the EPA take down your details, u just give them the details of your most hated enemy or simply bullsh|t info And since when do the EPA need proof when your reporting someone else in?? What proof do the police need? I dont see them having anymore professional judgment than the next person... f**k em, im gonna do it! i got my epa letter last monday, so f**k em all!

Boostcut/Fuel cut i never reached it with my stock computer, but i know what your symptoms are some funny little shit set my boost cut at 12pound on my aftermarket engine management, and everytime i reached 12pounds my injectors would shut down, re start, shut downa nd jerk the car violently good chance is your reaching factory boost cut, its a safety measure implemented in the computer so as when your wastegate vaccum line decides to come off, the turbo/engine is still protected from over spooling find out what the stock boost cut/fuel cut is on the factory r34 computer (i dont know it personally) anyone else?

Thanx, keep me informed...im in no rush at the moment but, why would u want to get rid of it?

Front left plastic inside wheel arch thing That WHOLE plastic trimming thing (goes along bottom left of front bar) The one with the little vents for the factory cooler air to pass If anyone has one laying around or knows where i can source one, would be much appreciated Melbourne

mine are there and plugged in and my seat belt warning light works too i gather its for the warning light...

i have "the works" whiteline kit on my r33 gtst and its been the best money iv spent to date included: bilstein shocks and springs front anti sway bar rear anti sway bar castor and camber correction rods new bushes front and back hicas lock kit (which i didnt get, no real point on the street) the guys i all my car suspension work done at did a few strengthening of the diff cradle and such to really get the axle tramp down to a minimum (basically there is no tramp any more on hard take offs) my car came standard with a rear tower brace, need to get the front tower brace to "box" the whole thing in now, theres no point going all out on suspension if u dont get tyres to compliment the package so, while there i had some azenis semi comp tyres installed and the overall improvement is AMAZING words can no discribe

man, if u wernt buying this...hell, i would at that price! that looks shmik! rare as, and that has all the goodies!

So, what does your dad do? And how will u go about reeming them?

im planning on sanding mine back, polishing it and spraying some clear epoxy to stop it from rusting i had polished of one side of the pipe and noticed some rusting to form was told to either coat it with this epoxy stuff, or just get some anti rusting spray that they welders tend to use and just spray it over with gloss black paint *shrugs* well see when i get the change to do it but yes, that cross over pipes gets a fair bit of heat soak, when i feel the outlet pipe from my intercooler it ice cold, yet my intake temps are registering (thermometer is just located before the throttle body) ~8-12degrees abover ambient

yes

at least twice a week theres a new BOV thread... use the search function! thats whats its there for! trust me, youll find HUNDREDS of these similar threads

thanx prank...yeah its just the pressure plate dabigbolf, still costed me $660 to replace/machine/etc my clutch

thanx PranK, but yeah...its a b|tch to drive, but u get the hang of it in time need to change your driving style G0DF4Th3R, sorry dude, its just the pressure plate but thats all that i replaced in mine, and daiken did some other "stregthening" stuff, something to do with springs and pivot points *shrugs*

i wouldnt say so its about the same clamping pressure as the daiken organic h/d clutch (thats what i got in instead of this) not sure why, but for some reason it wasnt making a flush press/connection dont ask me, i cant get technical...but i can ask thing with a brass button, its alittle "b|tchy" when it comes to traffic/parking as u either have it ON or OFF (five puck)

was too rough, had troubles changing gears daiken had stuffed something up when they were working on my clutch we put this pressure plate in and for some reason didnt suit nor liked the way it was working its in working order, just didnt suit my application

For Sale 5 puck, brass button, sprung center clutch to suit R33 GTSt (or similar/compatible design) hardly used, can be said this thing is new (driven less than 20km) was put in, tested then taken out out about after about an hour asking $220 PM me for details/info/number to contact

its not so much the "geometry" of the car, its the negative camber u tend to get at the rears together with the signiture axle tramp plus the excessive negative camber u get when u launch hard mine has been lowered properly (whiteline full pack handling kit) which wasnt much, think it was around 45mm (we made it lower) and hands like a dream (together with the azenis) but thats besides the point of RON-15H question will he scuff the gaurds 265 rubber at the reas, dood, thats PHAT...love it

the turning angle of the rears due to hicas i belive is no more then 1.5degrees so i doubt youll have a problem dont quote me on this though, its something i read as for my car, my rear gaurge just sitting "on top of the wheel" so to speak (looking at it head on), havent had a problem with scuffing then again, i have stock wheels (205/55/16)

mine works whenever it feels blub works fine, if its not working, i take the cover off and fiddle with the blub...works fine for awhile, then again some thing with a mates n14 sss pulsar probably a nissan thing