TriniGT

Exactly what he says, I did this on my silvia and going to do it on my GT-T when I get my R34 Brembos.

Just wondering if anyone has tried these injectors on their GTT. I saw them while browsing for some items for my friend's forester. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/4-00-07-850...d=p4506.c0.m245 Can someone give me some feedback?

It's all I have right now, sorry. This is with 235/40/18.

Anyone???

60mm,

Note to self and others, initially I replaced the vacuum filter as it had a split and put a one way valve, actually an extra one from a boost sensor I had. When I went for a test run the BOV would not vent at all under regular or heavy throttle and I would only hear compressor surge. I am not able to get the vacuum filter anywhere local so I opted to join both vacuum lines for now until I come across one. Should I worry with no filter for the BOV?

Some turbine housings have a hex bolt in there that can be removed for the EGT probe to be installed. I have a defi EGT to install but I am waiting until I get the GT3076R in there.

Just finished solving the problem. Apparently the air filter/valve from the intake manifold to the BOV split in half, had a tiny separation so I put in a one way valve I had and ziptied it really snug and checked all other vacuum lines. Started and idle is rock solid as before. One less thing on the list.

So I drove most of the day today, car worked no problems. Almost reaching back from the trip home I find the base idle at a traffic light increase from the base 750 to 1200rpm. I check the water temp and it is at 88 and the oil is at 90, the day was pretty hot and I gave it a bit of stick but on cruise it began to fall to around 88 for the oil. Oil pressure is fine and at 12oorpm it is around 3 bar. Any thoughts why this is happening, coolant temperature sensor faulty? I reached home and switch off and waited a while and restarted and the idle is still at 1200rpm. Your thoughts?

Any chance you can ship this to me in Trinidad in the West Indies? My Postal Code is TT and I have bought a couple items from this forum already. Let me know a price shipped to me as my left light is fading and has cracks. PM me a price Jason.

Alright how about this set for inner measurements? http://cgi.ebay.com/Mitutoyo-511-166-2-0-6...id=p3286.c0.m14 And this for outer, http://cgi.ebay.com/Mitutoyo-1-3-Micromete...id=p3286.c0.m14

Has anyone heard of them and will it be good enough for use on a rebuild. It is graded up to 0.0001" and is electronic to leave less room for error. I am not sure on the brand but being that it is down to 0.0001" I am thinking it has to be fairly accurate and should work on both rods, cylinder bore, and the mains as well. What do you guys think? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-2-6-000...omotiveQ5fTools

Well I am in Trinidad, one of those islands in the Caribbean. Still looking around locally for options, will see how it goes.

Okay so I am in a predicament, mostly due to my own fault. I bought a Neo Head, and have work done on it to adapt the RB26DETT Intake manifold and ITB setup to it and the problem now is that I did not get the cams nor caps for the head. I have since got a set off another Neo head in an effort to get it running but on torqueing the caps the cams won't budge. I have since spun around the caps and have got 5 of the intake and 5 of the exhaust caps to be able to torque properly without any cam binding but the front two caps in any orientation locks the cam on tightening. Has anyone heard of shimming cam caps, meaning adding a thin sheet of metal in between the caps and the cam head jouneal to give the cap enough clearance when torqued? I know a lot of people will just say ditch the head and start over but I have spent a bit on the conversion and getting someone locally to do a tunnel bore on the camshaft tunnel is a no go as the machinery is not even available. I went to a local that advised me that the Jaguar head is very similar and they have done the same on the head with no problems. He told me to get a feeler gauge and drill a hole through some of the smaller sizes and use them to get the proper clearance with the caps torqued down, he suggested that once I got a proper measurement to give it a thou extra clearance and then trim them and torque down the caps. Yeah it sounds dodgy but at the same time it may do the trick, your thoughts.

Ganadors shipped to me in Trinidad in the West Indies, postal code is TT? Paypal addy is jason.jagdeo@citi.com. Thanks.

Sweet, I am actually converting my Neo to ITBs using RB26DETT setup and probably gonna run a GT3076R on an HKS mani with external gate, RB26 covers for the bling factor .

Hmmm I have some Rota GTRs with 18X9.5" ET12mm. I am gueesing I will need a lot of work on the fenders to have them fit my GTT? Thinking about putting them on the S15 instead until I can do the GT-R fender conversion for it to fit flush.

Didn't check, but if keeping the ABS setup will this R32 diff work? I remember that the GTR has ABS but not sure how it is in the rear subframe. Can anyone enlighten me?

I am installing an RB26DETT in my Silvia and am am wondering what diff ratio I should be looking at seeing as it is a RWD application. I have access to the R32 GTR diff and entire rear setup that I am swapping to the S15 rear subframe and just changing the diff covers and I am using an RB25 gearbox. Is the R32 GTR diff suitable for my setup as I am looking for good acceleration from the get go?

What about the harness and what not, gonna use yours and mod to work?

Damn what was I looking at??? But in the pic you can see that mine has some sort of ballbearing on the outside, is the plug behind that? Would I need to drill into the ball and then somehow get something screwed in and pulled out and then tackle the plug?

Hmmm I am wondering if the bumpstops is what is causing the noise on my ER34. My drop is 345mm front and back, I tried unlocking the washers on the coilover to the back and they won't budge. Gonna have to remove the entire setup and maybe scrap form the top and take it all off and then reassemble once I get them loose.

Give me a price on the RB26DETT, I want it for my ER34.

I have a Neo engine and I am not seeing the plug you'll have I am only seeing what looks to be a metal slug and a welsh plug not sure if it is the same thing. Any ideas?

If you do the rear fenders then you will need the rear bumper, and also the side skirting and GTR tailight covers as they are wider at the bottom. When the side skirting is done then you will need the front fenders and also the fender runners, then you will need the GTR front bumper as it is wider to allow for the wider front fenders and then you will need the GTR bonnet to use the GTR front bumper. You will also need GTR bonnet hinges, GTR bumper support bar and bonnet locking mechanism. In other words you need and entire GTR conversion to do it right, unless you get GTT-R conversion fenders that just give the back a wider stance without affecting the side skirts and rear tailight covers.