TriniGT

There are two bleed points on the ER34 GTT, one ot the front of the intake mani and one to the rear. Fill the rad till either on fills and overflows then plug it and then the other and then top up the rad.

Can anyone confirm that the GTR spoiler is a direct fitment to the GTT with redrilling new holes?

Is the part number on the four door and two door ER34's the same? I got a crack on my front glass from a stone that I have repaired this morning but I am in the market for a replacement glass. I have come across a four door fromt windscreen and am wondering if it is the same as a two door windscreen. Does anyone know or can reference it in FAST?

IMO it cheapens the agressive look of the R34.

Some pics of my ole gal with the GTR wheels .

Sorry just looked like automatic to me, what would postage be to me in Trinidad, postal code TT using australiapost international courier?

I would have grabbed it but it seems to be an automatic cluster.

Cam caps are specific and need to be line bored to work, using from a next head can cause the cam to snap upon torqueing. Slacken them per FSM order and retorque if you think it may be a problem. I suggest try getting the timing fixed before looking at a next problem.

Hmmm overtightened cam caps??? Check and also make sure that the CAS is not overtightened as well. Remove the balancer and line up the gears and the crank properly replace and tighten the tensioner to factory specs. I think SK has a detailed sticky on how to set the timing for the RB25DET, the FSM as well. Use a long screwdriver as well when getting TDC on number one and at the same time ensure that all others are in sync as well.

I always put some tac welding on four points around the pipe once it does not have that sealing lip and it never comes out. Next thing I also do is use hair spray on the pipe right before putting on the hose Once that stuff gets on it won't come off and seals well as well.

These are the gapping readings I am getting, Top Ring - 19-20 thou Second Ring - 25 thou Oil Ring - 25 thou Could it be that I got the wrong set of CP rings? The number on the bag says CPN-3386. This is very frustrating.

I started my gapping process only to find out that when I place either the top or second ring in the bore that the gapping is bigger than what was recommended i.e top - 17 thou, second, 19 thou and oil around 16 thou. I am guessing that means that the machinist honed my bores too big allowing the rings to have a bigger gapping. What advice can you'll give me to correct this and please don't tell me to get 86.5mm and rebore? Can I get some ACLs that would fit the build? This has got me really frustrated.

You going to the Caribbean? Maybe you can touch down here in Trinidad, we need a competent tuner and I am sure I can get lots of fellas over here that are willing to have someone like yourself tune their car. PM me some prices to give the guys an idea and maybe something can happen.

Hmmmm this would require me to get the area filled and tapped for the bolt as the inside of the head in that area was ground to mate proper with the RB26 ITB water ports. Gonna ponder on this for a bit, I am think the headstuds should have more than sufficed for this but I will rethink it.

Thanks for clearing that up. Is yours up and running as well?

Do you think there would be any problem with leaving out this bolt as my machinist forgot this and widened the water outlet for the GTR setup. Thinking about leaving it this way, your thoughts?

Only thing is that I am in Trinidad, wondering if I can contact a more local person say in the States to do such or just contact your person above? I have a couple questions as I am not a guru with the CR and whatnot. What is thew ideal setup for me to run for either a twin steel wheel N1 setup or a single GT3076R or max a GT35R twin scroll? I want to use an RB26DETT block with Neo head, is the stock bore of 86mm and 8.5CR acceptable with a 1.2mm headgasket? If so is that all I need to let them be able to design a piston for me using stock GTR rods and crank with Jun collar?

Cheers for the response. I am wondering if I can get a company to make me some custom pistons to my specs, maybe that will help that entire area. I will also investigate into the oil and water gallery positions using a headgasket for both the Neo and the RB26 and see what differs. Thanks again and will check the RB30 guys.

Sorry didn't realize I had it in the RB30 section. Anyone has thought on this idea. Looking at the twin option and already did the work on the head. Just wanna confirm that I can have the head successfully lodged on the RB26 block and what issues are gonna be encountered besides what I listed above.

Okay so I have made changes to my previous setup and I am looking at using a Neo RB25DET head on an RB26DETT block. I have done most of the work to the head already including adapting the RB26DETT individual throttles and routing of the water neck and what not. I am using stock head internals with new valve guides and an entire head service kit and using the RB26DETT cam covers. Question I am after is will the head be a direct fit on an RB26DETT block for both the water and oil galleries? I am going to be widening the headstud hole on the head to accommodate the RB26DETT headstuds. Plan is to run the entire RB26DETT bottom end and twin turbo it and keep the VCT by drilling the blank on the head to allow the oil to be supplied to the VCT solenoid rather than having an external line supplying it. Also will have the stronger RB26 sump and already have two oil returns for my turbo setup, already have a guy cutting and flikpping the cast iron manifolds for the exhast side on the head. Can anyone that went down a similar route give me some details or knows of someone that has done this and any problems they encountered. Jason.

Dirt Garage can you clear your inbox please, questions your way.

Hey smell is it a permanent power FC or you are just borrowing it to check for the problem. If it's a keeper then do like they say and see what happens. But ultimately if you have the wideband you can tune it out or pick up a new setup of O2 sensors.

Okay I have been watching this post as I am going to be doing the same conversion, but with all metal and aluminum fenders. The front is not too bad, need the GTR front fenders, GTR bonnet or if you wann be cheap and try to mod the GT-T bonne tto look like a GTR, GTR front bumper, GTR bonnet hinges and GTR bonnet locking mechanism along with GTR front bumper support bar. That's it for the front, the problem with mounting the front fenders is that when you mount them unlike the GT-T is that the bottom of the fender does not sit flush with the door as the GTR has the long side skirt unlike the GT-T which has the stock quarter piece to the back of the door, so definitely you need the GTR sideskirts. Next thing is that when you use the GTR side skirts the rear of the skirt is tapered out a little to compensate for the wider rear quarter panels so those are needed as well. Once you get the rear quarter panels you will need the rear bumper as the rear bumper is a little wider than the GT-T rear bumper to compensate for the wider rear fenders. Lastly you will need the GTR tailight covers as the cover are also a little wide to fit flush with the wider fenders, or you can simply use some glass to make up the difference with the wider fenders. So far my collection is just a stock Vspec rear bumper but by month end I should have a stock GTR plastic bumper with all the support bars and then I will be gettign the sideskirts and front fenders, only leaving the rear fenders.

That 15K is inclusive of the car as his parts were had for 3-4K, which is really good. Conversion was done really well though. Locally to me rear fenders go for about $1100USD per fender :ouch: