TTT

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=3696622 If you can better that asking price by ALOT, then I'll consider looking at your car. I am looking for a skyline, and I am looking to pay as little as possible. The car in the link above is in very good condition and looking to sell for about $10K. do you want to be in the game to receive the dollars?

wasn't there a 50:50 mix of something you should do?

Now that's just farking stupid!!!

yeh? just jap selling them yet? dollars?

AFM. Clean it. maybe resolder it. search AFM+SOLDER

You could probably get a generic intercooler like the just jap ones, pay $50 to have the drivers side end tank outlet modified to be a return type. then new piping made from there to the stock piping.. essentially making it the same as the blitz piping route. wether this makes it as good as a blitz intercooler is another topic of discussion all together.. but if "on the cheap" is what you are after when wanting a FMIC using stock pipes, that is the chapest way. or maybe you could find a second hand BLITZ or even AVO kit.

yah.. see?

No I haven't been to Japan. Traffic sounds like fun. do the log books show that the car was ALWAYS in Tokyo? if you believe it to be legit 90,000kms, then that's up to you. Let us know how you get along with the problem

The OP made no mention of current mods. So I will assume that he does NOT have aftermarket ECU or any sort of signal bender. so. to get the best out of a FMIC as you say Paul, he should have it tuned. so at least $200 to buy a first gen SAFC with blue screen and 1000rpm increment load points. Free to install if you can read instrauctions and follow diagrams. $150 tune minimum. this is on top of a Minimum $350 ebay special FMIC kit. then the associated bits you would need to get from bunnings like hole saw etc. or pay for some place to do the instal for you.. couple of hundred there. and what do you get in the end? MAYBE about 5kw difference at the wheels over just replacing the stock one with an R34 GTT one. it's cheap to buy, and then sell at the same price in years to come to another person looking to upgrade the cooler while using stock turbo. But hey.. if a FMIC is a must for street cred, then by all means. having said all this, if I bought a car with a FMIC fitted, I wouldn't remove it.. I just wouldn't go from stock to FMIC with stock turbo.

Thusly. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=3643686

how negotiable? This negotiable???????

I had a look at the pics.. looks like too much work for me to do to get it the way I want it. Thanks for thinking of us Demoniak.. Good Luck with the sale Joe

From a previous thread where we were chatting about Bosch bovs.. would have been good to see before and after dyno results.. If you have a 3.5 inch exhaust, and only using 1.1 bar boost, it doesn't seem that it would cause a restriction (in theory).. but seat of the pants is all that we have to go by sometimes.. you sure it didn't seel stronger due to sound under your seat?

Mate.. PM me your number and any other photos you have so I can put a case forward to the minister of War and Finance. any other angle shots you have. and interior and engine bay if possible. I'd like to buy something this weekend if possible. At the moment, you are asking price is one of the higher ones but it looks very clean. this is what you are up against.. 1st choice 2nd choice 3rd choice In reality, you are only in direct competition with the black one as it's my favourite off that list. I would prefer a plain silver or white car but you do take a good photo.. Yours is definitely the cleanest looking and the fact that it's a forum members car is a bonus for me. Like I said.. pass on your contact details and a general suburb that you are in (I'm on the north side of town but as you can see from the links above, I've got some driving to do this weekend to see the cars..) thanks

well they can only try I guess.

They handle it fine. also, I doubt very much that you feel like thrashing your car on a hot day. FMIC or SMIC.. Yes stock duct. or get the duck with from the R34 and modify slightly to fit. you could prbably also setup a water spray for it and still come out cheaper than buying an XR6t turbo and having some new mounts, and custom pipes made. and it wil lbe even more responsive than the XR6T cooler setup due to even shorter pipe and smaller volume of intercooler to fill. up to you though.. your money/car/time... your choice. For stock turbo, there is no need for a FMIC of any kind.

R34 GTT stock intercooler is good for about 220rwkw. that's more than your stock turbo will ever want to make. they cost about $150. they are a DIRECT bolt on to the stock R33 intercooler position. and they are a fair bit thicker than stock. in the future if you decide to change the turbo, sell the cooler for $150 to some other Stock R33 owner. nothing to lose. much to gain.

yeh... with the SAFC you really are missing out on the advantages of adjusting timing.. would bring on boost a fair bit quicker. sell the SAFC to a stagea owner and get a remap

Yes. Yes I am. As of tonight I will be Libertyless. But I'm only looking for QLD cars. unless an interstate offer is an offer I can't refuse..

not needed on an RB20. RB20 turbo has the nipple on the front of the turbo (compressor housing). see the vacuum line that goes from the wastegate actuator (the circle thing to the right hand side of the turbo entry) to the compressor cover. RB20's don't use a boost controller valve to control boost. the spring that is in that wastegate actuator is made to keep the waste gate closed for long enough to flow 10psi of air through. then it opens. The RB25 turbo has a standard wastegate actuator spring of 5psi. so they use an electronic valve to increase this to 7psi after 4500rpm or something. so the vacuum line an RB25 goes from the turbo wastegate actuator, to the electronic controler (attached to the suspension tower right in front of the power steering canister, has a blue vacuum line going to it) from there, in a stock RB25, it goes to a nipple on the pipe that goes from the turbo to the intercooler. long story with pictures short... RB20 doesn't need nipple..

CEF11E's R32 with RB20 and Slide RB25 HI-Flow made 240rwkw on 19psi. see here.. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Sl...ml&hl=19psi you won't get 260rwkw on an RB20 with an RB25 hiflow. people with RB25's have got that sort of figure though..

yes yes.. that info I know... and will be doing. but this was more of a thread to get SAU people involved. incase they were thinking of selling. or they kow of someone thinking they might sell up. Buying from the forums is kinda like helping a fellow SAU member out. thought I'd be decent and give them the oportunity first.

R32 with stock boost of 10psi. no ecu needed shabadoo.

"They see him Rollin... They Hatin..." why all the hate.. let him have it.. stock boost controller mod might give you 7psi, but the intake and exhaust mods (especially the decat) will increase that again. maybe his ECU has been fingered while in it's homeland.

did your skyline come with Nissan Service books with each service interval up to 90,000kms stamped when it was serviced? My guess is No. the logical assumption is that your car does not have 90,000kms. that would be 5000kms per year. 416kms per month 104kms per week. do you think that this could be true? seriously? testing the coil packs at idle or while cranking will give you nothing. it's a totally different environment in there when 10psi of air is blowing through there and things are moving at 6000rpm. I would suggest the following things first, and I must have posted this a hundred times. 1.) take out those spark plugs and gap them to 0.8mm (if they aren't already - at least take them out and check that theu are, even if the pack they came in said they were) 2.) Take out the coil packs and tape them up... below is instructions I gave another guy on here about 2 days ago.. these 2 things will cost you next to nothing. the next step is new Fuel pump. definitely before injectors. it will be cheaper and the more likely cause over injectors.