bigkevracer

The only dyno off Main North Road at Blair Athol was Road and Track. Mike Dale used to be the dyno operator, now running his own business at Holden Hill, Mike Dale Automotive. He doesn't have his own dyno, but I know he uses someone elses much the same way as you're looking to do. Can't remember who he uses though. Behind Maccas at Enfield is Scorpion Tint.

Why did you put the hole there Craig? Is that really the hottest area? Or you just picked somewhere easy? I was always hoping to get the Masa bonnet eventually... http://www.rhdjapan.com/masa-motorsports-m-tune-frp-aero-bonnet-hood-56834 So I finally moved the stepper motor for the boost controller, cut almost half a metre out of the hose to the actuator, which was good. Others are *slightly* longer, so I'll test it tomorrow.

I don't know what youre talking about... Maybe try this to clear it, and if it reappears look into what Jules was saying? Thanks for that info Jules, but I knew what caused mine - not clipping the wire on when I removed it to fit the cruise control. I fixed it, but the light doesn't clear itself even if there is no longer any fault.

Theres a crap aftermarket surround and a decent one. I think it was the Metz one that was rubbish? PM "Tommy Kaira R33" - Brad knows which is which.

Posted up on the Stagea Facebook group, figured this should be here too. Zeroed out my airbag light! FINALLY! Leon can stop worrying, since he broke it Turn the key to the on position and watch the airbag light. It should stay solid for 5-7 seconds, then turn off, then start to flash. To reset the light, turn the key to on (without starting the car), watch the airbag light stay solid for 5-7 seconds, and as soon as the airbag light goes out, turn the key to the off position. You must make sure you turn the key to off before the light starts flashing, or you have to start again. You need to repeat this 5 times, then start the car. You should see the light stay on solid for 5-7 seconds, then turn off. The flashing airbag light should be no more! Apparently this is the same procedure the V35 guys use, and has worked for a couple of us now. Good luck!

I can't remember Ben, but I do remember thinking I'd been supplied the wrong height springs. Just play with the perch collar and you'll get it.

Which bonnet is that Craig? Getting copies made?

That would be good. Translated manual isn't as stupid as it sounds. There was a mob in kiwi land that was working on it allegedly, but seen no results.

Do you have a translated workshop manual Pom?

They must of. A couple of people have been caught with VQ25DD Impul ECUs by mistake.

Why else would he drive a Fiat Punto GT - not exactly thick on the ground in AU.

Not sure which HKS boost controller you were working with Brad, but it doesn't specify 100cm as an ideal length, just says as short as possible. I remember when it was plumbed in I wasn't sure if the hoses would be too long. Not too had to run it on the other side of the engine bay for now, worth a shot, thanks!

Both look right. You'll need two sets of bolts, one for camber and one for toe. I wouldn't buy either from there. Coz is great to deal with but they're pretty pricey.

Was still getting spiking, just not as bad. Did a full reset of the EVC, and redid the setup. Now seems to hold 17.5psi fine. Now to see if I can lower the boost and keep it working. Might need a different spring.

think its similar to Mines, Nismo etc.Retune for more powahs, more boosts, less throttle restriction and less speed limiters.

you don't need it Theo, enjoy your F-Con!

Anyone want some Impul power... http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/JDM-01-05-NISSAN-STAGEA-V35-M35-PM35-250RS-VQ25-MI-Power-IMPUL-ECU-Computer-RARE-/321050747784?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4ac01da388&_uhb=1#ht_3466wt_1016

That cooling setup is pretty awesome. Mine peaked yesterday at 88 degrees - ambient was 44! Do you have the airbox fitted Alex? Interesting that your intake temps are very similar to mine.

What is it doing anyway?

The plastic thing hose clamped in the middle of one of those short central hoses? Yes, kept that. When I was starting out I would actually cut the old hoses down the middle looking for other restrictors and found none.

Ran new vac hoses this morning for the MAP sensor, EVC, factory boost sensor and the hose to the power steering. Also trimmed a couple of hoses, replaced the hose to the BOV (which had a splice into it for the MAP sensor) and replaced a couple of hose clamps that looked like they'd lost their tension. Every hose is now cable tied or hose clamped. Will go for a drive soon - hopefully it's helped. There's only one more hose to replace, the one that goes really low down the drivers side. CBF in this heat, I'll deal with it later. Hopefully it's not the cause of the trouble.

Did Craig change your turbo and put in a highflow?

Stick with the big boys: Canon or Nikon. Both are excellent, pick what your mates have. Majority of mine have Canon, so I bought a Canon. I can borrow/try their lenses, get setup suggestions, etc. I had an Olympus. Biggest heap of shit ever. Returned it and got a Canon 50D, ended up selling that to upgrade to a 7D (so I'd have video). Always regretted buying the 50D with the kit lens (18-200), always wished I'd bought body only and then bought decent glass (I have a Sigma 17-55 f2.8, Canon 50mm f1.4 and a Sigma 120-400). My parents are currently looking at buying their first DSLR. They have an old film SLR but they've only ever had point and shoot digital cameras. I've been pointed in the direction of a 650D, looks pretty good but if anyone knows of something decent which is cheaper hopefully it'll pop up in this thread. Don't be afraid of buying second hand glass. I bought my 50mm second hand, looks a bit average but the glass is perfect and it was half the price of a new one. Same deal with the 120-400, although this was in brand new condition, being sold by some bloke that bought it, used it for a month, rented a Canon 70-200 f2.8, and sold the Sigma to buy the Canon. I got it for about 25% off. It's been a great, versatile lens for me but I'm about to do the same: sell it and buy the same Canon 70-200.

Ok. We have progress. Had a bag full of ebay goodies turn up today, some more vac hose, some t-pieces, cable ties and hose clamps. Replaced the 3mm hose from the end of the plenum to the stock boost sensor. Made no difference, but I'm glad the piece of crap that was on there is gone. Brittle thing was dying a slow, painful death. Then it occured to me randomly, while I waited to catch up with the SAUSA member that I bought a cheap boost gauge off of, maybe the boost controller is hooked up right, but the hose for the boost sensor part isn't? I'd connected the hose to what I thought was the factory boost sensor originally, in the pipe the BOV is connected to before the throttle body. Swapped this hose with the hose I'd set up for the currently unused MAP sensor, which was tapped into the line running from the plenum to the top of the BOV. Drove off. Pressures looked a lot better. Suddenly I have a feeling it wasn't reading vacuum in the original location, which it is now. I'll swap back over tomorrow or Saturday to double check this. Driving it, boost seemed to be well in check, about 15.3PSI (set to 15PSI low boost), hitting about 16.5PSI higher in the rev range. Pulled over, turned the boost control part of the EVC off, reset the peak boost, and drove off. So the actuator was the only thing controlling boost. Started by topping out at 15.5PSI, spiking to 17.9PSI higher in the rev range, before reaching 18.9PSI at one point. So two steps forward, one step back. I'll redo some of the vac line plumbing over the weekend, and replace the last remaining standard vac lines, then repeat the experiment. So far I feel like an epic dunce, but this is outweighed by the fact that this issue seems to be almost resolved, which is a lot better!

I really like this size converter Josh: http://www.rimsntires.com/specs.jsp Chuck in your standard wheel size and offset, and your standard tyre wheel and offset, and then throw in your new wheel size and offset. You can then muck around with tyre size until you get something reasonably common that puts the speedo about right. FWIW I'm running 245/40 18s on my 18x8s, but 245/45 is the better fit.