bigkevracer

It's pretty common. Just remember you won't have to do it once, it will be needed again. Mine is playing up again, about a year or so since I last did it.

I'm not completely ruling it out, however there are other far more likely suspects that are also easier to change that I'll be looking at first, like dodgy original vacuum hoses that aren't as sealed as I first thought. What PSI do you think this new wastegate spring should be at?

I think so Iain, and it was working correctly. But I'll look into that next. I'm pretty sure it isn't the dump pipe. The problem only manifested itself when the car was tuned (or being tuned), and there's no problem with the flow of Andrew's dump pipe design. I've fixed a couple of hose issues I've seen and now it's not so bad. Still spikes to 19PSI with or without the EVC on, however behaviour seems similar to Leon's: EVC off, it holds 15PSI until it hits about 5,500 rpm, then it'll go up to about 19PSI. With the EVC on, it'll hit 19PSI too. So I'll adjust the offset on the EVC and see if that makes any difference, and just replace the rest of the vac lines when they turn up. Rocker cover breather is getting replaced tonight.

OT, but if you work for Toyota you have driven an 86. Why do you still have the V35?

Haha gee thanks Scotty. Got some more vac hose on the way now, I'll get everything cable tied or hose clamped and replace the last couple of factory hoses. See if that improves anything.

I would have thought it needed something, but factory hoses didn't have anything on them. I'll put some cable ties on them for now.

After a boost gauge. Condition etc doesn't matter, I only need it to check the accuracy of my EBC so won't be mounting it in the car. Looking for something relatively quickly. If you have something send me a PM!

Replaced the little vacuum hoses at the top of the plenum, which attach to the fuel rail. Looks like they'd just got old and didn't seal properly anymore. Seems to be better, only spikes to 19PSI, regardless of whether the EBC is on or off. I'm going to start looking at other hoses, maybe it's just coincidental that all of this happened when it did. Couple of quick questions: Is it necessary to use hose clamps on these vacuum hoses? Is the factory heat sleeving on the hoses necessary? Thanks!

Worth doing. You should get a few guys, I've had a few messages about them. I think Paul said the guy would ship up to 10 or so sets for the same shipping cost.

My parents bought a Holden... once... Had such a run around from their bank, that by the time they'd organised that they realised Holden Finance was offering an identical interest rate. As a result the question is always asked at purchase time - going through the dealer can save some hassles and if it's the same interest rate why not? They're not always ridiculous 20+% interest rates.

I've got a spare from when I smashed one. Send me a PM or grab a set of 100mm Narva spotties and mod them to fit. That's what I did.

Just checked the hoses, everything looks right, and replacing the new additions made no difference. I did notice an air line to the FPR had blown off, after the other one had previously. I'll probably replace these hoses just in case. Next thing to do is remove the F-con. I figured it couldn't be tune related but maybe it can... Seems strange it's repeated with both actuators and with and without the EBC turned on.

So you're positive the spring is right Scotty? It's going in the dyno in the new year for a check, but I'd like to have this sorted first. What else should I be looking for? Brad, I'll give you a buzz when I get back from holidays.

Not sure, good thinking Craig, didn't start until the fcon was on it, but its under throttle, not just in between gears.

I have a calibrated wideband in the car. Tune seems to be rich. AFRs don't drop below 12 on WOT. I have no reason to think the boost controllers gauge isn't accurate, and its reading 19PSI with the controller turned off. Can you double check the spring please Scotty? If you're free during the week brad can you check the wiring please? Thanks, Ryan

Doesn't look like it Leon. All my searches bought up instructions for the old one. This is the one I have: http://www.hks-power.co.jp/en/products/electronics/boost/evc/6evc.html The issue was there before I switched to Scotty's actuator, but I didn't test the car at wastegate pressure before to know if it was spiking without the EVC.

I figured I'd start a new thread for this rather than clog up the "What did you do to your Stagea thread". I've had issues with boost since I had the car tuned. They had trouble getting it to make more than 7PSI, then after adjusting the EVC (Which they had no experience with), it made 15PSI, but then dropped down to 7PSI up top. They blamed the wastegate actuator, and I grabbed Scotty's wastegate mod. But from then on, I was having issues with boost spike/creep, which I wasn't having before. EVC wouldn't hold boost to what it was set to (16.5PSI), and would spike to 19-20PSI. Installed Scotty's wastegate mod yesterday, changed minimum boost pressure to new wastegate pressure (15PSI), and away I went. Spiking/creeping continued. Read everything I could online about the HKS EVC6 to see if it was a setup issue. Found a couple of tricks with setting the offset, and reread the setup instructions. Went out this morning and adjusted the offset. First set it to 130%, car hit 24PSI, despite being set at 15PSI wastegate, 16.5 target boost. Then set the offset as low as 40%, car hit 20PSI. Learnt in the book I could turn the EVC off but use it to monitor boost. Did this, so should be getting wastegate pressure I think? Was hitting 19.4PSI. I'm thinking it's a plumbing issue, but not sure what the issue is. Does anyone else have any ideas or experience?

He's saying if you don't want to take the advice that was given to you ages ago, how about you f**k right off and waste someone else's time.

Totes expensives. You know what isn't? R31. Just sayin'

I haven't got a boost gauge - well, I have the stock boost gauge, but it needs soldering up again and I don't think it goes high enough. Just took it for a short drive after resetting the boost controller to min 15PSI, and dialling the max down slightly to 16.5PSI. I'm not sure if it's boost spiking, or creeping, or wtf it's doing, but the EVC is reading boost hitting a peak of 20PSI - no higher. Staring to wonder if it's a plumbing issue. Trying to work out what I changed between everything working, and it first getting tuned. Only changes I can think of were the MAP sensor being tapped into the hose going to the top of the BOV, and fixing up the hose to the stock boost sensor, which had the EVC tapped into it. Everything else is the same.

We did that with Mike's (Impul535W) when he first got it. I had the fault, his cleared. Swapped back, he got a new relay, and the problem reoccured in his. His was something else, can't remember what they did to fix it. Hopefully you've fixed it for good!

I have Leon, although most are my own doing so can't entirely blame Mr Nissan. I find it hard to believe it would be the F-con, but like you said it is one of the last electrical mods. Scotty has been running the F-con with the cruise for a while now without issue, and I also find it hard to believe it'd be the mapping for the throttle in the F-con if the throttle completely dies. They wire in by plugging in between the ECU plug and the ECU, entirely piggy back, except for a MAP and IAT sensor harness in my case.

Actuator in. Would have been a 5 minute job if someone at Nissan had given us an extra inch of space around the actuator. I can see it'd be a nightmare job if you still had the stock intake, but Andrew at AM Performance designs all his stuff to work around bolts where possible. Looks like the boost controller needs an adjustment so that it knows the new actuators default is 15PSI. I'll give it a decent drive tonight and try and get that actuator into the mail tomorrow for you Scotty.

Easiest thing is to replace the sensor though, or that's what my thought was...

Cheers guys. I'm with you Dale, don't think it is cruise control. Doesn't make sense after a year of fault free running. On the other hand it is the easiest thing to test, and of Scotty thinks it could be a signal problem I'll give it a try. Just weird the problem didn't appear until the fcon went in...