DECIM8

I cant hear anything.. from what I figure knock/pinging is very definate sound and i cant hear a thing (the car is exceptionally loud) however I may think it could be my diff as it clicks - alot. The turbo comes in a 4G which i found weird but power is insane, He expects 270+ when we get the wastegate sorted which is impressive for a highflow. Guess Ill just have to take her back on saturday.. Oh I must mention driving around recorded 36 knock in a hour drive until I smashed it and it flew to 125.

We did a road tune and it was monitored with the laptop with a top knock at one stage of 40 which was fixed after this we pulled 18 knock as max... So the workshop did well.. they did both just obviously forgot to disconnect the pfc controller which is weird I guess. Can I rectify this by reseting the pfc with the laptop? BTW I didnt think Id need to upgrade my brakes but now I know I do.. Man its hard to pull up

So what are you saying?? The handcontroller is right telling me its knocking a 125? Or the hand controller is only showing the result because he had it hooked up at the same time? And from what understand as they had been in together and I got a reading of 125 does that mean my knock level is more like perhaps 25?

A few things to mention... Highflowed turbo pulled 262.5 with wastegate bleeding down to 16psi and will need to be adjustable.. However taking it for a road run the car monitors knock and reports 100-125 knock which is obviously bad but for some reason laptop returned the highest read of 18-20 knock.. What should I trust? Should I put her on another dyno? Cheers

Just spotted a R34 GTT Black in colour drive through chatswood with P plates with a Do Luck front bar, If your on here please PM me how you find that bar It looks great on the car and Im throwing up getting one. Secondly where you got it would be great too. BTW it looked damnnnnnn clean Cheers

^ Took my Mechanic 20 minutes and $75 from my pocket.. I suggest a mechanic lol

Get your wallet out and ask them to fit them up.. enjoy the labor cost.. FYI look into a Fibreglass GTR kit in IMPUL.. it looks best.. no doubt.

Id grab a Safc Neo (prefered and better on R34s) expect 300-400 bux and watch the car turn into a weapon.. If you want to perhaps find yourself some injectors and a turbo down the track grab a Emanage Ultimate.. Driving around with those mods is only benefiting the government and fuel stations..

Heater pipe is a non technical term which refers to several of them I guess... however it only had a part number goto nissan and get the engine diagram for that part of the engine and check it out.. Thats what I did. Then order the part.. Or remove/order/replace.

Very common problem with skylines and nissan in general.. It is most likely the metal pipe which attached to the block (its not running out of it just bolted to it) you will need it on a hoist and a damn long extension once you get the starter out. FYI Cold welds will not work.. Welds will but the part was only $50 from nissan for my R34 so cheap as.

Prob a sensor uplugged install anything lately? Boost controller perhaps?

Hey bud.. Please refer to the NSW section and threads created in regards to this by me... Also http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Wh...op-t228238.html Although not much help yet.. CRD is not the best.. No one is the best.. They all have benefits and disadvantages. It has to be said.. As its the only honest answer..

Tempting .. Nice interior btw ..l will let you know by the weekend if they are hanging around

Wouldnt you say that the result is due to the dual solonoid? Damn lucky I run this setup Edit = was running and its already been mentioned.

damn.. oh well next time

What brand is this? Are they ADR approved?

Its the lifters... Using a higher grade oil say 10-40 or 15 (wouldnt go higher) will stop it. I must add ive just got this problem and It was due to the car running extremely rich and fouling the oil, thinning it out anyway.. Im actually replacing it today as it was becoming more noticable. Id also mention your car most likely has not done the recommended KM. The gasket problem mentioned above does not particularly form as a tapping sound more a hissing sound or squeel.. Just like a fuel pump of course this depends on your particular leak.. tapping could be a lose turbo but its very noticable. When it all comes down to it.. It could also be your injectors as they do tap .. but I doubt it unless you've upgraded. My money is on the lifters as its the most common noise complaint with skylines .. Cheers

Yes thankfully Anthony from Dahtone is coming to help me out tommorow which is a big ask and I cant recommend the bloke enough.. Anyway thanks for your comment.

After Spending a whole day trying to knock apart a metal cat (its the worst job you could imagine, and it wasnt even mine!!!) I went for a drive and found smoke fuming from the engine bay, then took off (idling maybe 20 seconds) to pull over and noticed a puddle about 30cm squared.. thinking the worst checked the oil press and its still flowing thankfully it wasnt the oil.. But it was the injectors they were spraying fuel everywhere the all over the engine thankfully not spraying over to turbo/manifold but lets say it looked like a tap on 3/4 and I wasnt happy. I was driving for perhaps 10-15 mins before I knew about this would it have causes any damage even though it had not registered more than ussual knock? Knock is a killer ive heard it before but unsure if it needs to register on the power fc to screw a cylinder? Cheers P.S I cant stess enough this is not a drip drop leak its like spraying a paint can x4

Why is everyone asking for a spin in my coilovers? Has someone started a thread I missed? Yes everyone who wants a drive in my car can jump in . Greddy type s'sssssssss Since Dave asked for a R33.. He misses out :)

You've said it.. Your strapped for cash hence your interest. If you have plans for track use/performance you wont get much/any.. I currently use used tyres so I could put aside more for mods. Now that its done Im going to put some great tyres on to give me maximum grip. Up to you, but if you want any performance from the tyre the only type you'll get is longevity as they've gone hard. FYI I picked up mine for $150 for x2 so pretty good steal.. Cant turn that down. yours seems costly

FYI a key cutter will most likely have something to match the frequency.. you just need to know the freq.

Yeah cutting disk works but im an accident prone freak so I tend not to use them as they seem to fly close to body parts when they break lol. Just dont use a jigsaw got damn that went badly.

None Call Sydney Car Check.. Not well known on this forum but very good.. I got them to check out a R34 I was going to buy.. They test paint, look for rust, replaced parts, signs of dodgness really and they claim they arnt swayed by bribes. Run out of sutherland yet they will come to you and fax the report to you after it is done (after 5 pm I remember) P.S this place is not like NRMA its a detailed 250point (or something crazy) check. (02) 91530888

Use a dremel.. Use a sanding head (the ones made from stone material) and cut away what needs to be.. Use masking tape to cover the parts surrounding so it wont shatter the cover coat. its that easy You can also use a drill, tape the drill button to on.. lock it in a vice and use it like a lave.