jrm

What condition is the carpet in? Is it the same color between GT and GTT? Postage cost to 5025? Do you have the passenger-side rear door factory actuator?

It's fine to think they're cool - but it doesn't make them any more legal on a street driven car in Australia.

Well I'll writing this from mallala on my iPhone - seems like a decent night - been meaning to come and check the drift pracice out for a while ....

They're a really nice case. My partner just built one and added lots of extra noctua fans to it in all the extra spots. It's a nice subtle case. I'm a big fan of the old Antec Sonata III, and if I ever wanted more hard-drive bays to replace my sonatas - I'd probably go this case for the extra-subtle look, and yet lots of capability and cooling. I've been very impressed. (I have one sonata 3 with vmware C2Q 3 x1TB RAID5, one with C2Q 1x500GB windows 7 workstation, and Lian Li Armorsuit PC-80B with 16 drives as fileserver)

These are the same sort of figures I'm seeing on my R34, and getting very worried on the very hot days getting to 100 or higher (and the clutch fan sounding uber-noisy when it kicks in)... I've been contemplating taking the car to a radiator specialist to check the radiator out. I'll also be changing the water pump in the 100,000km service coming up.

... so you made a car that's now technically illegal rather than fix the problem? Isn't this just going to cost you more money putting it all back in the long run when you run into a RWC or defect check etc?

Cross Rd and Main North are anywhere near each other now? o.O You mean Grand Junction and Main North?

Angelecles, Would you consider a small run (or even one ;>) of making these for other people?

eh .. girls are overrated

See above; Simple answer - Nope.

What about a faulty / modified factory boost solenoid? (The one that would normally bleed 2psi above 4500rpm). The fact that it went back to 5psi (wastegate pressure) at one point smells a bit fishy and points at this. I would imagine it's possible to unplug the factory boost solenoid to test this? Can anyone confirm? (Sorta opposite of the grounding trick to keep it open under 4500rpm)

.. was starting to wonder if I was the only one ..

They're probably sick and tired of it coming up as I am. I bit this time, I'm sorry. Basically - use the search function - it's been discussed numerous times. I'm not starting yet another pointless conversation on something that's been discussed a lot of times before and always ends badly.

That's actually a myth, propogated by people like you.

Oooh vented guards? ... that's hot. I've been looking into options for vented guards, but they all seem to be FRP. Apparently Regency won't pass FRP panels, and you can have insurance probs - so I've had to put that idea on hold. Have you had any issues?

MissR34 - has the car changed since your sig? I don't think I've seen it since the last changes - do you have pics?

Fitting an R34 GTR MFD to a GT/GTT really isn't that bad in terms of wiring. I have one in mine (GTT). For a GT it wouldnt be all that useful as you'd be missing a lot of the required sensors (boost, oil temp, etc) - though I guess you could retrofit them. There are plenty of threads on these forums about doing it, mostly reference japanese sites. I found it quite straight forward anyway

Interested, but I hate to imagine what they'll cost. I also seem to recall DAN666 is in early stages of doing a kit for R34 coupes/sedans LED conversion...

Have you tried Media Player Classic? it's pretty win - nice and simple like vlc, but I've had way less issues. As a user of vlc for a long time I've finally stopped using it after just too many crashes/bugs.

Followed a silver r34 sedan with gtr front bar, vented front guards, nismo rear bar and coupe wing on my drive up to Hahndorf this afternoon .. Seemed nice, except the auto box ... Almost exactly same body mods I want to mine - I guess my idea wasn't that unique lol

Careful of those 'white' LEDs - Regency made me remove mine claiming they were 'too blue' .. (yours definitely seem to have hints of blue in them..)

HICAS starts kicking in above 60kph. If your hicas steering sensor is mis-aligned to the steering rack, you'll find the steering wheel will slowly 'roll over' above 60kph (and will snap straight at 110kph when HICAS turns off). I could imagine, depending on how badly it was mis-aligned that it could get a bit dangerous in the wet. Certainly the 'snapping straight' at 110kph as it turns off can be dangerous even in the dry. If you think this sounds consistent with what you're seeing, you can take the car to Nissan to get them to use CONSULT to check the HICAS - they can check the steering angle sensors vs the steering rack and should be able to re-align it. Alternatively, you could just use a HICAS lock bar - though in some states you may run into problems with this without it being an engineered modification.

I'd understood that whilst they fit, the standard plenum / intake arrangement wouldn't work with it because of the change in the position of the 'hump' in the RB26 covers?

I whited it out because I don't really want people knowing where I work and where I did that test. Yup - the reason it was 'only' 70mbps is because that's all staff get to their desktops / laptops. Your friend probably works the same place I work at and did that from. On a related note, if he is working there - policy changes mean he has about about 10 days till that privilege is taken away from all staff. I know my personal machine will be removed by that time.

Needs moar bandwidth!