STATUS

cool, i will get something together screen grab wise. As far as removing the aac valve it is possible to tune around the stalling, i fit ALOT of GIZZMO Phenolic intake gaskets to race engines and on most of these engines especially SR's, the AAC valves are water fed and referrenced to compensate for temp (temp and intake = bad so it gets the ass ).... i remove the AAC quite regulary (on rb's too) but in doing so you need to find the perfect balance between timing around the idle point (drop in big timing numbers below the idle RPM to force the engine to increase rpm back to its normal position) and you need to increase the static throttle postion (on the linkage). It is a bit tricky but by the sounds of your tuner is on that path already.

L2 is gods gift to RB20... end of story.

i reckon you will still be over legal Db, but they did a fantastic job.

i get these ones : http://motors.shop.ebay.com/merchant/pnt_performance the other ebay ones (Greddy Copies) ive used are shit, i will NOT fit them regardless... ive seen quite a few leak coolant into Number 1 runner and various others crack after a few months (dont ask me how in the world they could make it so crap that it cracks but they did)

im an ecu broad minded female.... will do anything.

ah im probably to far away i'm on the other side of town, south dandenong, shops called status tuning.

well its depends on your setup, cams, turbo application and of course budget, the greddy one works well and i have never had an issue with one, the hypertune stuff is killer but more expensive and would suit somehting more radical. The cheap thai stuff on ebay seems to work real weel on RB20 but im yet to use one on a rb25.

yeah they all work the same, i have no issues with them, i always tune with my GIZZMO knock controller for extra sensitivity but but the stock ones work fine, in fact (for those with RB25) the numbers on the ACTUAL GTR, GTST and SR sensors are the same i know the RB20 ones are old school but they still relay the same info..... the good old RB20DE still uses the old school sensors in the R33

Yeah the setting were no dramas, just some-one with itchy fingers had a play whilst i was away cleaning my hands . i have my own shop and dyno facility. I have included some pics of the install. We fitted it into the ashtray (do lots of custom work) so it was hidden, after the install the lid sat over it and it all looked std. There are plenty of decent shops around what area are you?

Yeah good article but it is about RE-RINGING an already worn engine, not a fresh build.

Yeah good article but it is about RE-RINGINGand already worn engine, not a fresh build.

tacker pull the 02 sensors... they are pointless in most performance cars anyway (if the tuner has done his job, not just the power curve ). If the car is properly tuned they are obsolete and you will still get better fuel consumption (i know its a race car) For now though: Turn off 02 feed back and disconect sensors and see if problem persists, if it goes away then no harm no foul, just check your tune around the cruise area and around idle If your not sure which areas i can pull a screen shot from dtatlogit and highlight the areas to check over. I have plenty of cars without 02 sensors getting better than std economy.

Ther spec S is an entry level unit and will struggle with a turbo that isnt well setup boost conrol wise, Honestley in the blitz range you would need the spec-r. the best unit on the market is the IDIII but between the Spec-s and Profec the Profec wins hands down. i just finished a review on the HKS evc6 in another thread on this page.

Ok now i must admit the first few moments with this kit gave me the shits as the instructions were more confusing than helpful it turns out some-one had played with it while i was washing up.... a simple full system reset and all was good. After the firsat few hiccups the unit is actually VERY easy to use, it holds boost extremely well and is nice and clear to view peak boost ect. Wiring was imple and THR, RPM and SPD was the only other input needed to make it fully functional. It allows for BOOST vs RPM, THR or SPD the only down side is it could not match the GIZZMO unit (about 200rpm slower) for ramp rate even after countless differrent settings. i have attached a boost comparison. i would rate this unit as an 8/10. The GIZZMO unit (red line) had a slight problem holding boost up top on this run but subsequent runs had it fixed easily but i forgot to save the run for a $399 (full retail) boost controller it actually outgunned the HKS On the attached Dyno sheet (ingore bottom specs) The thin red line is the GIZZMO unit and the orange is the HKS. I really wanted to do a back to back with the IDIII (blitz) as it is my favourite due to past results but i was out of stock but based on these tests i reckon it would also ramp quicker than the EVC6 as ive upgraded a few GIZZMO controllers up to IDIII's (against my advise) and had zero improvements.

yup and the innovate is already preprogrammed as an input on option 1 and 2. You just need to find or buy a plug which fits the front yellow sockets this allows auto-tune and also killer datalogging features.... right down to viewing data in graph form and it will then highlight the relevant cells in the map..str8 off the datalog screen...makes for awesome tuning resolution. As the emanage has dual ign and fuellng maps you can actually tune in 32x32 instead of 16 by 16

let you know in an hour or so i have a killer S15 here that i just finished installng a HKS EVC 6 (had it on dyno with various other controller before this on) into.... going on dyno now. will keep you posted. in my experience the stepper is as good as any other single sonelnoid controller out there it is just the dual solenoids which are slightly superior.

agreed i do ALOT of the rb20 remaps on RB25, no loss anywhere, just a few tricks to make it work perfectley.

Wheezys actually worked real well, i was happy witht eh resuls on the dyno. i would be happy to use someting like this on my own cars.

^^ how much power you making? i found the std rail good for mid 300's.... it was all the stupid little restrictors (same as GTR boost restrictor) and dampers in the fatctory fuel lines that cause the restrictions.

exactly.

yeah the PFC works with a few tricks, i have yet to play with all the e-manage auto hoopla so cant comment.

just go to ecu but usually nissan rpm signal wire is yellow with a red stripe.

I did not look at his graph but 12.5:1 should be fine provided the rest of the tune is up to par. i have tuned plenty of GTR's and RB's for track work that see way harder times than a daily driver. i have also had some big number daily driver GTR's on my dyno leaner than that... all come from probably the most respected GTR tuning shop in aus.... hardly a concern.

Agreed ^^ i have done this mod before as customer had suplied me a HKS rail supposedly for GTT (bought from reputable internet supplier) but he had already had BLITZ injectors fitted to suit std rail... those injectors are the same as the first set of HKS injectors martin posted (99% of jap injectors are the same factory so brand is irrelevant). The rail was designed for the gtr type injectors so i had to swap his BLITZ GTT ones out for some BLITZ GTR one i had laying around and wire up some resistors (he REALLY wanted the wrong rail fitted, would have been cheaper to source the correct one to start with ). I know you say you have sard injectors, posting some pics would instanly clarify the issue you have..... 0.5mm is hard to see by eye but would make that 0.5mm o-ring hole will world of differrence in installed height as the two kits have differrent height pedestals as martin mentioned.

i hooked GCG as a TRUST approved repairer years ago as i could not get reliable repairers locally, so if you find they are shaged they will rebuild them using the correct parts.... other shops i have used in the past had fitted wheels from other turbo's etc and machined the housings to suit as they could not source the geniune wheels or housings etc.... but with the T517z's the wheels should be sweet and maybe just need cartridge change.