PRO_32

just run an aftermarket (larger and more effective) oil cooler and do away with that messy complicated factory setup.

i am doing this rightg now aswell try searching there is stacks of info on this conversion all your questions will be answered..

Ah yes i see what you mean i have stripped all but knock sensors and air reg wiring away from rb25 side loom. pretty much looks like your pic now. when you say"you still need to connect all the other ECU wires like start signal (pin 43), tacho (pin 7), fuel pump relay (pin 18) etc." Do you mean from ecu to in cabin loom??? not sure i understand what you mean? Sorry for the Noobness, Very much a greenhorn with wiring, However determined to do it all myself as with nearly everything with my car. so your help is greatly appreciated. Cheers Andrew.

ok it's an series 2 rb25 i got. 1. I dont know how much of your guide applies to me now.? gotta do more investigation.. Any thoughts. 2. Removed side loom off rb25 seems like it only services starter, gearbox sensors, altenator and 2 other plugs (which i dont know their intended use) does not look like it will affect me anyway. 3. Removed altenator also. Gonna use rb20 altenator as using rb20 side loom. 4. Factory oil cooler/ coolent heater. removed. Unlike the rb20 oil pressure sender, the rb25 one is located in the cast cooler fitting. however looks like there is a tapped thread that can be used just above the factory unit. ( will post picks 2morrow after work. 5. Will probably use rb20 knock sensors havent stripped back enough of the loom yet to decide (But thats what predator said to do.) 6. hicas now completely removed was gonna run cooler for P/S of rear pump. (as per S/K instructions) but have now decided to ditch rear pump and run a cooler inline from P/S rack return to res. Reason for that is to simplify the whole thing also thats where the heat will be generated so cooling it upon return to resevoir seems to make sense. 7. Removed ABS ( i know alot of ppl are against this) unit completely jus gotta get some non abs brake lines for the engine bay now. Doint know if i gotta change booster or not will figure out eventually i spose. 8. pizza has arrived so will pick it up l8r..

Thanks guys mucho helpo.. however Looking at the photo of the 25 loom seems like it has more plugs than mine. Off memory i havent looked at it for a couple of days now and it's too cold to go to hte garage now. Could this mean that i couuld possiby have a seried 2 rb25?? Thanks again for your help I jus printed out your guide and will look over it 2morrow guessing (after jus a quick scan) a bit of it might not aply to me as it's track car and things like a/c and such do not apply.. Cheers Andrew...

BHDave thank you for the speedy reply. I have gone through Predator's tutorial, (amongst others) and all credit to him as it's mega informative. And the most comprehensive i have come across. not jus on SAU but all over internet land.lol 1. When you say Ran them seperately (knock sensors) do you mean you traced where the original rb20 knock sensors run to and then Ran the RB25 sensors to that same point, Be it relay box, Kick panel inside cab, or be it anywhere else. 2. Speaking of The oil pressure sender On the RB20 It screw's straight into the block. However on the RB25 it screw's into the cast Fatcory oil cooler. I dont wanna run the factory oil cooler and filter As I have a remote filter and cooler setup. And wanna simplyfy and remove that cooler and all associated plumbing any experiance on it, OR idea's. 3.Predator's tutorial whilst comprehensive unfortunatly didnt delve to deeply into the wiring side of things. OR maybe it's jus that im totally hopeless with wiring and i need spelled out to me as clear as day. Cheers Andrew...

Im also in the middle of this conversion. Did you plug the the starter and altenator into the rb25 loom or the existing rb20 loom thats not part of the rb20 engine loom that stayed in the engine bay after removing the rb20 ( it goes to the relay box) Also where i unplugged the loom in the cabin kickpanel there is a hell of a lot more plugs than what there is oin the rb25 loom to replace it.??

PM's Replied.

yep it's stainless, Was used on my car for about 4 months so jus the heat changed color thats all. Can pay postage for you.. PM if your keen. Cheers Andrew

Open to offers guys...

PMS replied to..

bump again

bumpske.

PRICES dropped

PFC SOLD

Keep hunting they are 32's Sorry.

Will get pics of the seats Up tonight. The Passenger is in really good nick, the driver's seat has the usual tear on the outside bolster I'll get pics up tonight and you can see for yourself. Cheers..

Jus a Couple of things for sale for now... RB20/25 Lowmount Stainless Steel Exhaust manifold. $350.00 RB20 AP Engineering Power FC SOLD (jus got a phone call of a mate who wanted to slap me one at that price so yeah adjusted) RB20 Custom Made Inlet Manifold (made by Mark $900.00 At HILLS Motorsport) 6x 440cc/min GTR Injectors All flow tested and cleaned 15 000km's ago $350.00 GTR driver And Passenger seats. $500.00 Also a Lot of interior Stuff SO jus ask.

FARK man i remember when 300 was an unobtainable number for a 20... geez wonder what 370 plus at reaers out of a 2L would be like to drive.? Roy i wonder if you know what the rev limit was set at to make that power. I assume dyno pull was in 4TH gear jus cant recall what 200kph in 4th equates to engine revs?? (half pissed. Gotta love the sphincter of the universe and coke )lol

FREE bump. Good onya for having a go mate... Not all things need Mega Buck workshops.

Dare i say 32 with a 25 in it? It's the question i've been asking myself for a couple of months now my setup is great if it came on 1000rpm earlier it's jus tooooo DANM laggy when you try to make any reasonable kinda power.. So ithink its either smaller turbo or larger motor. The only other way i can think of is maybe cams race fuel and a sit7 load of ignition advance?? SO CONFUSED.. anyway sorry for verbal dribble in your thread dude.

HAHAHAHA.. What a friggin TOOL....

sorry i dont think the zero 1 is Damper adjustable just ride height, The zero 2 is height and damper adjustable and the Zero2R has an inverted shock.

Yeah the cars jus gotten to the point where i dont drive it on the road at all anymore jus to much hassle, and no point really. Hard to justify the price of rego for the few outings it gets to OP and workshops. Do i need a certain CAMS liscence or is L2S enough to obtain race/rally rego. Cheers.

So can a registered and complied vehicle be deregistered and then re- registered as race rally use..