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hal32

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About hal32

  • Birthday 24/04/1980

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    bRICEbane

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    hallam

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  1. dual clutch transmissions etc. all sound great and that, but one possible issue is that we'll end up with a market flooded with cheap and nasty dual clutches and even more cheap and nasty tiptronics which are all going to suck, and no option of just standard manuals until you get top-end. it's not hard to build a good manual box cheaply... maybe by the time i'm looking for a newer car i'll have heaps of cash and won't have to worry.
  2. check your battery etc connections too... i had a similar prob last week over going over the mother of all bumps. thanks dept of main roads... (also killed a head light bulb)
  3. trucks way over the speed limit? wow. how is this news?
  4. you'd better stir in some vegies or all that rice will taste very bland...
  5. jaycar sells master solenoids for about $25 from memory or slaves (pass side) for about $15. sure it's not as pretty as standard but you won't notice with the door card back on. $65 sounds a little excessive...
  6. this feature is two of four count-down modes. you need to be in the count-down mode, p+t (i think, but it might be s+t) cycles thru the modes. then you need to press p+s to cycle thru the count-down modes. there is preset 1 and 2, and auto lo and hi. preset 1 is a preset time that is smaller than preset 2. these presets stay the same and always count down that set amount (say 30sec vs 1min). the auto settings also have preset times but they are a base to which the greddy timere adds secs depending on revs and driving time. auto lo starts adding time on to the lo preset at 3k rpm and auto hi does the same but starts adding at 2k rpm. these modes are a great idea but are excessive when you do long drives. when i drive from brisbane to toowoomba the auto lo gives you about 10 min, and the auto hi gives you so many minutes the display won't show the exact no. just says 10+ or 20+ or something... the rpm thing your talking about lets you use the timer as a rev counter. both these features are redundant if you're rev wire is not connected.
  7. i'll be there - i want to see some more cinnamon based antics...
  8. hey guys i'll be there, +1. we're keen for dinner beforehand, if that's still happening see you all then
  9. oops. i uploaded the original again... try again
  10. surely this would mean that it's illegal to drive with your hands on the gear stick? i swear 90% of people only have one hand on the wheel - even when they're not using the other one for anything (visible)
  11. nup. only just got into it. i mustn't be doing it right. i got the bc639 --> i've got the collector grounded, the base connected to the lock wire (live when locked) and the emitter on the trigger wire. so far the windows aren't going and the pass door locks aren't following the drivers side lock.
  12. i had this a few weeks back, but it fixed itself before i got a chance to take a look at the back. i think i must have had a poor connection at the back. pull your h/u out and check your wiring... (otherwise just whack it a bit)
  13. p plates have nothing to do with young drivers and disciminating against them - it's so everyone (police and public) know that those drivers are inexperienced. i'm not saying they're bad drivers - but they do have less than four years exp, compared to ten or twenty or whatever. if you were to wait til you were 40 to get your licence you would still have to wear p plates...
  14. i was using the remote but my alarm/turbo timer means that when i lock the car the windows don't activate until after the timer finishes, and then several seconds later the immoliser kicks in. i don't want to walk off with the windows down. it also means that if you turn the car off the windows go up when the immob starts automatically. which sucks if you're waiting in the car. that's why i'm changing to the door locks themselves - that way they only lift when i lock the car - remote or key and not when i don't want them to...
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