PM-R33

Hmmm house deposit or that engine setup......

PM Sent

Nah they are definetely RB25 HKS Cams 256/264 (Part #'s RN172 Inlet, RN175 Exhaust) but it is still standard springs. The springs is the only thing that is still a bit questionable, would it really cause the car to run that crap though?

So maybe Advan ment check that they aren't stuffed and are still holding pressure?

Warlord has the same cams as me 256/264, here's a link to his thread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Mo...&hl=warlord His dyno graph is amazing and i want the same thing out of mine lol. Just need to solve this f***ing problem first!

Hmm so hydraulic heads dont have any sort of shims or anything in them? Only solid lifters? I wonder why Advan would say to check the valve clearances then

Yep it does that and you can also add the gizzmo launch control thing that they sell but you can't add it to the cheaper one.

Ok i just had a better look at the service manual and it appears that the valve clearances are the same for the RB25 and RB26, ill be damned. I would have been 100% sure they would be different, can anyone confirm this?

I thought you place a fealer gauge underneath the lobe of the camshaft and then depending on the outcome of that you replace the thickness of the shims? Isn't that it or am i thinking of something completely different?

Hmm very interested. Will you ship tyres interstate or is it only instore sales?

I had a quick search on here and i can't find it. What is the RB25DET valve clearance ment to be? I found the RB26 one which is 0.42-0.48mm on the intake and 0.35-0.41 on the exhaust but obviously the RB25 will be different becuase it is hydraulic. I just wanna check it with the HKS cams and see if this is the cause of all this f***ing around. Thanks guys.

Post up pics!

Autobarn sell them, off the top of my head the cheaper one is $199 and the one with recall is about $299 i think.

My friend had a quick talk to the guys at Advan today and told them the situation. Without seeing the car its obviously hard for them but they dont think its a valve springs problem so it shouldnt be valve float, binding or a damaged valve but they are more thinking along the lines that maybe the valve clearances aren't correct and i should check them first and maybe have to shim or deshim the head. Could this be the cause? Does any one know how to properly check valve clearances with a fealer gauge?

Part number should be the right one as the only difference on the RN175 and the RN176 is that the drive for the CAS is different, the later 97 model R33's have the CAS off of the R34, the plastic black one which is different to the R32 and the R33 one which has a half moon shaft thing. So 1: Camshafts are 100% correct ones RN172 intake and RN175 exhaust 2: 100% Dialled in correctly at TDC (view pics on previous page) 3: Definetely not a boost/tune/spark/fuel issue as all of this has been checked over and over again Could be due to 1: Something is wrong in the valve train, either springs or valves. Even though i havn't read about one person on SAU having dramas with this i could always be the first one 2: There is something physically wrong with the camshafts, bad casting or something, which in that case i am flying to Japan and kicking some ones head in at HKS 3: It's something completely different that no one i know has been able to think of When we last tuned my car before the cams we could keep putting more and more timing in and the car just physically would not have any pinging, we than ran a bit less because it was in summer and we didnt want to risk it pinging on a hot day in traffic. It's now pretty cool and we cannot run any timing in it what so ever without it pinging hardcore, how on earth do bigger camshafts cause the engine to ping so easily and make crap power without even coming on strong?

Pretty sure Gizzmo is from NZ. They are a good shift light though, just get it.

Looks good man.

Yeah true. There's two outcomes by putting the stock cams back in 1) It fixes the problem and goes back to the way it was and ill just need a quick retune so it wont cost me too much but then ill never know why the HKS ones did what they did and the whole thing would have been a wate of money and time or 2) The car still has the same problem back on the stock cams and therefore its going to be something in the head meaning i still have to rip the head apart. I suppose its the only choice i have unless some one can think of something else.

Plugs are BKR7E so 0.8mm gap, same ones i have always used. Only fuel i have used is BP Ultimate or Shell V Power. Hmm interesting theory, havn't heard of that before. There is something definetely wrong in the combustion chamber that is causing it to lose so much power and the fact we cant run anymore than 2 degrees advanved ignition timing without it pinging is the most bizare thing.

Its just so f***ing annoying not knowing what it is. I don't know wether to a) pull these cams out and put the standard ones back in and hope that it goes back to the way it was or b) if its a spring or valve problem rip the head off and work the head and again hope that it fixes it. If i do that i might aswell get it port/polished, 3 angle valve job, new springs, 1mm oversized valves, headgasket etc etc. But then there is 3-4grand. I just have no clue where to start

Car spent a few days at the tuner and its still extremely down on power compared to what it was. 20psi 230rwkw, 14psi 200rwkw. No clue what is causing it but i give up, im chucking the standard camshafts back in. Ok i just double checked one thing, the exhaust camshaft that i got off of slide is a 2202-RN175 however nengun lists the exhaust cam for a series II R33 a a 2202-RN176. Says one is pre 97 and the after 97, what the hell is the difference between them. Mine is a 96 model so im assuming it is the correct cam? EDIT: My bad, i forgot about the different CAS on the later model R33's having the R34 CAS. So yeah definetely the right cams.

yeah what the hell is with the ride height? Its like 2mm off the ground, is it on airbags?

That is so hot.....

What's with everyone having T3/T4 turbos on their car these days? Is there a sale on at supercheap for $50 turbo's or something? To answer your question though, something like a 38mm wastegate will be more then enough and obviously you will need an exhaust manifold made for an external gate.

Good old global system, doesn't take forever to search for stuff on it at all..