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PM-R33

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Everything posted by PM-R33

  1. Post up pics when you get them installed. I've been thinking about getting a carbon lip made up or some canards on the side like these:
  2. Well what do you know, you might have solved it. Took the CAS out and it had bits of metal shavings in it and the half moon was snapped inside of it and it feals really rough to spin the drive. Replaced it with a mates CAS as nissan wasnts $1200 for new one (f**k that) and it seems to drive a lot better. Putting it back on the dyno tomorrow to see if this could have been the culprit. God i hope that was the problem all along. Thanks a lot man
  3. You can never have to much carbon
  4. Ok did the compression test and everything seems fine, all 6 around 135-140psi. Spark plugs and tops of pistons all seem fine. The photos show that its all at TDC. The only other thing i can think of is when I installed the microtech ages ago I had to lock the timing and set it to 10BTDC. Since the belt and cams have been changed wether this has altered something, because when i put the timing light on the car last night it was no where near 10BTDC and i couldn't even adjust it so it got near 10BTDC. This might have something to do with it.... This has really stumped me, im nearly up to the point of ripping the cams out and putting the standard ones in there
  5. You'll find that freight charges will have a lot to do with that and also how often the said store buys from the supplier. Most suppliers will give better prices if you buy a lot from them.
  6. Haha it does look like smurf blood! Speaking of smurfs, isn't it their 50th anniversary or something, god that has been around for ages!
  7. Should be Australia wide since ours is having the sale here.....hmm i should probably get back to work lol.
  8. Yeah that's whats worrying me, wether the increase in lift on the exhaust side is causing a bad seating problem with the valves or something. It's only 9mm lift though which i've read is ment to be fine on the stock head. Ill take the plugs out tonight to do the compression test so ill try to elimante all that.
  9. We tried 14psi all the way up to 21psi. On 14psi it was barely making over 200kw on 21psi barely 230kw. Well the inlet cam gear can't be changed because i want to retain the VCT so only the exhaust cam gear could be changed. But i seriously doubt it would change that much, maybe it will but why? I've spent a lot of time reading over the threads on SAU from people with 256/264 cams and nearly all are set at TDC. The inlet cam is made for VCT so it is made to stay at TDC. So everything points at the exhaust cam.
  10. Well 255kw was on 17psi with no cams or head work and not much advanced timing cause it was summer. Surely with 20-21psi, the cams, head work, oversized valves, springs etc and a bit of timing i reckon 290+ should be achievable. Hell i'd love to do it just to see if it can be done. Back on topic though, I checked the cams last night and all timing marks are 100% on TDC, therefore its not an installation problem. So what the hell is going on with the car, it's driving me crazy. I'm going to do a compression test on it this arvo to see if maybe the valves aren't sealing properly. Could this really be because they are standard springs?!?! Theres heaps of people on here using standard springs on HKS cams and they run fine. Please help some one Sydneykid?
  11. Fair enough, will have to keep an eye out for it. Will autobarn have it for sale?
  12. When is this due to be released? Will it be sold with the magazines or seperate?
  13. Same as OEM ones i got told and no problems what so ever with them. Part number for my kit was IRK718 Side Feed Injector Kit Nissan/Subaru and for 3 kits (each kit did 2 injectors) was $33 Yours will be different because they are top feed but should be about the same price.
  14. Yeah there is, i got mine from a place named Petrojet or something along those lines up here in Townsville. Pretty much any place that sells oxygen sensors and fuel systems sells the orings aswell and they are a lot cheaper then from Nissan.
  15. Hmm yeah true, forumla 1 teams use them aswell i think. I swear i heard something about the use of Mahle pistons and something about them, ill find out later...
  16. Not that this has anything to do with RB engines, but ive heard that Mahle were great back in the day on old iron blocks but on modern alloy blocks they dont seal as well or something along those lines? I know our blocks are iron so maybe they are fine, but on something like a SR which has a allot block SP pistons are pretty much the pick of the bunch and most people i know use them over Arias, Mahle etc.
  17. Definetely dont need a N1 block. Standard block with forgies will be more than sufficient.
  18. Picked the car up just then and gonna take the timing belt cover off to again check the timing belt marks but im pretty sure they are spot on. After talking to my tuner for a while he's starting to think that maybe its a problems with the standard valves/springs either staying open or something.... Could this have something to do with it? We can't run any more then 2 degrees timing in it without it pinging and thats at 12.1 air/fuel ratios and its making bugger all power throughout the rev range on 20psi boost. Therefore something is definetely wrong. Maybe im going to have to take the head off and replace the valvetrain gear and while im at it clean up the head and aim for 300kw@wheels.... God these problems never end with cars
  19. Yeah Rb25 Gary. Hmm thats what i've been thinking the more i look at it, surely a small adjustment on a pulley couldn't be causing it to run bad. Ill pull all the covers off again and check everything but when it was put together the intake cam, exhaust cam and harmonic balancer were all lined up with the marks on the timing belt. Unless it has some how slipped a tooth or two now that it's been run in but i doubt that.
  20. Wow......thats impressive.....i think you just sold me into getting a wet shot lol
  21. We installed the new cams last week along with a timing belt, water pump etc. They are HKS 256/8.8 on the intake and HKS 264/9.0 on the exhaust. The cams were dialled in with the factory marks on the standard gears for top dead centre (same as the factory cams). Now the car ran fine..... Today it went in for the tune and once on the dyno we could see the power graph was all over the place with not much power and we couldn't put any timing into it without it pinging. Obviously the cams aren't dialled in correctly. Now since the intake cam is made for the VCT this should be in the correct position as you can't put an aftermarket cam gear in without losing the VCT. So it all points to the exhaust cam needing an aftermarket cam gear and dialling it in correctly, would this assumption be correct? If it does need an adjustable cam gear, does any one with these cams have a rough idea on what they should be dialled in to be correct? Your help would be greatly appreciated as i wanna get this car running ASAP and i need to know wether to buy an adjustable cam gear. Thanks guys
  22. Does any one have a dyno graph of a car before and after a nitrous setup, something like a 50 or 100 shot? Just curious to see what the power increase is like throughout the rev range.
  23. For only 300-350awkw you wont need the extra displacement for response, it is possible to have that kind of power with small aftermarket twins and still be responsive as hell. However yes it will help. Keep in mind though, for a 2.8L or a RB30 bottem end your looking at anywhere from $5000-$10000 depending on what exactly you want to do. Once you factor in fuel system, turbo (or turbos), ECU, Tomei 2.8 kit ($6000 approx), exhaust, piping, machining, balancing, gaskets, labour, tuning etc etc it starts to add up really quick....
  24. Personally i'd go CP pistons and i think a lot of people would agree. While your at it might aswell do the bearings (ACL race bearings or similar) and see what kind of state the rest of the engine is in. If it's all pulled apart might aswell do it all once now and save any hassels down the track.
  25. With a wet system, aslong as your fuel system can handle it, you don't need any additional tuning or anything do you? Just simple as hitting the nitrous and the ECU will know what to do?
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