RANDY

Carby cleaner was the most popular thing i've seen suggested. I'd also suggest contact cleaner (used for PCB's).

I guess we should issue the warning that if you make your own speaker pods, check your clearances, as a lot of speaker magnets will hit the window if not spaced properly. I bought Clarion 6.5" splits (about $200rrp), and they almost fitted perfectly. I had to bodge a little bit of it to make it sit inside the original speaker pods. If 7" speakers existed, they would have sat perfectly, but the pod was just too large for the 6.5's to go directly in. I think it's been asked many times before, but there doesn't seem to be one guaranteed fit for stock pods. The originals were supposedly 6x4" or something crazy like that.

Rather! Thanks mate, appreciated!

Yeah, the demister has an orange capped globe for when it is on (the little spot that lights up), and a blue capped globe for the picture of the windscreen. The hazard button only has one globe, which has a reddish cap on it. Unlike my A/C controls, I was able to gently work the caps off the old globes and reuse them (although the blue one tore a fraction). As far as the A/C globes go, i'm still at a loss. Without the caps (which totally tore when I removed them), I have a bright orange A/C unit. The Narva silicone caps are for 5mm globes, and the grain-of-wheat are 4mm, so the cap falls off easily. I was going to use superglue inside the cap, but i'm not sure what would happen with the heat of the globe. Jaycar have 12v LED's in red and yellow, but not clear or blue... otherwise that would have been great as there is no room to solder in a resistor with these little bastards. I might just order them from Nissan. They know nothing else exists. =-[

If it's going to slip, the engine will rev much quicker to redline, and you'll have stopped accelerating by 4000rpm i'd guess. It's a good point though! Misfiring will feel like you have switched the motor off, or it has stalled, and then it will come back alive. If you're still getting full noise from the motor when the power goes, then it could very well be a clutch issue. Especially if you whack it hard into the next gear and keep the boost semi-built up. Find a slight hill, get up to cruising speed in 4th, then put the boot right into it, watch the revs if it's safe, and see if they slip right through. That's one way, there's another that involves holding the brake and accelerator while in 1st or 2nd gear and cruising.

I wash with Meguire's purply-stuff that has wax built in. Looks good afterwards, but just like yesterday, it will rain the next day no matter what the forecast says. =-/ The built-in wax appears to work well, rain beads off the car rather well, but it invariably ends up being dirty where the water spots dry up.

I'm looking to do much the same thing! I'd really like to know what the intake temps are, and find a good location to mount something threaded. If you don't mind, mearcat, what kind of temp probe are you going to use? (and come round and make my engine bay as clean as yours!)

Both of mine had springs. The globe-size is 3mm diameter in both units. I bought some 12v 3mm globes with leads soldered onto them from Jaycar for two bucks, and it looks like they should work. The hazzard lights up an orangy-red! I'll try and put them back in tomorrow.

Oh, and when you say that the BOV is working, is it an atmospheric BOV? Might be worth a shot sticking a stock one on for a test?

Ah, might want to check that post about missfire around that rev-range? http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=32356 Your boost will be dropping off around that stage anyway, but if it's really noticeable, it might be another problem? You're not using a bleed-type controller are you?

Kinda blurry shot! Are they rubber? They *look* like the plastic ones that go on the front of the timing cover.

Some R33's had a dealer-optional central locking, which alarm-installers tap into. If the alarm was removed, then yeah, it could well be the problem right there!

Jah! Two plugs, one for the element, one for the bulb. They should just pull off the spade quite easily. If you need to remove it completely, for respraying or something, it's probably got a hex nut on the underside, which you'd need to unscrew. That's how generic replacements work anyway.

So where does the "no power" start? At redline before you push the clutch in, or at redline after you let the accelerator off, or after engaging second gear? Option one could suggest coilpacks or whatever the other causes are, the typical stuttering at a certain rev-spot (search for threads relating to this) Option two could involve an atmospheric BOV that is releasing air out instead of back into the system, so the ECU gets messed up looking for the expected air that has gone missing. (overfuelling at that point I guess) Option three could be the turbo needing to spin up again, and if you have no BOV or a faulty one that makes the chopping noise, the air is actually spinning the turbo wheel the wrong way, and will make spooling it up again quite labourous and time-consuming.

Heh! It has been a while, eh? Hope the car is still going well for ya! I have been up the central coast a few times since you were last down! The seal, it'd be pretty specific, so start with Nissan, get a genuine price, then call a wrecker such as JustJap and ask them what they want for a decent used one. They don't usually have a set price or stock of little things like that, but Darren is always keen to help you out, and will try and find one off a half-cut for you.

They're withing the whole brake lamp assembly, and it is thoretically possible for one of the wires to short on the metal body-clips that hold the harness in place. Worth a check I guess!

If that ring doesn't light up, it runs with my theory. There may be a fuse, I can't remember, but "c/lock" rings a bell, so it may exist. Check out your fuses, definately. The interior light plastic just pulls off. It's on clips, and mine can be pulled off with a gentle tug.

Aftermarket ones can be had from www.justjap.com for around $50, but Nissan would charge around the same for a genuine N15 Pulsar pocket, or if you can get a 300zx pocket, they look much nicer and sit perfectly.

There isn't any possibility that you started in 3rd is there? My gf learnt manual in my car not long ago, and it makes that shuddering and vibrating noise when the gear is too high for what you are doing. I have seen the water leak fixed with Merlin's suggestion, that's the simplest option to take.

You have a 3mm gap with the door open? I don't know if you've noticed, but when you close your door with the window up, the window actually moves out as it hits the frame of the door (rubber). That keeps it tight and stop the water from coming in through the top of the window. You could check that the window-guides are tight. They are the little furry pads with an adjustable lock-screw on it. They can be seen with the door trim removed, so you should be able to get a socket on them no worries. As far as water in the door, mine does that too, but looking at the design, it seems to be a normal thing? There are drainage holes in the bottom, but I don't get a LOT of water, just a little bit when I go through a pressure-wash or something. Even the speaker has the top covered, in what looks like an attempt at keeping it dry. The bottom of the speaker pod is completely open.

Yeah, genuine from Nissan. About $30 I think? I can't imagine that it's anything else, but try removing and cleaning it as RB30 suggests, but if that doesn't help, it's not too expensive or hard to replace the switch.

Actually... don't the lights come on as soon as you unlock the car? Mine do! That would certainly suggest that the door-switches are fine, and that the problem is further down the line.

Each door has a little switch in the pillar, so if none of them are triggering it, i'd guess that there is faulty wiring somewhere else, where all four doors become one wire. Where that is, I don't know... definately nothing wrong with the switch as far as the middle position goes? Check those contacts on the light-switch just incase!

My GTR friend had one of his hoses redone, reclamped, etc for a third of the price of a genuine replacement. He had it done somewhere in Sydney, but I can't recall the name of the business. Still, might be worth having a place make up new ones, using your old ones as a template? I'd guess you'd at least halve that cost?

Usually the stalling is an atmospheric blow-off valve. I found a stock one and whacked that on, no stalling when slowing to a stop with the clutch in. The hunt... I have heard that the idle air valve towards the back of the inlet manifold (plenum) is the cause of this. It may need to be removed and blasted clean with contact cleaner or carby cleaner. I hope that helps!