RANDY

They prolly connected to an oil catch can which was removed before your old man bought it. On my gtst, the left side goes (via an s-bend rubber pipe) into the front of the inlet manifold. Look for something blocked off. The other side goes down towards the turbo, but I haven't really followed it before. Just search for engine bay pics mate. You can probably compare.

Very common R33 problem. There are several threads on it. It is your heater unit which requires removing the entire dash (EVERYTHING) to fix. Someone has written an EXCELLENT guide on how to do this, but you need to allow for a minimum of 4 hours to pull it apart. I guess you need 4 hours to put it back together. And before you ask, no... it will do no harm to leave it like that. Mine does it and the heater flap still works fine. It's a sensor that has no contact anymore. The flap moves and should press two contacts together to indicate the end of the movement, but the contacts are dirty or broken, so it keeps trying to push further until it times out and stops. So it still functions correctly. Mine will do the noise if I switch to "feet". Test it out and see if you get it then as well as startup.

How's it hooked up? Like.. is it a 4-channel amp, and your head unit has 4 RCA outputs on it? So you run the splits off the front channels of the amp, and then run the sub off the rear outputs, using a built-in crossover in the amp? I can't see how this could happen, with the exception of maybe the sub channels on the amp have the gain all the way up, so when the splits have nothing, the amp is amplifying the tiny bit of noise that is still coming out of the headunit?

If your turbo's are knackered, might want to sort that before anything else. A second hand pair of good condition R32 turbo's shouldn't cost more than $500 (mate sold his not long ago for $200 each) Once that's sorted, grab a cheap turbotech manual boost controller from Mark (thread on SAU) for $35 and run stock or a little more boost. The controller is great, and will eliminate a lot of lag that the stock system can introduce. Spend the rest on a service and "tuneup" as such. Injector cleaning, clean pod filter, better engine oil etc. $400 - turbos $35 - controller $65 - bet on the horses, then win $200 for a full service.

Booya! FINALLY! I think i'll be sad not to have this to catch up on every couple of days when you finish all this! EDIT: Congrats!

There are a few American companies that make dedicated carputers. Lots of people make their own because it's a little cheaper. If you're going to make one yourself, there's a bit of work in it. The GPS aspect would be a minor consideration, you'd only build this if you were going to use it for cd's, mp3's and dvd's... gps and wifi are just bits you add to a PC, no big deal there. Other option is to buy a screen like that (with touchscreen built in) and scour ebay for laptops with busted screens. That's the cheapest way. But, to answer a theoretical question, I think eventually everyone would consider a carputer at some point, and it won't be long until manufacturers come out with their own implementation of a carputer (not running windows or anything, but using their own interactive software)... prolly see a CarBox or CarStation in a couple of years the way riceboxes are going!

If it comes into Australia as a race-only car, it will permanently forever always be that way, it can never be road-registered. It's just the rules.

can you get someone to press it for you, and then stick your head under the car? (car off obviously) Maybe it could be the slave cylinder pushing on the fork? As far as the engine bay goes, your pedal is hooked onto a rod that pushes through the firewall and into the clutch master cylinder. That rod could make some noise possibly? I don't know if it is lubricated by the clutch fluid in the reservoir. Anyway, isolate where it is coming from, then you might find you need a master or slave cylinder reconditioned. Personally, my clutch pedal's spring was VERY loud until I took to it with some silicone lubricant.

It can happen. I read something online that explained that one speaker could be in the opposite "phase" from the other. If you switch + and - on one speaker, both can produce more bass. (or rather, the right bass). Apparently you can hold a AA battery (for one second) to the wires, + to + and - to -, and if the speaker pops out, it is correct. If one speaker pops INWARDS, you just run the speaker wire in the opposite hookup. Interesting stuff, and I had to do it with my JBL 3-ways in the rear for them to sound any good. Turns out that they were out of phase with each other, and the push of one and the pull of the other on a bass note cancells each other out. Weird, and I dunno if this is a done thing, but the article was pretty in-depth.

Must be some air duct to run from the stock hole in the bar to the cooler. When I put my R34 cooler in, the bottom of it sat much lower than the stock R33 one. So much so that it's pushing the lower shroud down and creating another airduct under the bar! I don't know how much difference that would make, but to theorise on your other question about performance, the R34 cooler has bigger in and out pipes on it, and the core is thicker. In theory I beleive this means you could push more flow through it. Dunno if 10psi makes any difference, i'm still running 7. Considering the R34GTT's are 206kw stock, i'd say that this cooler would be good for at least that. I'd also guess that your intake temps might be *slightly* lower under load due to the increased surface area of the taller and thicker core. I'm going to mount a JayCar temp probe in my intake somewhere and monitor the temps. If it all seems good, then i'll run it up to 10psi.

Hey all! Anyone need/want a used, but good condition stock R33 intercooler? I'd be happy to take $20 for it. No plumbing, just the core. No dents, and the fins look good. Asking $20 SOLD I have a TurboSmart type 2 BOV that I have removed from my car, in working order. It's adjustable and can directly replace your stock BOV. Comes with Blanking button thing for your original piping. Asking $80 SOLD I also have a Ford EL o2 sensor, as discussed in the huge o2 sensor thread. I bought it for my R33GTST, ran it for a tank of fuel, then changed it to another brand to see if there was any difference. FAST confirmed that this part was working perfectly fine, and I have crimped the wires to a factory plug, so all you need to do is replace and plug it in. Asking $60 SOLD The pocket is an aftermarket one from JustJap. I didn't like it much and bought a 300zx pocket to replace this one. Fits OK. Asking $10 SOLD Clock was bought from another member here, and I was told that it worked fine. I bought some hazard buttons from the same person, and they work perfectly, so i'd assume this is in the same condition. Asking $20 SOLD Hazard lights from my car. I bought a set from someone else and replaced the globes in them, then put them in my car and removed my buttons. This set do not light up apart from the little orange light when the demister is on. I could take the time to replace the globes in this set too, but it's time-consuming. Asking $20 SOLD I should be able to ship any of these in an express satchel for $10, or pickup on the Northern Beaches of Sydney. [attachmen =43320:attachment]

First, go to Jaycar, Strathfield and Dick Smiths and see if there is a harness adapter for your headunit. (from your unit to ANY car harness) That way, you don't need to make up the plug or solder wires directly onto your headunit, just plug in, and then crimp the other end of the loom to fit the stock harness. Failing that, I don't know how easy it will be to work out which pins on the back of the HU are for what. A multimeter will only work when there is power applied, and then finding the right pin for power first go sounds unlikely. If you apply power to the wrong pin, you may blow something up. If you open the unit, a trained eye could probably verify which pin is for what, but that's not me!

I thought the standard gap was 1.1mm? The 6 bit is the heat rating, I beleive. (how far the inside conductor sticks out the plug) I have the same thing, and there is a huge thread about inspecting and repairing hairline cracks in your coilpacks. The theory is, the spark it exiting the crack in the pack, rather than going to your spark plugs. New plugs are gapped correctly, so the spark has to jump further, which causes the cracks in the packs to be more of a hinderance. If you gap the plugs down (dodgy fix), then the spark is more likely to jump that smaller distance, rather than jump through the crack. Best to fix your coilpacks, leave a good gap on the plugs (better burn). I think I have a broken exhaust gasket... I get a ticking sound from it. I can hear it quite obviously when I pull up next to a wall. Might want to sus that area? Or check the other gaskets on the turbo?

I beleive there will be no harm. Mine's been doing it for 8 months or more. The actuator detects when the lever is at its end, so when it goes faulty, the mechanism doesn't stop trying to move the arm. Eventually it times out and stops anyway, so it should be ok.

lol! I have no leaks, everything else checked, 02 replaced etc etc etc Stock as a rock, and I get 350 to a tank EXACTLY, no matter how I drive.

What about the cabin-light wire? Any door opens, it joins to a single wire that turns the cabin light on. I don't know if that is dodgy or not, but it would cover the boot open too!

Oh... the diagram for fitting on the back of this sheet shows the 11220-RSR40 as being a round mount, like my R33GTST has, and the other diagram covers the 11220-RS585 and the other two 11320 models. Since this has 11220 on the mount, i'd say these mounts must be the 11220-RS585.

The sheet has: 11320-RSR85 - R32 (2WD) 5sp RB something 11220-RS585 - R32 (2WD) RB something / R33, R34 (2WD) HICAS something 11320-RSR40 - R33, R34 (2WD) MT something 11220-RSR40 - R33, R34 (2WD) HICAS something The something is Japanese, and I have no idea what it could mean. Possibly "without"?

Sold for $80! Sorry, Bretto... I'm afraid that's all that is written on the rubber. The Nismo sheets that it comes with have 4 different part numbers, but none of them are ticked to indicate that this is whichever mount.

Hey guys! I have a pair of Nismo engine mounts for sale. Bought from another member here, and neither of us know which models they will fit. Nissan FAST says that the 11220 is an R33 engine mount, and from the pictures it looks like it will fit the RB25DE (non-turbo) flavours. My R32 GTR driving mate says they look identical to the ones he put in his car, so maybe they will fit R32's also? They are rectangular, as the picture show, and not round like the R33 GTST mounts are. I paid $100, so any offer from there!

I beleive it would halve it, yes, that's what I meant. It gives more chance of noise to be introduced, but since the split will be fairly near the end, it might not cause any issues. Cheaper and better to use the 1st amp's passthrough for the 2nd amp.

ah, ta!

Splitters will split the very low voltage you have running through the RCA's. The amp passthrough should filter/amp the signal back up to where it should be. Never use splitters unless you really have to!

Doesn't sound like it was. Seems everyone learns the hard way! Stereo and gadgets first, then install an alarm after they go missing.

Happened to a mate's R32GTR when we went for a strap. He pulled all the plastic off and got me to watch what happened when he booted it round corners. We then noticed that the reservoir was low, and there is a sensor on it. Definately your problem too.