RANDY

I did it on my last car (Berlina V8). I didn't notice any difference in the A/C efficiency, but I don't see why it can't help? My lines were thin metal pipes that went from the gas cylinder to the A/C compressor and condenser. Heck... why not!? =-]

Mine smells like mothballs??

Ah ok... so all R33's have ball bearing, series 1 is ceramic intake wheel, series 2 has nylon, R34GTT has bigger housing, ball bearing, and nylon intake wheel. Pretty sure that's right! As for how much boost you'll get, you'll get whatever your boost controller is set to! Stock boost those turbo's see is 7psi, but many people run them at 10 or 12 psi safely. Obviously the R34GTT with the bigger housing could take a bit more, but remember that your RB20 motor is not pushing as much exhaust gas as an RB25 motor does, so it will take a little longer to spool these turbos, so don't go too big on a stockish setup.

I beleive it doesn't! The ignitor is built into a series 2 ECU, whereas it sits ontop of the coil-pack cover on a series 1 motor. I've read lots of compatibility issues switching ECU's or using the wrong ECU for the engine. (check your keyboard for a "caps lock" button. It's jammed down.) =-p

Read my post a few pages back. I am running 7psi (rather than the stock solanoid running 5psi up to 4500rpm, then giving 7psi) The quicker spool and having 7psi all the time gives lots more punch from 3000-5000rpm, which was previously missing. Car is fairly stock. Someone asked about blocking off the unused hose on the crossover pipe... I cut an inch and a half of rubber pipe, then put it back onto the hose-nipple, put a screw that was a bit larger than the inside diameter of the hose, drove it in with a screwdriver, and then put a hose-clamp on it as you would normally. Screw isn't coming off, and it certainly won't get sucked in. Cable-tie over the bit of pipe, where the screw is if you want to be sure that it's air-tight.

I guess your tuner thought they were the wrong heat-range for your application? I bought the "6" range of the same plug. ross80: maybe you need to check that your base timing is neutral, and check the heat-range on your plugs?

Well if money is an object, as it frequently is, the series 2 turbo has a nylon impeller wheel which helps spool the turbo quicker than a series1. The R34 turbo is slightly larger in the housing apparently, and may be ball bearing.... although i've heard that the series 2 turbo's are ball bearing too.

The earth fuse on the RCA output is actually built into the headunit. Sometimes it's a tiny fuse that is replaceable. That fuse blows if you plug RCA's in while the amp is on, or the RCA's short on the body or something. Grounding the RCA negative side to the head unit can act as a workaround...

LOL, sorry! My mistake! Where did you migrate from, and where's your work-visa? =-p

I'd say that the serial ATA was his problem, and his notebook is the "standard" IDE connection.

OK now $580 is sweet for a light exhaust that flows well! Pity it didn't start around $600ono Keep going though, I recken it will sell for 500-600! *coughfreebumpcough*

PM sent!

(edited... cause I couldn't read!)

Hey, Jeff! I picked up that cat off you... semi-interested in the pocket now. How well did it fit, and could I have a focused picture sent to me please? =-p Cheers!

I 2nd NewKleer... that is my understanding of how it works, and it is able to hold a stable boost level much better than a bleed-setup. And CEF11E, I think EVERYONE owes you a beer! =-D

Replied to your PM yesterday... just reply back to my PM =-] Cheers!

That's a good point... =-]

Nice work! Might do this as preventative maintenance! =-]

What size tyre is it, and what do you keep it inflated to? If your tyre is saggy, then it will expand out a little when you drive quickly... which will make the steering feel light. This, and I beleive the 4-wheel steering operates over 70km/hr?

Heh.. it's not a Turbo-smart... This guy makes all these on his own! I beleive he goes over it and checks the mechanism before sending it out, so i'd expect that he's probably a bit swamped making and sending them while working his other full-time job. =-]

I think you'd LOSE a little bit of power if the RB25 pushes more air. =-]

Injectors, ECU, fuel pump, and fuel reg will probably all have to be looked at, from what i've seen out of other people's mods. Breaking traction... it's controlled by your right foot (and left to some degree). If you want 300rwkw, you'd have to do the above mods, but you'd have a VERY quick streeter capable of some quick sprints. If you mash the pedal, it will probably spin... this is where a lot of the skill of racing comes into it I beleive.

x-force eh? If you can accept $150 plus shipping to Sydney, please PM me your bank details! Cheers!

What kind of cat? Will take if it is: 3", large body, with sensor thread Pref name-brand like catco? Cheers!

Yah, as above... depends what you're going to kill. If you cut the ignition circuit with a kill-switch, then possibly your turbo timer won't work or something. If you kill the fuel pump relay, and your alarm doesn't already do that, then you've effectively added another "immobiliser" point!