RANDY

Jinx!

Was that how they claimed it worked? With magnets? Do they actually say that in their ads? That's got to be worse than the computer-fan induction "supercharger"! LOL!

Thanks for the info, mate... but there are three things that stopped me going down that path. I have seen the guide on ns.com, but I really didn't think there was enough room to mount a resistor in the holder. Another SAU guy said that the LED's do not evenly light up the A/C unit in an R33 because the LEDs are so damn directional. Our AC unit has two globes to cover the lot, whereas the nissan silvias appear to have 4 in total. I want a white light. Having recently replaced the bulbs in my hazard and demister switch, the hazard lights up a wicked glowing white with the original rubber cover on it... so that's how I want my AC unit to be. Can anyone confirm what an original AC unit lights up like? Does anyone have an original unit that still lights up?? It rather looks like the silvia's have the same globe holder that the skylines have? If so, I might try and buy two of them!

If it's a squeal, tighten the belt. If it's not squeeling, but sounds nasty, try loosening it a bit? My belts were noisy when I overtightened them. Otherwise yeah, I replaced my idler and tensioner. Not a bad idea, but playing with the belts a bit cheaper and quicker to test this theory.

Check the packs for hairline cracks or signs of arcing. Also search and read a big thread about fixing this stutter and high-rpm issue. Seems that 90% that tried the coilpack fix have walked away happy.

Well, i've been told by a few people that the R34 GTT cooler is good for around 200rwkw. The motor puts out 206kw at the flywheel, so there's a little room to expand on an R34. I swapped my R33 cooler over to an R34 cooler, and the difference in core size is obvious, so the cooling may be a bit better. The stock R33 item seems to have smaller end-tanks and in/out holes, so i'd put a guess at 170-180rwkw? You'd be more worried about the intake temps at that kind of power rather than how well the cooler will flow.

Do you have the correct thermostat for your car? If the rating is much higher, then it won't open when it should. Other thing may be the waterpump. If it died, then it won't circulate the water. And if you want to get any possible air out, there may be a better way, but I only know of the one that involves starting and running the car at idle with the radiator cap off until the bubbling stops. If your pump is working properly, you should eventually get coolant spilling over the top as the car warms up.

No good! Too blue! My new demister globe with the old blue cap on it makes the button light up a wicked white. Now my A/C buttons are a dim blue. So blue that you can't see the red "up temp" button. With no caps and bright orange light, I couldn't see the blue "down temp" button. I just want a bright white, dammit! =-[

I still want the nice white that my hazard now lights up! I'll take pics tonight!

Oh right.. I see them now... They look VERY similar! Same kind of contact system at least.

Today I put new grain-of-wheat globes in, with blue silcone caps from Narva. It lights up a dim blue... I also fixed the demister and hazard button lights, which had similar rubber caps on them. My blue looks like N1GTR's picture above, whereas the blue cap on the hazard bulb makes the icon light up a nice bright white. Very similar white to the tacho/speed guages. Damn Nissan and their special globes, globe-holders, and silicone caps! I will never get this fixed! =-///

doubtful. The bulbs need a fair amount of wire on them to coil onto the original holder, which looks nothing like anything standard. I thought Narva.com.au might have something, but none of their globe-holders will work either! There's another thread somewhere on this topic too.

I'm going to test this!

We used that one.... the second time ;o)

LOL! Two keyboards on the passenger seat. =-] I really like your custom case! Pity mini ITX mobo's and cpu's cost so damn much though!

There is a harness that runs up the side already, try to stick to that. I removed the rail that holds the seatbelt on, as it was neater to go under that. Easy. The door-sill pops off with a gentle tug. Remove the kickpanel where the ECU is, one nut on the footwell, then there's just two clips holding the side in, tug it off. There is a round section next to the passenger seat, under that moulded piece of carpet there is an upside down U shape, where the wires can run over very nicely. You can work out the rest, but those minor details may help.

I don't think it should dip!? Holding the window button up dims my cabin light slightly, but i'd definately have a look at upgrading your earth wire from the battery. There are guides on what guage you shoud use, and how to prepare the mounting surface for a good contact etc.

Yikes! Never had one, never needed one! The reversing chime is standard on the auto's I beleive? I think it's the same unit as the "door open with keys in the ignition" beeper? If it is as I suspect, there was a guide here somewhere that describes where it is and what it looks like. You just disconnect it.

I agree with a possible turbo oil-leak. There will always be a little bit of oil coating the intake pipes, and depending on how much blow-by you have coming back, it could build up like that. The fuel economy might be something else, but you should really get that weld looked at, as Security said.

Weird! I'm still looking for a way to make these suckers blue again! I bought some Narva blue silicone caps from autoone, but they're for 5mm globes, and these grain of wheat are about 4mm by my ruler. Nothing 5mm exists, according to everyone I talk to, so I can't easily use these things. 12v LED's exist in red, orange and flashing red, but not blue. (although I found a taiwanese company who does 12v blue). I'm going to drop a tiny bit of superglue into the silicone cap, then put the slightly smaller globe in, and hope that it takes and doesn't melt when it gets hot. ARGH!

Yeah, I had the same thing. At worst, you'll feel a shudder in the motor as it spins faster. Nissan wanted the same from me, but I called around. JustJap wanted $220 Unique Auto Sports asked for $100. I got one of UAS, and it came the next day via courier. Problem solved! Getting the old one off is a biatch if it's been on there for a while, but if yours is like mine, it got damaged using the harmonic balancer removal tool in the first place. =-/

Look at the diagram on the back of the fuse box lid. Each fuse must have it's own amperage rating on there. Other than that, no, all automotive fuses will be 12v. Might want to check that your foglights are hooked up, and that you have the button or switch for it, as i've seen a few posts where series1 owners have the foglights, but there is no switch or globes in them to light up.

The tag is just the ranking for the amount of posts. =-] My R33 had a dealer-optioned central locking too, but it wasn't remote central locking. The alarm installer used the original motor to wire up my alarm, so what Chris is saying makes a lot of sense. The alarm installer I had said that a lot of places don't know or think to tap into that original motor, so you could well have a second one in there that has stopped working. Chris is in QLD, as he says, otherwise the mob called "Security In Motion" did my system, and the guy was excellent. Sydney-based.

Ah! slightly different for the Rb20! Good work!

ohhhhhhh... you have two remotes!? An original that works, therefore the motors are fine, and one aftermarket that has just stopped working. I'm no "Mister Alarm", but i'd guess that a wire has been snipped somehow.... if the remote lost it's frequency or scramble code, it wouldn't even immobilise the car for you. Enter: Chris again!