RANDY

Nuts, I didn't realise that you did dynamat stuff aswell!

Yeah, but do you trim the hole for the inner of the speaker, so that the factory screws go through the dynamat, or to you trim the hole for the overall outside circumference for the whole speaker, so that it mounts back to the metal?

damuscat: I have already made up a rear section like doodzez one, with brackets to have the little bit on the right hand side at a 30 degree angle or so. The factory mounts for that battery cover are not strong enough, so you'd have to do all those mounts like doodz has done. Drill holes into your parcel-shelf, mount brackets, rivet them in place etc etc. Even then, i'm looking for a stock look. I want to get to my spare tyre without ripping the whole lot out, and get to the battery with the same ease. I have made a new floor out of masonite, the full size of the original carpet, then glued the original carpet on. So I don't want to make up a whole new floor. I was going to mount my Sony 12" in the battery cover bit that I made, with the magnet-end poking into the empty space next to the battery. This would have looked wicked, but alas, there are no simple mounting options. =-[ So, i'm sticking with my good 6.5" speakers, and swap to a small 4x100w amp next to the battery, and then calling it quits.

I tried to do this... my rubber tube goes to a big wire-harness. I unplugged the wire harness (on the a-pillar) and found a bolt holding the other half flush with the pillar. Undid the bolt, then lost the whole thing in the pillar hollow. Pulled ECU and stuff out, but I can't see any way of getting in there. (got it back with my long finger, and lots of poking around in the hole...hehe) Ended up putting it all back together and giving up on the idea... where would you run the speaker cable through? There are no other factory holes in my A-pillar.

I think the R33 turbo is noticeably bigger, and the markings on them would tell you which is which. The bigger turbo would probably lag longer, although it is ball-bearing and ceramic exhaust wheel, i'm not sure it would make up for the smaller motor. So, at a guess, with a decent exhaust/dump, it probably SHOULD fully spool to 7psi or whatever by 4000 (under load at least)

Hmm... mine will make a clunk if I push the clutch in while reversing... like if you're feathering the clutch. Never when I just turn the key... I can't see how it would be taking up any slack at all... it's not in gear, so there should be no drive to the tail-shaft or rear diff, or wheels. I like the exhaust option more... I was going to suggest a bad engine mount or something... I guess a bad mount would make the engine jump a bit, which would lift your dump and exhaust system.

damn man... that's not good news. For the reasoning, see bezerk's post... and mine above... Possibly it had no oil, so it just overheated and locked up. Still, rule everything else out first. Does your dump pipe have that little pipe that bangs up against the exhaust port on the turbo? If so, drop the dump off and try spinning the turbo. If it still doesn't spin, then you can be pretty sure that nothing else is holding the shaft in place. Maybe talk to the place that did the highflow and get them to check the turbo out... maybe they botched something, or maybe they can prove conclusively that it was due to your installation. Good luck!

After much thought, I think i'm just going to buy a shorter amp. Relocating battery tray means drilling new holes, and welding a nut on the other side for the thread... Putting amps under the floor means making up a false floor... All too difficult!

Yeah! Unless someone with an R32GTR who's attempted it before says that it's impossible, then I can't see any harm in just trying.

From looking at a mate's R32 GTR, I recken if you undo the joiner pipe to the cat, you might be able to undo the dump and back it off enough to slip a new gasket in there and then do it back up. Getting to the bolts might be harder... the motor really looks shoe-horned into that engine bay!

I put money on faulty AFM. A mates car did the same thing. Started then stalled after one or two seconds. I unplugged his AFM, then started it with a bit of throttle in there, and he limped it home. It would cut out over 2000rpm (exactly), but it made it. New AFM and it runs perfectly.

If the turbo ran for a while... maybe it wasn't getting oil or something from a blocked pipe? And now it's seized? Either way, intake stuff off, spin wheel, should tell you if the turbo is even working. For it to have no boost, you'd have to have an entire intercooler pipe completely off or something. The plumbers test sounds like a good diagnostics thing... but i'd personally do that after checking the easy stuff first.

OK.... it wasn't the black gunk holding the light in. You have to remove the middle "Skyline" strip to completely remove the tail light (at least on my Series2, that's what you have to do) I have taken pics of all the steps. Took me 4 hours to completely remove all the black crap from the body and the tail-light, but now both are squeaky clean. Unfortunately SuperCheapAuto was closed by the time I finished, so the tail-light is back in the socket with no sealant. It was a beautiful day yesterday when I did it... and it's beautiful today... IT RAINED LAST NIGHT THOUGH! So now I have even MORE water in the boot! =-/ At least it's coming in where I suspected the original leak was. I will get the windscreen sealant in the next day or two and finish the job, with pics.

Got an aftermarket dump pipe? I had one that smacked up onto the exhaust wheel of the turbo, and didn't let it spin. Possibly the new turbo has a bigger (and metal) wheel, and you have the same thing that I do? I had no boost and terrible performance, but I did notice a soft whistle sound... prolly the exhaust rushing past the locked up exhaust wheel. I'd suggest you pull off the intake piping to the turbo, and see if you can manually spin the turbo compressor wheel. This is what my mate told me to do, and how I found out what my problem was.

The cutout sounds similar to having no AFM connected... you really have to go off the manual from what i've read on SAFC's.

I'm due to receive my dynamat door kit, but their site doesn't seem to mention whether you are supposed to mount the speaker (or speaker pod) directly onto the material itself, or to cut the material around the whole thing. I'm guessing that if I mount it on the material, it will act as a damper and not vibrate the door as much, but then you aren't getting the rigidity that the speaker needs to properly throw the cone around. Dynamat sell a speaker kit also, which is just two small squares for mounting the speakers onto. It looks to be the same stuff as what's used in the door kit, so i'm assuming the manufacturer wants me to mount the pods back onto the dynamat material. Anyone have any ideas? (chris?)

seach around, there is a few threads on it. To name a couple: maguires scratch X or something chrome polish paste toothpaste

I use Kitten interior protectant. Not oily like armorall, and doesn't smell bad. I've been using it on my last car and my current car (4 years total) and it's never done anything bad to the dash. I use it on every plastic piece I can find in the car, and it comes up looking like brand new.

automotorsports... where would I find them, and how much did you pay? My Redline oil arrived this morning, so if the notchyness goes, i'd be keen to go for a short-shifter!

Added stock R33 cooler to the list! Pics on request. (but you know what they look like)

Sorry... didn't read the digital bit!

Someone answered this for me a while ago. It's obvious to me now, but I didn't think of it at the time. You should have a key for the siren, usually mounted in the enginebay. The key turns the siren off so you can disconnect the battery. It's a tamper-proof feature of the alarm. =-]

Ermm. Sounds like your battery died. Either: It has a tiny bit of juice to work the lights, but not enough to start. The clicking noise is usually the solanoid that pushes the starter gear onto the ring-gear (or whatever manuals have) Or: Did you jump it from the battery in the boot, or off the fusepanel under the bonnet like you're supposed to? If you have a good battery, but still nothing happens, you could have blown your starter motor fuse. Check that fuse. Either way, if the battery died after a week, it's time to replace it.

Make sure your bonnet-lining is there? I've never heard an EFI car with injectors I couldn't hear.

If it's not in gear, how would the clutch be releasing/grabbing anything? Could it be a carrier bearing or something along those lines?