RANDY

Possibly, it could be a gapping thing or a coil-pack issue too though. My GTST would pop and miss with faulty coils.

No no, I understood you. =-] But i'll try and make myself a bit clearer... The wire that you used on the 02 sensor... i don't think there is a positive and negative on it. The two same-coloured wires (white? or black? can't remember) are for the heater element in the sensor. This leaves one wire of a different colour to the other two.... that is your sensor wire. I'm suggesting that you check that you have tapped into that uniquely-coloured wire for the guage. The sensors range from 0 to 1 volt, so if it's hooked up correctly and you still get nothing, then get a multimeter onto that sensor wire and make sure your sensor is actually working. =-]

That's the only way that I know of gapping a plug... granted, i've never done it myself, but that's my understanding of how it's done. The metal is quite strong. As far as the missfire thing... the coilpacks are the popular fault of the month. You could double-check this though. Mine used to missfire if I was in a tall gear and put the boot right in. Get the motor nice and hot, then stick it in 4th at about 60km/h, then boot right into it. Mine would missfire lower in the revs when I had faulty coilpacks and did this.

The flat spot that those other guys were talking about is commonly due to a faulty coil. As far as the boost jumping up quickly and shuddering to get to 6... maybe try rigging the piping back up to a stock R33 boost actuator? Or buy the $35 boost controller that everyone here loves, it should eliminate the EBC being at fault. I'm guessing that you're running the stock R33 wastegate and BOV too? Each time you change gear, the BOV should be venting the air back into the system. Well, every time you change gear, you will be building boost again, which is where you are having the shudders. I really think the EBC should be bypassed as a troubleshooting thing. Failing that, check knock, timing, and fuelling?

Jah, one coil per cylinder, no wasted spark. So as Craved indicates, checking the timing should be no issue. Ignition timing is partially done by the ECU, and partially set by the base timing (CAS). With your stock ECU, everyone is on the money with checking the timing. Might be easier to set the CAS back to factory, then reset the ECU and let it do its job... it's probably retarding the timing as much as it can, but with the base so far advanced, it can only bring it back roughly to zero. (15BTDC anyway)

You might want to do some searches about this... but people have had similar issues. Most of the time, it's due to poor earthing, and thick (8-guage?) earth and positive battery wires seem to solve most of those issues. I haven't yet read any post where someone has upgraded their alternator, but it IS possible that the voltage regulator is shot...

If it's anything like the R33, then yeah, the belt comes off after you undo the LOCKING nut, then undoing the tensioner bolt. From there, the AC belt is closer to the motor than the psteer belt. (on the harmonic balancer) so you'd have to do the same process to get that belt off so you can completely remove the AC belt. On the AC, the locking bolt is the one facing forwards, at the top. you can get a socket onto it through one of the holes in the pulley. Without doing this first, the tensioner bolt shouldn't budge. Might want to post pics, and then we can confirm. I still think it's strange how people buy cars with all the good bits, then remove them (hicas, AC etc) =-[ On the racetrack, I understand, but for a daily driver... =-o

series 1 or two? Drivers dashs sidr trim$10 <- is this the panel where the window controls are? Stearing collum cowle $20 <- Both upper and lower steering column covers? cheers!

OK... series 2 SHOULD have a dimmer installed. It was required for compliance. My car has been in Australia for more than 6 years, and it has it. (funky 80's amplifier dial!) And yes, the lights next to your indicators are your DRIVING LIGHTS... they're not called fog-lights anymore. Europeans have fog lights for... fog! And they'd be a bright yellow. Ours are just white and only light up the road immediately infront of you, and more out to the sides. Driving lights and fog lights are weak to drive with, sure, but they are quite bright to oncoming traffic. They are supposed to be used like headlights. i.e: not in suburbian areas, and not with cars infront of you or oncoming. Series 1's might be dimmer than series 2 though... for those s1 owners that have them. Noone has mentioned the grinding yet, so i'll take a stab at that one. Check your engine mount on that side. If not that, check your bushes or have pedders or something check them for you. =-]

I can tell you definately that the sensor further down, in the cat is the heat-sensor, which lights up on your dash if it gets too hot. Otherwise, where did you get power and earth from? You should get power from an ignition wire, so it's on when the car is on, and ground from the chassis (a clean spot). Make sure you have that right first... most of those displays will light up without it connected to the ECU wire. (on fully lean) Once the power is 100%, then yeah, i'm pretty sure you want the single sensor wire that goes to the ECU. Mine has two black ones, which are for the heater part of the sensor, and the third is the voltage/signal wire.

Cost me 30-40 bucks for one of them in Sydney, not on special. Definately the right direction for cutting and polishing, although the supercheap ones are pretty cheaply made.

Search, and ye shall find. There is a test involving a multimeter set to ohms. I just changed the lot.

All sold, cheers! Will have standard dump pipe for sale soon...

Good to hear! The doors act like a great enclosure as long as they don't rattle... My Clarion splits are excellent for me in the front. If I had the same handling and bass in the rear, i'd be a happy camper. Unfortunately that model doesn't seem to be made anymore (identifying via pics, i'm not sure of the model number I actually have) SRsomething, with a purple/blue cone. I'd be VERY confident to buy another set of those and use them in the rear if I could source some. Cheers all!

And if you hold the stick towards you, do they stay on? They probably run off a relay somewhere in your fusebox in the engine bay, but I doubt you'd be able to hear it click from within the car, so i'd suggest a nasty short somewhere. Failing this, a faulty indicator stalk (do my suggested test first) or a faulty relay (easily changed)

lol!! I used Maguire's "midget-be-gone" spray in my throttle body and that cleared that problem up.

Do you have a BOV that vents to atmosphere? That can cause the car to actually stall when doing what you are doing... but then I think an air-leak could do that too. I also think that an air-leak could give you the slow revs. If not an air-leak, then some kind of bockage... either way it sounds like there's not enough air getting into the plenum/cyclinders etc. That's a novice guess, but i'm keen to hear what the problem turns out to be! Don't buy batteries from Kmart and the likes.. they have probably been sitting on the shelf for 6 months or more. Best to get (at minimum) a Century heavy duty battery from a service station or better yet, from a reputable mechanic or auto electrician, as they turn over their stock much more frequently. By heavy duty, I mean 11-plate, 400cca or more. You can go nuts on batteries, but unless you're running all sorts of flashy lights and multiple amps and subs, you won't need it. I run a 330cca 11-plate and one amp to drive my 4 speakers. No dramas with the stereo on for many hours while cleaning without flattening the battery.

Do you have something controlling your fuel management?

Cool cool. No arguament here! Well... if you come back and see this, contact Chris Rogers... most places seem to sell it for $250 delivered.

Lots have. Search for "coilpacks" ;o) Then do some research on new sparkplugs and gapping. Changed mine, problem gone.

A seized aircon, or water pump? Something is holding it back it seems... if the timing belt is rubbing against a seized idler or tensioner bearing, you won't have a timing belt for much longer. Get your mechanic to check it out while he's servicing it mate.

But if he pushes the pedal down, the revs move too slowly... there has to be something amiss there! It's still a cable throttle-body, so when that is open, it should be drawing in plenty of air. I guess even an air leak shouldn't cause that, otherwise it'd idle really poorly. Maybe a blockage or something more technical. I'm at a loss really.

Ah! Different story! I thought you had smoke in the engine bay or something... so that pic is completely unrelated in every way to the question. =-p Ditto to Green s13... I wouldn't worry about that. You'd get plenty of that if you back off at high revs. Exhaust soot, basically.

If it's been chopped down, then it will seem like a shorter shift. I'd liken that to chopping springs in a car though, bit of a hack job. =-[ If you imagine your gearstick three times as long, the top of it would travel much further... if you reduce it, then you are moving the top a shorter distance, but i'd imagine that it's uncomfortable to have to grab lower down to get it. And to the above guy with the Nismo shifter... there are two.. one is a "solid shifter", which as you felt, makes shifting feel more direct. It has a 10% shorter throw. Nismo make a "quick shifter" which apparently is 25% less throw. Thanks, SK, for the background on the mechanics of it!

And thanks, Funky. I have made my own parcel shelf and fitted these JBL's myself... rear seat and everything out... i'm not concerned about fitting new speakers, just how other speakers may sound. I see that your JayCar kevlars are the coaxial model... how's the bass frequency and volume? Do they lose themselves or stay pretty rigid? Do they easily hit their maximum throw and distort? Also, i'd like to take a poll... who mounts directly to the metal, like the stock Cefiro seems to, and who mounts to the parcel shelf masonite/MDF?