RANDY

lol. Told ya =-p

I'll take a guess? Factory Kenwood amp? If it was optioned on your car, it would have sat next to the HICAS computer, under the parcel-shelf.

low brake fluid in your reservoir

You won't need a multimeter... the standard solanoid should give 5psi if it's not working properly, and 7psi if it is. I suggest that your plumbing is not quite right... from the intake pipe down the bottom, the pipe should come into the bottom of the solanoid (I think.. if not, switch them around), and then the top one goes to your wastegate actuator.

Thanks for the response with the turps and cutting tips. I didn't want to try turps or anything like that on my paint... I didn't know whether or not it'd be harmful. According to car audio install places, "wax and grease" remover is what is used to remove the same sealant from your door-trims. I'll be giving that a try when I get time to sound-deaden my doors. ;o)

I would wager a guess that the black and red both go to black, and your white wire goes to the black on on the 02 sensor. Still, dunno... someone will give you the answer though! You definately got the right one for your car, yeah?

So... if you rev the thing in neutral, does the motor spin up with the foot all the way in? If it does, then your TPS and throttle cable is OK. Does it idle OK? If it does, then you might not have a boost leak. Still, some leaks open up under pressure, so recheck and retighten everything. If those are fine, i'd start looking at your boost actuator, check that there are no blockages, and that it's plumbed up correctly to the intake pipe and wastegate actuator. EDIT: If it was blocked or not working, I think you'd get the factory 7psi or whatever the wastegate is rated for... so maybe just bypass the controller just to test. (keep an eye on boost, don't overdo it) Then, maybe check, that your BOV or wastegate isn't stuck open or something. It rather sounds like the turbo isn't generating more than 3psi... i'm sure it would be sluggish at 3. Whether it's because of any of the above possibilities, I dunno. Check them out, one by one...

Stan! Great idea man! Maybe two packages? a 5000k service pack, and a 100,000 pack? The idler and tensioner bearings can be had from Bearing Industries for under $100. (search for thread with details). FULL PACK: 100 timing belt 100 idler/tensioner bearings 120 drive belts 100 radiator hoses 50 thermostat 100 spark plugs (1.1mm or 0.8) ? 5L good oil 15 oil filter 15 fuel filter ? coolant ? gearbox oil (I bought Redline) SERVICE PACK: 100 spark plugs (1.1mm or 0.8) ? 5L good oil 15 oil filter ? coolant 20 3x metal-backed wiperblades 20 Bottle of Injector treatment I guess it would add up, but if bought in bulk, maybe each supplier would come down on the price a little, and i'm sure people would pay to have everything in one pack rather than find stupid part numbers for belts and run around everywhere trying to convince auto stores to order them in for ya. ;o)

With my car, it's the boot lock barrel that rattles in the bootlid. I can get my hand in there and put a finger on it, then the vibration noise stops. If so, i'm not sure that you could tape it up or anything, it needs to turn. I'm thinking a heavy smearing of thick grease would stop thin bits of metal from hitting each other. Maybe check that your spoiler isn't the cause too... and lastly... the licence plate usually complains, so back it with rubber then screw it back on.

Maybe someone adjusted your idle air control valve when your 02 sensor was dead? So when you plug it in, it's running correctly, but your adjustment is outta whack? Dunno. Just a guess.

My Ford sensor had two white and one black. The black was the signal wire, and the two white were the heater wires. My R33 plug had the same thing, but different colours. Could have been two black and one red. Can't remember, but they all hooked up fine.

*cry*

Someone posted this up about 6 months ago. The arguaments for NOT using them were that it sticks out too far, and could get sheared off easily, and that the thing would be too hot to touch. I think there were some doubts about whether it would drain properly too. Not sure if you can find the post, there'd be a ton of trawling. I thought it was a handy idea... no more changing copper washers. Oh well!

Jah! Triangle thing is a mad place for them. Wires are hidden, and it's easy to access if you have to, hey?

Sounds like a small boost leak? One that only opens up when the pressure builds. It would explain why your off-boost and idle is still fine.

That's an interesting placement and method of mounting tweeters! Most good splits come with a tweeter that has the option of flush or surface mounting. If you get the surface mounting bracket, most of the time it will have a 30 or 45 degree bevel on the bottom, so you can mount it on your mirror-sails and point them towards you. As far as the highpass goes with splits, is there any point? Splits should have their own crossover? My Clarions did, and the 6.5 driver doesn't get the super-low bass frequencies. It does get a nice punchy kick though. I recently put my sub in... I wasn't planning to on this car, but after 9 months of no sub, I couldn't beleive how good everything sounded with it in. Staging is great! Sub is nice and omnidirectional, mids are holding up well... On the upshot, the JayCar 100wrms full range amp fits next to the battery in the boot, and so should the 2-channel. If people are recommending that you run the fronts off an amp, then get the 100wrms full-range JayCar amp and run them off the front outputs, and use your sub in bridge mode off the rear outputs. Works for me!

You're better off removing said panel and then sanding it completely clean. Then use some primer spray, then sand with really fine sandpaper, then basecoat, then paint.

That's a good move. Seems everyone agrees with the "short" theory.

Someone (a cabinet maker) posted up his boot install in the for sale area. His price was cheap for a complete boot layout (no stereo equipment included) and it looked excellent! As far as audio gear goes, read through here... brands of speakers and HU's get mentioned from time to time.

Checked power to the central locking harness? Check the C/LOCK fuse too, might be blown?

ARGH! Sorry! Mearcat was doing the temp probe stuff... sorry man. I've fixed my post! Get NewKleer's shiz, it's the biz!

Jah.. the factory BOV location is probablly the best option. That's on the back of the intake pipe that leads to the throttle body. It's probably blanked off, but i'm sure you could either use the factory BOV (why not?) or get an adapter to your other one.

No worries mate! I've heard that R34 owners use the same cable, so I'm assuming that all the R34's have the same plug as the 32 and 33's

black is probably ground, which should go to where you earthed your CD player. White is probably power (12v+), which you'd need to tap to the RED wire of your ciggy lighter. Also test that your ciggy lighter works. From what you wrote, it sounds like you have both wires going to earth.

You need one with the Nissan OBD I type (not 2). From there, NewKleer was writing some excellent consult software, which had carputers in mind. From memory, he was going to make the number of guages customiseable (so you could put two decent sized ones on a 7" screen), and also make the program load directly into the guages, with no "connect" button like all the others have. That way, you can turn the car on, the carputer can have a shortcut to his app in the startup, and it will show the guages on the screen straight away. You could also just have a clickable shortcut, like with winamp and whatever else you're going to run... at least when you click it, it will go straight in. Failing this, there are various free/shareware consult programs out there. Do some searches on SAU for those. The cable.. blazt or some site like that is where I got mine from, it's a Nissan plug to USB, no stuffing around with adapters or serial ports! $100 or less, can't remember.