RANDY

OK, so for my O2 update; Just put in the NGK recommended sensor, which has the right plug on the harness. When I run SRTalk with my consult cable, the O2 readings aren't jumping all over the place like the ROX207 one did. I will have to see if it still does that after getting quite hot, and i'll let you know my fuel economy (Stan, don't miss it!).

I'm just about to do that, too... In my Berlina, it was just a case of splicing into, or making an in-line adapter from the sensor wire, then hooking up positive and negative power. On the Skyline, there are three cables for the oxy sensor, use the single wire that is not the same colour as the other two. I think it is white, with two blacks for the heater. I just bloody changed mine, and I can't remember the colours!

And I got beaten with the gasket-changing advice =-]

I would still recommend changing the gaskets though... Might as well since you're there. Only other thing I would add, is to cover the motor with a clean cloth while the covers are off being painted... you don't want too much crap getting in there! =-]

No way! I've been hunting for a USED one, thinking Nissan wouldn't have them new anymore... but like everything, it's prolly a Bosch switch eh? Cheers!

At very least, if you don't have the switch there, and it was like that from factory, i'd bet there definately WON'T be motors in the mirrors.

I bought the catch can that is on special from Just Jap... it comes with reinforced clear tubing that looks to be 22mm. The can comes with interchangeable nozzles, and when I compared the smaller nozzle to the nozzle on the inlet manifold, they were the same size. Now I just need to buy black tubing in that size. I'm running it on the manifold (off-boost) side, so I guess it won't be getting all that hot where it is. So.... that can is the goods, as it covers both 22? and 15? sizes. As for reducing one down to the other, it restricts the maximum potential breathing... and maybe it will increase your oil pressure slightly if your car really DOES need such a large breather-pipe. I literally just fitted mine without the hoses, came in here, and read this thread. =-o

ahhh.. so whoever did the conversion actually wired up the reverse-switch on the gearbox eh? On an auto, I think the switch is in the gear-selector. So.. it's been hooked up, but blows fuses... and the beeper whines. I'd take a guess and suggest that there is a short somewhere that causes the beeper to stay on, and the fuse to blow. I wonder if the beeper runs off a relay?

If the gub-screw part has come out, try pushing it hard in while turning anti-clockwise (if you are facing the front of the car)

gw Steve-o

w00t! =-]

So has anyone taken a night-pic for us? ;o)

I was going to have a guess and say; since my O2 sensor doesn't appear to be working properly, and the ECU is running richer at idle/low revs, that possibly it is backfiring on too much fuel? I hope this is not just an uneducated guess, and i'll soon see when my NGK O2 sensor arrives. Incidentally, i'm also running an aftermarket BOV. How's your fuel economy, Kennedy?

Oosh is probably right actually... since the pressure in the system isn't leaking into the head or anything, then the radiator cap is letting the pressure go.

Hmm.. and it is the same on my series 2 R33.. Wondering if it is getting too hot where it is and not igniting properly sometimes? Anyone with a series 1 R33 experiencing the idle shudder? Also, Ed... does that free ipod thing actually work? I've seen the same scheme for car head units. =-]

I've seen auto cars with a shift lock, so i'd guess that it is for locking an electric auto gearbox into gear. As for the reverse prob, I have it too on my R33, and i've been told that there is a reverse-switch on the gearbox. I've located what I beleive it to be, and it has a wiring harness on it. Makes sense though... how else do the lights know when to come on? =-]

Nice work mate! Hopefully this expains why I saw no improvement!

Mine has started doing it in the last week or two... Just a quick shudder and a gurgle from the stock exhaust system. Only when warm. Interesting! I thought I was due for new spark plugs, cause it sounds like an occasional miss. Do 34's have the ignitor in the ECU or engine bay?

If your oil isn't milky, then I'd guess the head gasket is ok... Definately due for a flush if it's brown... several flushes of the radiator i'd assume. One of my previous cars did this, and I knew all along that the thermostat (upper radiator hose) was dead. It doesn't retain the pressure of the system, thus making it overheat, and thus letting it all flow right back to the overflow bottle and onto the road. LOL.. those were fun times!

I think you'll find everyone will tell you to use the "search" feature when you ask these sorts of questions... The manual is in a thread here somewhere, or you can download the Nissan FAST software.

yeah true... I couldn't find the part number in FAST though.

I queried earlier in this thread whether; if the existing sensor is dead, and the ROX207 isn't compatible with some R33's, whether there would be no change at all? I would think so, looking at it logically. Considering I have pretty much no mods, i'd expect better economy than what I have now. 350km out of 50L fill = 7km per litre. Terrible! =-o

Doesn't appear to have made any at all.. I have just ordered the NGK part from AutoOne at $150. Steep, but I don't want to stuff around anymore... and it's still cheaper than the Nissan price. =-]

NGK, not Bosch sorry: (this is all one line URL) http://www.ngk.com.au/part_index.htm?http:...T6cyl+DOHC+Rear

BTW: I used this part, and it made no difference for me, but whether or not the check engine light will come on is a different question. There is a light for the heat sensor in the cat, so i'd guess that the engine light won't come on for the 02 sensor. The consult software should tell me what the reading is on it. Also, as mentioned a few times in this thread, the wire on the ROX207 cannot be soldered, you have to crimp.