RANDY

AutoOne can order them in for you, using the code from the NGK website. As a few people pointed out, your sensor may not be dead, and I suspect that is the deal in my case. I wanted to change it anyway, as it looked to be the original unit. I haven't touched the sparkies yet. I get 350 to a tank now, pretty consistantly... so... slight improvement? I think it'd be interesting to know what most other people without a problem get to a tank. A couple in this thread said 400-500 per tank... but is that normal? What size tank? Which fuel and what mods?

My R33 using SRtalk reported my TPS at 8% when idle. It seems to measure voltage like an 02 sensor would. With Conzult-free, it measured 0.42v or something. So I dunno about these discrepencies... Those two programs are the easiest to setup and start using right away, OBD and TECU were fussy for me, and TECU didn't support a COM port above 4, so it didn't want to look at my USB consult cable. =-/ Calumsult I never got working.... full package or not. I'm currently looking into getting the full (Conzult-sx)Conzult program, but at $75 Euro's, it's pretty pricey. =-[ The free version does a lot of monitoring, but I wanted the ECU-learning reset feature and all the other tests such as the HICAS, A/C etc...

Pretty much disconnect it, or disconnect the battery. In either case, it needs to be for 30 minutes or so. Note the settings that it was on when you turned it off, and when you disconnect and reconnect it, the settings should be back to default. Then it's reset.

But some guy wanted the actuators... might be an idea to look at the pic, and sus out the wiring to the actuators? "I am after the 2 control actuaters that go on the side of the heater unit if you can give me your details i will call and arange something to get them of your hands, cheers .Andrew "

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...90932&hl=heater "Anyone who has that clicking noise when you start your R33 from behind the dash, the bit you need is shown in the 3rd pick down - black box on top of heater box. " Oh.. maybe the clicking is BAD? My temps all work though!

Not in particular, but there was a pic of the switch on the heaterbox in the for sale section, and I asked about it in there. I'll have a quick dig.

I was about to suggest that... all the head units i've come across require you to set the bass/mid/treble for radio and CD independantly. Funnily enough, i've always found radio to be bassier than CD's!! The new HU in my Skyline is the same... just like my last car. Weird!

Good point on the voltage regulator! I changed mine on my Commodore twice, and it was an easy thing to do. My Skyline runs fine, but it would be interesting to see what this guys Mitsubishi alternator is setup like. (i'd suggest buying a cheap Nissan/bosch alternator from a wreck to test if all else fails)

ah well... there you go! I thought the 33's weren't ball bearing, but i'm happy to know that I have a plastic compressor wheel!

sounds like it. I think there's a mechanical switch on the heater box? Does your dash make a bunch of clicking noise when changing the temp?

I saw it when I did my clutch. I have the plug, but haven't installed it yet. The plug is on the drivers side, facing the side of the car. If you can get under the car, it's just up the side of the gearbox. Should be able to get to it without removing anything. That's what it looked like at the time anyway. =-]

yyyes... INTARNET! HARR! /me slaps you both around a bit with a large cawk.

Ah ok... interesting

Zahos... tough luck then man.. your car sounds like its healthy the way it is. How did you check your timing? I think mine runs more advance than that at idle, and i'm not sure if my car is really tuned correctly. I checked my timing once using a consult cable.

Actually... it almost sounds like one of your plugs isn't firing at all! lumpy idle?

I also read that the ethanol content acts as a cleaning agent, and will dislodge dirt and cloggage in your fuel system/injectors etc. Possibly you stuck it in, and then it dislodged dirt which then got piled up somewhere else? Checked your fuel filter lately? In any case, if the stuff doesn't work for you, fair enough. =-]

Mine does too... Premier 475 or something? Cost 500 including a solanoid for remote boot release. =-]

Midnight, you're welcome mate... I could see that noone was really giving any explanation as to its use. elite: I can see your point too, but I really don't want anyone to think that I installed one purely because it was shiny. If mine catches some oil, then i'll leave it in place. I'm about to change my intercooler over to an R34 unit, so if there is a substantial oily film through my intercooler, then i'll know that it WILL make a difference. If the can does nothing at all for me, then i'll just remove it. Anyways... take it easy on each other guys. Everyone has their own preference. =-]

Neo setup has a bigger core intercooler, slightly bigger turbo with ball-bearings... Probably other enhancements, but from what I know: R33 = 185kw R34 = 206kw (max allowed in Japan, but the motor probably puts out more)

I thought Optimax was 96 or something? They stopped printing "98 ron" on their bowsers 'round here AGES ago, and MRT's fuel-comparison pretty much showed that it was on par with some 95ron fuels... Caltex Vortex 98 was the best non-ethanol performer, and above that was E10 and then aviation fuel. So to go from 95-96ron fuel straight up to 100ron+, i'd imagine the ECU would have a hard time adjusting so rapidly. It would be interesting to see what the knock sensor and timing is doing when that happens! Might have to sus that out!

LOL! farny you guy is!

Try posting in the correct section, there are heaps of guys with wrecks that will sell you one.

Should be able to get the Nissan part numbers from their FAST software. My install doesn't include the r32's though. Search for a thread about general maintenance parts... someone asked for part numbers in there, and someone else gave a FAST screenshot of all the part numbers for an R32.

neither, they are designed to help filter out oil particles in the air that comes out. The air makes it back round your intake system, including front-mount.... the less oil you have in all that, the better your system will cool the air. It may only be a fine film of oil, but the hot air won't conduct through the oil and onto the surfaces of the intercooler as efficiently as if there were no oil in at all.

Easiest way I recken is what I have. Nissan USB consult cable for $130, and SRTalk (free). Plug it into your laptop, and you can see the duty cycle and pulse width. This would be for one-off testing I guess.. different story if you want to watch your injectors on a daily basis.