ak_stylez

hey everyone, looked under my radiator cap about 5 months after having installed a new alloy radiator, and the coolant has turned from a nice clean green to a dirty brown. the state of the coolant was quite poor (even worse) before i replaced the radiator, and at the time we only flushed the system with water. My mechanic said the rusty water might return until i flushed it thoroughly with one of those radiator flush cleaner things from supacheap. so, now its time to do just that. i had a look at some threads via search, and also a copy of the manual i found on the internet. before getting started, i just wanted to make sure I had everything I needed. here's a list of things i'll need that i compiled from both the manual and various threads: coolant (about 10L) coolant flush sealing agent to coat the cylinder block drain plug thread (referred to as: three bond 1386B in the manual.) car jack/ramp. I'm thinking a trolley jack, will probably come in handy time and time again. anyone know how much a good one costs? car stands to put under the car once raised copper washer (to replace upon refitting) for the air release plug near intake plenum. (anyone know what size??) plus things I already have: socket set basic tools, eg spanners, screw drivers, pocket knives etc etc. as i'm a bit of a novice when it comes to working on my car, i'd really appreciate any tips or advice people can offer. i plan on taking photos and making a thorough DIY for this forum. have i left anything out that i'll need? and a few specific questions i have already. where exactly is the jacking point for the front of the car using a trolley jack? the picture in the manual is not too clear. also where is the block drain plug for the coolant? left or right side of block? i don't wanna confuse it with say... the oil plug and drain the wrong system! ahhh sorry for the long winded thread. thanks for any help

lol u sure that'll be enough?

Hey ppl, although this isn't skyline related, im banking a lot of you will share a common interest in games... anyone planning on going to this exhibition? a friend of mine went and said it was awesome. http://www.acmi.net.au/game_on.aspx can't wait to let out my inner geek

didn't say they did it. but the NS camp doesn't have a nice big tent of members to deter malicious wrong doers.

i am so in for a great ocean road cruise. but I work weekends . any other day im in! ill even miss uni for it :D

note to self: don't enter the f1 gp auto salon with NS regardless of how late an entry they accept. my car's been tampered with on more than one occasion. worst of which the front grill shows signs of attempted removal, not limited to broken clips

bump im now considering interstate offers on easy to ship items: safc2, r34 smic, r33 smic, cat, decat pipe. bigger items still melbourne only. offers, picture requests, questions please post here or pm

any suggestions? when an engine experiences severe knock, can it be expected to significantly reduce the power output so much so that its hardly noticeable? is it possible the fuel pump could be over/under supplying causing the mixture to run very rich/lean? i'd think very very rich would give similar behaviour, but what are the odds of that? the problem is, on the dyno the boost is pretty flat (fluctuates between 11 - 12 psi) and everything appears normal. heres a (bad) picture of my latest dyno sheet EDIT: took out the boost controller. back to stock boost and car is 100% fine. time to save for an EBC. moral of this story? dont trust a $30 ebay boost tap

mods are: 3" turbo back with metalcat fmic pfc pod with box stock turbo with a turbotech boost controller that's meant to be set at 12psi the rest is stock i thought about clutch slip, but wouldn't the engine rev out?

hey everyone, noticed some strange behaviour a couple of times, wondering what might be the cause. background: im having a little trouble with my boost controller at the moment, it seems to have a mind of its own and will overboost up to some pretty scary numbers. when this happens, knock level goes through the roof on the pfc hand controller, but only for an instant. so short an instant in fact that the engine light doesnt flash (or i dont notice it) the following has happened exactly twice: if im driving hard in third, then i quickly shift to 4th, as soon as i put my foot down the car will feel like it has no power at all, it doesnt even rev. both times i backed off straight away so as to prevent any damage to the engine. the first time, max knock level was at 149 and peak boost at ~1.5 bar the second time i had the hand controller on the map tracer so i didnt see the max knock, but peak boost was at about ~1.4 bar i dont know what knocking sounds like, but from the descriptions ive been told, i did not hear any knocking either time. can anyone shed some light on this? thanks p.s. on a side note: if i have the hand controller on the map tracer, do some driving, then switch back to the channel monitors, will the max levels have updated? or do they stay the same as they were before i changed to map tracer?

"oh sorry officer, the bonnet doesn't seem to be opening!.... i guess you can't inspect my engine bay "

i dont think so. just means u can't open the bonnet by pulling on the latch from inside the cabin.

any updates on what the station said?

nope, because i had previously opened it and nothing fell out. even so, spring would not have helped reduce boost as without it, it acts the same as having it on the lowest setting.

hey people, thought id post an update to my findings. after some thorough diagnostics in conjunction with my workshop, we found that the boost controller was at fault. it seems it's missing the spring which holds the ball in place until the desired pressure is reached. this explains why no adjustment to the screw had an effect on the boost level. however, it doesn't explain why the boost is spiking so much, as the lack of a spring would make the ball "open" immediately thus providing the lowest boost possible. nevertheless, upon removal of the controller, the boost was no longer spiking. turns out this actually explains a lot of my car's mysteries. since fitting the controller (along with a few other mods) ive had a slew of problems ranging from R&R, knocking, overboosting etc etc which i can now relate back to this. not trying to knock the product (no pun intended), just thought i'd share my experiences with the community. good to see it's worked well for most, but obviously its not for all. luckily theres been no permanent damage to my car, as i was always quick to back off when it overboosted/knocked

so... just swap the two hoses around? edit: here are some pictures of how its installed currently. sorry bout the bad lighting took em last night with my phone.

bought one of these a few months ago... around september 07. I had it professionally installed by a performance workshop and havent touched it until recently. i upgraded my intercooler and found that my car was over boosting so i tried to reduce the boost. heres where the problem started, i cant seem to change the boost of the car. first i had the turbotech open all the way, then closed all the way, then i tried with the screw completely out and finally open all the way again. each time the boost spikes to about 1.5 bar which is quite scary for a ceramic turbo. am i doing something wrong? oh whats more, i'm hearing a strange noise from the engine bay now. sort of a "ch ch ch ch ch". think of a chu chu train. sounds like air leaking from somewhere?

no difference between r33 s1 and s2 pfc. either will work for either series.

hows the wood/glass on the tv unit?

r34 smic for sale. added to first post. also have r33 smic if anyone wants it.

are you sure this will allow u to drive it? it's still registered as a rb25det............ lets see what 31nismoid says

nismo stripes sold. rest is still for sale.

my cars filthy id love to come... but alas i'm working on saturday have fun without me peeps if you guys are still out at about 1am ill come

perfect. thanks for the picture chris. incidentally, what brand cooler is that? at the moment i'm leaning towards the trust m spec kit. I'm fairly sure the piping looks similar

Hey people, Did a search, couldn't find anything. I currently have a thick (52mm) alloy radiator and I'm trying to choose a fmic. regarding the piping, will the return pipe that bends around over the radiator and to the plenum fit with my larger radiator? does anybody have any pictures of a similar setup on an rb25? thanks