ak_stylez

how does the diameter of the momo wheel compare to that of a stock r33 steering wheel? same or smaller? also, is it a straight connection? airbag still intact? no messing around?

heaps of interstate interest.... but no melbournians?

willing to separate? how much for just the pfc

Replying to a few picture requests At this stage I'd prefer local buyers...

Hey people, just cleaning out the garage. all items located in Melbourne inner north. prefer local pickup. I'll consider posting on the smaller items if buyer pays postage. all prices neg, but please no silly offers. Item: R33 GTR style front bar with custom indicators. black Age: ~1 year Condition: very good, small crack can be fixed Price: $300 To Fit: R33 gts/t Item: R33 GTS-t discs and pads (front and rear) Age: unsure Condition: discs still have some meat need machining, pads are about 50% i'd say Price: $200 To Fit: R33 + maybe some others, you guys might know better than me Item: R33 GTS-t front and rear sway bar (complete with fittings) Age: off a 96 s2 Condition: perfect condition. upgraded so need to go Price: $100 each To Fit: R33 Item: nismo stripes sticker kit Age: new Condition: perfect, still rolled up never used. I bought this for my car but the colour scheme (red black silver) does not suit a black car. best on white or silver car Price: SOLD To Fit: r32, r33, r34, s13, s14, s15, camry, whatever. Item: R33 GTS-t suspension. springs & shocks (front and rear) Age: off a 96 s2 Condition: shocks are pretty worn. springs are fine Price: SOLD To Fit: R33 Item: R33 GTS-t original nissan front + rear speakers plus double din nissan cd + tape head unit (all clarion) Age: off a 96 s2 Condition: all works fine Price: $150 To Fit: heaps of cars Item: 3" decat pipe (black) Age: was only on car for 1 week Condition: virtually brand new. excellent condition Price: $80 To Fit: R32, R33 + perhaps others Item: standard compliance R33 cat Age: used for about 6 months Condition: excellent condition. no damage whatsoever still clean and straight on the inside Price: $150 To Fit: R32, R33 + perhaps others Item: apex'i SAFC 2 Age: only on car for a few months Condition: as new (still has clear plastic sticker over face) Price: SOLD To Fit: skylines, silvia plus many more Item: r34 smic Condition: excellent. couple of bent fins easily fixed Price: $200 To Fit: r33/34 straight bolt on. r32 slight modification.

these the pipes that return to the stock piping?

Sorry Duncan, don't wanna remove the globe that's why I got the tomei kit instead of a lock bar. As for other faults, power steering fluid is full, and steering in general is smooth and light (just like before the hicas lock). Any other possible faults? I'll get the mech to go over the wiring tomorrow. Basically as soon as it's wired up the light should be off? doesn't need to be "activated" or anything?

Hey everyone. My mechanic installed and wired up the Tomei hicas lock unit onto my r33 gtst today and despite our best efforts, we can't get the light to switch off. I tried entering the diagnostic mode (about 20 odd times) and it simply will not work! Here's what I'm doing: turn ignition to on and immediately start engine turn steering wheel to the left 20 degrees then to the right. repeat this a total of 6.5 times (so as to end on the left again). pump the brake pedal 6 times all within 10 seconds of starting the engine. has anyone had any similar experiences with this unit? any help much appreciated.

damnit just saw this thread now! I would have loved this. when is the next course?

lol dude thats awesome. any vids of u puttin it up?

whats your best price?

well if that's the case, is it safe to fit the pfc and drive around with it on the base tune while the CAS is at 10? (easy driving no fanging) car has: 3" turbo back r34 smic stock turbo @ 10 psi pod in box

so just to clarify guilt toy, i do this BEFORE fitting the power fc?

I did read a few mentions of using a timing light, but I assumed that was if you were unsure of the default CAS setting. If i know that the default CAS is 15 degrees, can't I just set it at 15? or is the angle not evident from the outside?

Hey, CAS on my r33 gtst is currently set at 10 degrees (retarded because stock ecu was advancing too much). I've got myself a power fc which I'm about to install and drive around with for a few weeks before i get it dyno tuned. I figure before I fit the pfc i should return the CAS back to 15 (default?). is this easy with just the basic tools? how do I get the right angle? does the CAS click with each degree or do I need to pull out the old protractor? clockwise or anticlockwise? searched but couldnt find much on specifically adjusting the CAS. thanks in advance

scooby? can anyone else recommend a suitable descaling agent to use? not sure what that is...

i had the factory suspension, and the shockers were all but gone. regardless the bilstien/whiteline kit is superb. car handles very well.

hey scooby. can you recommend a good descaling agent? and what do you mean by the backs of the wheels? on the actual rim? Thanks

are you suggesting faulty rotors or that's just the way they are?

if thats what it takes

definitely go the SK bilstien/whiteline kit. i got full set up for my 33 and it really is amazing. completely transformed the car.

Hey everyone, Here's the story... I bought a full set of rda slotted and ebc red stuff back in august. i had them professionally installed and bed-in by my local mechanic and immediately they were exhibiting some unusual brake squeal. it was unusual in that, the harder i pressed the brakes, the louder the noise became. regardless of how warm or hot the brakes got the screech was ever present. in fact when the pads got hotter the noise seemed to get louder! the only silence I had was on the first few brakes in the morning after the car had been sleeping over night. After searching on the forums I tried using some of that red brake goo, but that did exactly diddly squat. the noise was still there with no change. I took the car to a few performance workshops, and they all said it was because of my combination of rda rotors and ebc redstuff. both being hard, the pads weren't able to "bite" into the rotor and so they slipped (vibrated) across and made the noise. all the workshops recommended that if I put some ebc greenstuff instead it'd be all sweet and dandy. So... just recently i got some green stuff (again with professional installation and bed in). much to my dismay the noise is still there, albeit with different behaviour. this time if i run the car through a series of hard braking (60 to 10 kmh about 7 times), the pads go completely silent... until they cool (even after a few minutes) where the noise slowly increases as the pads cool further. also, at normal street driving temperatures, the pads seem to squeak (slightly) less if i press hard. but they're still pretty damn loud either way, sometimes almost deafening. I've run out of ideas, and moreover this squeaking is making me DREAD the thought of driving my car . something no skyline owner should have to experience! can anybody PLEASE offer any suggestions? if you live in melbourne and think you might have a solution I'd be more than happy to meet you somewhere and pop ur ear drums for u (yes it really is that bad sometimes) if you can help me fix my problem you WILL be rewarded!. I'm getting pretty desperate and i fear my sanity is fast deteriorating

boooo i demand a recount! jk congrats to all the winners, time to start preparing for next year

do we need to sign up for this or just show up? hmmm same day as drift fest and mt. baw baw cruise...

Thanks Kaz! Had a great time, a lot of really nice cars. And great to see no heroes doriing down the road lol. Like the other newbies, I didn't really get to meet many people, kinda hard to infiltrate Glad to finally be part of the team. Can't wait for the next cruise/track day and hopefully learning some new names