Truffles

Well, you're going to have to cop it on the chin or move somewhere that is more favourable. When comparing prices of vehicles between say Australia and the USA, people overlook the fact that 100k is a lot more in the USA then over here, respectively. The annual median wage over there are exceedingly low compared to here. That's without taking into account shipping, demand and various other factors such as LCT, we do get the poor end of the deal but it's life.

Can't import either for road registering purpose, both for the same reason.

As I mentioned in my above post, take the appropriate measures to correct it and you will be fine. It's not serious but if you don't want your car to run like a pig than I'd reccomend fixing it.

I'll hazard a guess that this is your problem, too. Essentially, the stock rb20 has a pipe that recirculates the released from the BOV back into the intake to be reused. When you remove the pipe or run an atmo BOV, your ecu still thinks the air being released back into your intake and adjusts the air/fuel ratio accordingly. Regardless if the air is there or not it will distribute the fuel, which is why it's running rich. Too much fuel for the amount of air going back in. The remedies are either getting a stock bov and recirculating pipe or getting your car tuned for the new BOV, from which it will no longer make the assumption that the air released by the BOV is going back into the intake.

But did they know it, or were they "victims"? That's the relevant point I'm making. How is thinking a car is a legitimate article, whether it be what it is or the kilometers on the dash any different? At one point in time it's been altered to be something it isn't. As you stated, it is a different senario but the basic premise is the same.

Not if this legal precedent catches on throughout Australia. Link; http://m.news.com.au/QLD/fi1617141.htm

That is exactly why people use a nistune. The stock ecu is very good, within reason and its limits. The nistune takes the same functionality and gives it the ability to be fully tunable in an aftermarket sense. Otherwise you might aswell just get a power fc. Completely different car and engine when comparing the R32 Rb20 and R33 Rb25 is a bit of a dramatic comparison.

I have less underbody rust (albeit that's mostly surface rust) on my R32. Definitely saved you going down there and being disappointed. As said, it's not on that bad condition but given the price you'd expect a lot more.

But since it wasn't a statutory write-off, it was obviously assessed as being able to be repaired effectively. A vandal could dent and scratch up every panel on a 20k car and have it written off for economical reasons. Not saying this is the case, but until all the facts are known only assumptions can be made.

He was (and I'm sure you've assumed) figuratively speaking. Nissan made a conscious decision to keep the 'Nissan GTR' as a seperate entity from the Skyline legacy, despite being a spiritual successor. The 370Z has filled the void of the relevant Skyline GTS-T model at this time, since nissan has decided that V6's and not straight 6's are the way to go. In relative terms of performance and price compared to Skyline generations past, I'd say it's about a par.

I know you're concerned about the resale value of your new car but if you really do like the car and enjoy it, when will selling it even be an option? Given that it was a repairable write-off means that they deemed the car as having the ability to be repaired to near original standards. It was a shit thing for the seller to do and I know you feel very disappointed but if the car is now straight, you look after it and be honest with any potential buyers when you come to sell it then I think you'll do okay. As Mad said, a car can be deemed as a "repairable write-off" for a multitude of reasons that don't constitute the car being f**ked. I know a guy who had his 90's land cruiser with a lot of money put into it written off for a small dent on a guard and clear coat peeling on the roof + bonnet. Edit: Personally, I nearly had my first car ('98 Lancer CE coupe) written off because the drivers door/guard got backed into and they quoted something absurd like $3800 to repair it.

All be said. Mad is right, as usual. Your car seems to have all three optioned. Whomever purchased it got a spec'd up model.

Aftermarket ECUs are generally illegal, regardless of what they're tuned for. Particularly from an EPA point of view, as it changes the emissions level of the car. I'm not familiar with the particulars of the matter but to have an aftermarket ECU approved (if you even can), you have to have the car emission approved and have the tune locked so it cannot be edited. At any rate, it's of course easier to just swap back to a stock ECU as opposed to jumping through all the respective hoops.

It didn't. Which leads me to believe it could be the same thing. The symptoms are similar to when an intercooler pipe is blown, but worse.

Should have mentioned it, but yes I did. Cheers.

Hey SAU I just walked outside to start my R32 and it point blank refused to run. It will turn over and begin to start, but then instantly stall before you can build revs. A few days ago, I had to take a recirculation pipe off the BOV and give it back to my friend for him to sell his car. I then replaced it with the blanking plate which was on the car when I purchased it (for hectic dosing, yo) and reset the ecu. Before you say this is the reason, the car ran for months with the plate on it until I could get a recirculation pipe. So chances are this is not the cause of the problem. I'm guessing it could be fuel or vaccum/intercooler piping related but since it's an aftermarket fuel pump, I can hear it whirling away when I put the car in acc, as well as the injectors fueling when I start it. Mods: PWR return flow FMIC Stock R34 RB25 turbo Yellow jacket coilpacks 3 inch turbo back exhaust greddy prospec II EBC Bosch 040 fuel pump If anyone has any ideas or thoughts before I do something drastic, it would be much appreciated.

You're right, my bad. Thinking rb25 actuator.

There's no way to lower the boost below the standard actuator point (7psi at the actuator). why don't you want 11psi?

There is already a thread about it; http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/387355-nissan-skyline-r34-gtr-z-tune-for-sale/page__pid__6178083__st__20#entry6178083 No, it's not a joke and no he won't get one million dollars for it. Tell 'em they're dreamin'.

Have a look if there is one in your engine bay. Passenger side on the strut tower housing. If there isn't, they may have re-wired it into the boot. Edit: That might not be exactly it, but it's the exact shape and appears to be the same size. So as above, I'm guessing it's fuel related.

Mad hit the nail on the head. Just because it's a Skyline doesn't make it unreliable. It's a 20+ year old car, so you're going to assume things needs replacing. People say they're unreliable because idiots buy them, flog the shit out of it without looking after it and complain when they break. Doesn't matter what the car is, but if you run it hard without taking the necessary precautions; it breaks. First of all; don't take your speedo as gospel. They're known to be woundback/swapped to a lower km cluster. If there's a 100,000km service sticker with Japanese on it or residue from one on the front of your cam cover, it means it had the 100,000km service in Japan. So use that as a reference (look at the compliance plate. If it was imported in 1997 and it had a 100,000km service in japan then having 120,000km on the cluster in 2012 is farfetched). Since it's a non-turbo, reliability is less of an issue as the car won't be making as much power and there aren't as many parts to maintain. Inspect/change what mad said and perhaps check over all of your hoses/fittings/vacuum lines.

It's a genuine Garrett. Don't know if that's a good price or not though.

Wouldn't be a financially viable option, even if you could locate one. Goodluck, however.

If it's stock it will be roughly the same as mad said, maybe a little more. It's when you start upgrading things like your cooling or fuel systems you can start playing around, as you can run things more towards their capacity. If your car is completely stock, for the price of a nistune ($1000) you'd be best getting a FMIC and a boost controller and putting the boost up to 12psi. You will see a larger increase from stock then a tune alone.

You just signed up, so good on you. As for price debates; it's obvious the OP is in a hurry to sell, so people were just offering a bit of insight into a price that would move his car more quickly. Whether he chooses to use said advice is his choice and irrelevant. The moderators enforce the rules, whether members abide by them or not is not your responsibility to respond.