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Bl4cK32

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Everything posted by Bl4cK32

  1. I know what you mean by the 17's being better for traction. But I've already got a set of 18's here, so that kinda nails it I only really intend to have the car as a personal car more than drift/drag/circuit car. I'd like to go out to see how the setup handles, but im not overly worried about how much grip i can get for the 1/4. Just the best street setup. Plus those damn deep dish 18's look sooo phat Might have to see if the 255x40x18's fit the rear, and the 235x40x18's on the front...
  2. If u got an oil temp gauge ( i got a oil pressure one as well) dont worry about it, just keep an eye on it. I think oil sh*ts it at 140 deg. so saty below that and you'll be fine. Other wise id be careful about track work....drifto should be ok though...:boinkcar:
  3. Yeah I just spoke to the local tyre joint told him what size the rims were and he got out his books... on the front (8.5" wide x 18 inch) he reckons i should go 235x40x18. on the rears (9.5" wide x 18 inch - yes it will fit and offset is correct ) i can fit anywhere from 235 x 40 x 18 to 255 x 35 x 18 to 265 x 35 x 18 There's no advantage over having the 255x35 to the 235x40 (except traction:)) other than the cost factor (40 profile is more common) I reckon the 35 profile looks better, but i guess i want more traction than handling....i dunno. But yer cheapest option was a set of Falkens (sp?) 235x40 all over for $270 ea Whatsisname - i am interested in the Nittos, but i dunno where to find them. Online is probably the way to go. The guy at the tyre joint said "Never heard of those one's":)
  4. Yer id be interested, but i dont wanna throw in the oil cooler till ive run it in.... And yes i wanna go at "overzealous-braking"
  5. I used an rb20 one cos it has three section with a ribbed flat belt in each section, where the rb30 one has 3 as well, but the centre section was for a v groove belt.
  6. An RB20 has 78mm bores (from memory), and a Rb30 has 86mm bores. That must be major mods to make it fit considering it wont go on.... :Oops:
  7. very funny let us know your results
  8. So where is it then ??
  9. Anyone go today?? I liked the grey R32 (no biased opinions here ) Also thought the white Dr30?? was pretty cool. So was James and Trent though Damn that rally spec commie can go at it:) If they made em like that from the factroy i would sell the line
  10. Both rims are +35 offset. Dont need to worry about tyres though, cos a mate is a salesman at one of the local tyre joints Cheap Bridgestone RE550's here i come (or nittos if i still cant get traction )
  11. Yer, i need some big sticky stuff I think they will fit. A guy on SDU had 17x9.5 on the back and 17x8.5 on the front. Im guessing the extra inch in height wont matter
  12. So Sydneykid...What sort of powerlevel would be considered a safe "reliable" limit for the rb31? How far can i get it tuned for everyday driving??
  13. ......no worries
  14. Thats what im afraid of. I want it to be reiable, so less than 350rwkw say 330 rwkw - would this stop banana rods? :bananaman
  15. But Who Here Doesnt Love The Rush!!!
  16. I think thats whats stopping me Steve. he fact that its up to 10g's up in one hit. I have just put the deposit on the GT35/40R + manifold (cheaper than the 3037s by itself!) so we'll see how that goes... So seeing as i got this now...the weakest item is the conrods i presume now? What sort of power level is safe for the std RB30 rods?? Anyone??
  17. Over $10K and i havent bought the turbo setup yet
  18. Well...Im going for the Garrett GT35/40R now....I think. I can get it brand new for $1950, where as the HKS 3037s is closer to 3k mark. Brand new the turbo sells for like $5k from BD4's (Yes i know the whole kit is $10K Steve ) It comes down to cash i suppose...even though like u said Steve, u probably end up paying the same in the end anyway:( PS - Rubber and a wheel alignment are no problemo compared to choosing this turbo and actually FINDING someone who can supply one for a decent price
  19. If my 3" front is ok I was just gunna go Jap brand 3.5" catback and 3.5" cat. Bolt on
  20. Well as it stands, I can get the HKS 3037s 56t (0.87 exh) with a HKS cast manifold...or I can get a GT35/40R turbo with a 0.8 exh. housing with the same cast manifold.... Now Im confused...so the GT35/40R would be ok for 330 ish rwkw on an RB31DET? Not too laggy? How would it go with the 0.8 ex.housing? By the way steve i got some 265's im trying to squeeze in there As for application...well how about till im satisfied
  21. Specs: R32 RB25DE NA Head - $750 (purchase) + $880 (Rebuild/Work) Stock cams Inlet 240dur 7.8mm Lift Exhaust 232dur 7.3mm Lift Very mild port & polish job mainly concentrating on the bowl area of the exhaust port. Inlet valves deshrouded Inlet valve seats have had a 3 angle seat job done. Exhaust valves have had another type of seat job that is best for the airflow direction. Head, manifolds & plenum port matched. Stainless Steel Headgasket with built in O-Ring (Looks like it has 3 layers?!) Series II VL Commodore RB30E NA Short Motor - $3450 Crack Tested - Crank, Rods & Block. 87mm RB25DET Wiesco forged pistons ~8.5:1CR RB20DET oil pump Nissan Rod bolts Nissan Head bolts King Performance Bearings Blue printed Os Giken twin plate & flywheel. Balanced using the Heinz Balancer to 1 gram This one
  22. With mine i found u could not drive it slow at all...bitch in the car parks -everyone thinks u are going to dump it when u take off try not to ride it, but find the sweet spot where its a happy medium:)
  23. Is it just me or is Mallala getting a bit of Promo now? Everyone at my work says "Are u goin?" and im like....."Maybe, but i prefer the one at Pt Gawler".....then i get a confused look as they say "They have one out there too??"
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