Bl4cK32

my car is sprayed black with blue pearl, and a metallic fleck. u can see the blue/fleck anytime the sun is out.

I need to do the same, as mine refused to go into diag. mode. I was gunna do as BHdave said and fit them like that...good to know its possible though

i run an alloy 1 piece in my r32 in between a rb25det box, and a nismo gt pro 2 way diff. Never had any problems with vibration at any speed.

i believe the voltage drops under load. Did he test it then?

if u have abs on the car that is what the sensor is on the rear diff. If u have an accident, and u farked around with it u might find yer in the shit.... a light on the dash could be anything...which one in particular?

how much is it worth to you?

Ive heard of a couple of guys here whove killed a ignitor from letting it just hang there....

Coils and ignitor are top of the list on electrical items in skyliens that cause a missfire when hot. Just because a car has these symptoms, doesnt mean run out and spend $$ on splitfires or a new ignitor. Normal people diagnose the problem first before spending...

why bother paying someone elses freight + 10% markup

racebrakes do cod to your door. im running them now

sounds like ignitotor...

s5 rx7 are the ones im using, and they are a straight fit. I got my 6 for $350 off the forums here

how do u know it was the coils at fault to start with?

buzzz....wrong. Ive found a bloke here in Adelaide who can sell me pairs of hc3 for around $25 a pair Unfortunatly he is in the US atm, and wont be back till mid Nov.

h3c is std r32 (if not your lucky) They cost a bit to replace, so if u can find em cheap let us all know. Im adding a diag. to the tutorials soon on how to add relays to the system to stop the switch burning out, which improves std brightness also...

As I explained before - i was referring to : does that sound like short term or long term?...i dont care what u or others say, as i know what i was referring to - this quote ^ I thought mods were supposed to set an exapmle. How about reading what people write on the forums, and not criticise others for their opinion, but rather ask for an explanation instead of calling stupid.

Hey me too now Kills the pain nicely....for the most part....as u know Sorry to hear about the death in the family..

I must be reading something wrong duncan? How does the clutch have vacuum assistance, if it doesnt have any vacuum lines going to it, and its a separate system?

Stainless is worth it if u keep the car a long time. Mild steel is more prone to rust, but most ppl dont keep their cars long enough to see these things....

How much are we talking, and are they new from Nissan?

flyn here on the forums has split dumps for $99

noice

U can get dud new replacements though, as i found out. I replaced my master and bled it but it still had a slow leak ( put your foot on the pedal resting and it would drop slowly) If the tiniest bit of dirt gets in, it can fark the seals. I did buy a set for one of the guys interstate and posted them out to him, so i may be able to do it again if ppl didnt mind paying for my time/petrol to organise clutch master/slaves from all clutch and brake here in SA

yes we are old bastards now few of the origional motors running around....still going strong though means excellent builder

Well your wrong. Boost is controlled by the right foot. Im running a rb20 highflow on mine and its a simple matter of keeping off wot to control how much boost is made. I can put my foot down and run whatever i want ie, my ebc is set to 16psi, but i cant run that much as my coil packs are shagged, so i can go say 1/2 down on throttle to get to 0.5 bar which will still pull to redline. I agree with cubes, choose the turbo to suit the power u want, not just get a gt35r (or larger) cos thats whats recommended on a 3lt motor.