Bozz

You have a headache? I'm the one who banged my head Oh well, sometimes things dont go as planned, it's all the labour of love.... Hopefully I'll have a sleeper at the end of all this trouble that doesn't break driveline components

Am in very pissed off mood tonight. Last Saturday (9 days ago) I started work on pulling the old RB30E 5 speed gearbox out of my R31 Skyline and to install the RB25DET gearbox in its place. Clutch was slipping a fair bit which provoked me to finally do something about fitting the new box. It was expected to be a two day job but today I finally got the damn car back together after a lot of mucking around. Day one, after pulling the gearbox and tailshaft out, I removed the slip yoke from the R31 tailshaft, ready to attach the larger one from the R33. Now is when I realise the slip yoke from the R33 was attached to a non replaceable unijoint that was pressed in place. There goes the idea of finishing it that weekend. Take it to an engineering place. They can't do it economically either. I notice the CV joint is loose and makes a little click when turned side to side. I find out its cheaper to have a single piece tailshaft made up, so I go ahead with having it done. I get quoted $350 with some new replaceable unijoints at the front and rear and a thicker 3" tube for the tailshaft to replace the 2.5" two piece shaft originally installed in the car. I am happy with the quote, tell the company to go ahead, they do, they called me to say its ready and its $350. I get there and look at the marvelous new tailshaft, very well made and I am very satisfied with it. I put it in the boot, go to pay and its $350 plus GST. Now I have nothing against paying a good sum for quality work, but please dont rip me off like this, we are well beyond the point of having to ask if something is ex-GST or inc-GST so why they do this is beyond me. I couldn't care if it was $450 inc GST but I wish companies wouldn't do this. Very easy and successful way to guarantee a customer will never return. Pity because the quality of work and customer service (bar this issue) was outstanding, second to none. Saturday comes and I continue installing the gearbox. I fit the flywheel, line the clutch up by hand and tighten it up, install the gearbox (bloody heavy monster, it is!) and start fabricating a crossmember to suit. Meggala had an R33 crossmember which I used and welded additional 5mm pieces of mild steel to it to widen it so it could bolt up to the floorpan of the R31. No real problems here other than me being a bit careless with the drill while I had a grinding bit on it to enlarge a hole I drilled, it slipped and caught my shirt, tearing it off my back... mmm must learn to be more careful with powerful tools Sunday comes and I'm finishing off customising the crossmember, I almost finish, didnt finish simply because the bloody metal grinding bit I was using on the drill broke and it was too late to go to bunnings to get another one, so I did that today and finished it off. Started to bleed the clutch, turns out the pin in the slave cylinder is not long enough for the '33 gearbox and it shoots out and sprays me with brake fluid while I'm bleeding it. Natural reaction was to lift head up and swear, problem was, right above my head was the floorpan of the car which my head made contact with rather violently so more swearing came out before I got to clean my face of all the brake fluid. I went and found a long bolt, cut the ends off it, ground the ends so they were round and installed that. As I'm tighening the slave cylinder, I hear a crack. ****, I say. I pull out the slave cylinder and i've cracked half of one of the mounting holes. Ignore that, bolt it up again and start bleeding again, this time it bleeds just fine. I get in the car, yank the handbrake on f'ng tight and put it in neutral and start it. Yay it starts, I put it in fifth gear and release the clutch and it almost stalls. ALMOST!!! The clutch fully released and it didn't stall!! OK so I figure the pressure plate is faulty, it means this weekend will be stuck under my car again pulling the gearbox out, replacing the clutch and fitting it again... I hate cars sometimes...

It is being enforced in Victoria, countless people have been booked at 3km/h over the limit, they have complained and have been told that they could have killed people by travelling at such ridiculously insane speeds. I know three people that have been done 3km/h over the limit, two in a 60km/h zone and one in a 100km/h zone.

What are you all on? I'm sure the cable is there to make a spark in the exhaust on high RPM deceleration so people with 6" exhausts can get flames shooting out the back :shake:

In Victoria, a few months ago they reduced the limit of speeding to 3km/h over before getting flashed. So 63km/h in a 60 zone and it's $135. 103km/h in a 100 zone and it's $135 etc... This was announced by Bracksy that it was all for road safety, and they're wasting our money now on full page ads in the major newspapers (and on telly) showing us the hypothetical difference 5km/h can make. We all know 5km/h can make or break an accident, but consider this circumstance which can happen just as EASILY as what they are advertising - One driver is doing 65km/h and another is doing 60km/h. Lets say, 5 minutes later, a kid runs out in front of the driver doing 60km/h and he just manages to stop in time. The driver doing 65km/h would have been WAY past the exact point where the kid would have run out, and if lucky, the driver doing 65km/h would see the kid in the distance in his rear view mirror. Anyway, back to the main topic, if the govt was indeed geniune on reducing the road toll, and genuinely sure that 5km/h faster was life threatening, why didnt they simply reduce all speed limits by 10km/h and leave the penalty for doing 10% over the speed limit, as per the ADR? Why? Because that would return less revenue! Give it a year or two, things will get even worse than this. It will be even if you hit 60km/h then you'll get fined. The reason is the general public is too stupid to write a letter, complain to the local MP, do a burnout outside the local MP's house in protest, etc etc etc. /rant off

Sure do. Its a GTR except for the non flared guards and smaller engine. And gearbox if it's an auto.

Sold my immaculate R32 GTS4 about 5 months ago for $9500 4WD, 4WS, 4 speed auto, RB20DET, ABS, alarm, immobiliser, electric everything, gunmetal grey, 16" factory alloys, KYB adjustable suspension, 2.5" exhaust, electric spoiler, 103,000km genuine with factory service records, never been in a prang (determined by paint depth inspection) etc etc... This car was just perfect. Only one person came to look at it, he loved it and I was going to sell it to him for 11,500 pending him getting quotes for insurance. He didn't get it, being 18yo and having lost his licence once.... Instead I sold it for much less after unsuccesfully advertising it for about 6 months.

Gumby, you wouldn't have lived in Wandin once upon a time...?

Went out and bought one from repco, yes it is identical.

Is the RB25DET rear main oil seal identical to the RB30E? Can they be pulled out and replaced without having to drop the sump and bearing carrier? It's also called the O-ring, is it not? If the RB25DET one is different to the 3 litre, where can I get one in Melbourne, today?

Mick - exactly the same way.

It's easy to check whether it's the CAS or the ignitor module - Get a long thick screwdriver and put the blade on a fuel injector when the engine is running and the handle end against your ear - You'll hear the injector ticking away. When the engine dies, get an assistant to crank the engine and do the same thing with the injector. Ticking injector means your ignitor pack is dead No ticking from the injectors means your ECU, CAS, wiring or immobiliser/alarm is dead.

I've got an R33 RB25DET engine wiring diagram and ECU pinouts, hopefully this will help. http://members.optushome.com.au/pisstnbrok...CR33_Pinout.pdf http://members.optushome.com.au/pisstnbrok.../r33english.jpg Cheers

GT25, made good sense. To delve further into GT25's technique, pull out the spark plug and see the color of it after you swap the coil with the cylinder you suspect to be faulty. If the spark plug of the SAME cylinder does not start firing then your ignitor pack or ECU is faulty, not the coil. If the spark plug of the cylinder you moved the faulty coil to starts not firing, then the coil pack is faulty.

One more thing that sprung to mind - Do you have an alarm/immobiliser installed in the car? If so, what does it immobilise and is it failing?

The tacho is fed from pin 7 of the ECU, if the tacho goes dead it could be any number of things. It wont be the ignitor pack if the tacho drops to zero instantly because the ECU still believes the engine is still running since it will be getting all of the right data back from it, ie from the CAS. It also wont be the air flow meter because, without the air flow meter, the engine will start and idle. The 12v supply going to the ECU may be cutting out. The CAS or wiring may be intermittent. Your ECU may be dying. The ECU loom plug may have a dirty connector - unscrew it and remove it, then replug it in. Unplug and replug the CAS plug as well. Try wiggling the cables when its running to see if you can get it to die. Fuel pump may be dying - check by crimping the fuel return line and if you feel the fuel pulses in it then this isnt the problem. Buy a can of Freeze spray from Jaycar or Dick Smith electronics (MAKE SURE you get the non flammable type), when your engine dies, freeze the crank angle sensor to see if the engine starts up again. Do this with the ECU as well if no response. Unplug the battery if the above fails, leave it off for 5 mins then plug it back in. If this fixes the problem then your ECU is faulty. There isnt much else that the problem could be, IF the tacho drops to zero immedately when the engine dies.

I've only heard of bad and terrible things happening to people who reset their ECU, many have never returned to talk about their experiences.... Here is a picture of what happened to the last person who attempted to reset their ECU: I'm only joking, resetting it is good

The ignition barrel has two wires coming from it when you turn the key to the "start" position. One wire goes the starter motor, the other wire goes to pin 43 of your engine control unit. When you turn the key to the start position, the ECU senses that you are attempting to start the engine by using the starter motor, not attempting to roll start the engine. Since using the starter motor demands a bit over 100 amps of current, your battery voltage falls quite dramatically. To compensate for this, the ECU makes the injector pulses much wider to get the fuel into the motor. It may not do this if you have your foot on the accelerator so it could even be the throttle position sensor faulty or misadjusted. If you had an alarm installed when the problem started occuring, take it back to the butchers... oops I mean installers who fitted your alarm and have them correct it. Cheers

Isnt it on the dashboard on the RHS next to the hazard lamp switch? I could be wrong... Just remember one thing, fog lamps are for fog, dont make yourself look like a braindead twit in an Excel by using them when there is no fog.

A few weeks ago my car decided to have an argument with a gutter and lets just say the gutter won. A chunk of alloy about 20cm long by about 6mm deep was taken out of the edge of the rim by the gutter. Cost $44 dollars to have fixed Steve at Eastern Wheel Works in Bayswater, Melbourne did the job.

First check your belts, odds are they're too loose. Correct tension is when you put about 10nm (approx 1kg) of force on the middle of the belt between the alternator and the water pump (fan) pulley's, the belt should deflect approximately 13mm. I never do this check anymore, I simply tighten it a fair bit to get it streched initially then loosen it a lot till it starts squeaking. Then I tighten it two turns. Pour a little bit of water on the belt in the morning, if the squealing stops immediately, you've found your problem.

I do genuinely have traction issues though I have an almost stock standard R31 Skyline with an engine that has around double the power of the original 3 litre. In first gear, if you floor it at 30km/h it instantly frys both rear tyres to 65km/h on most surfaces in the dry. People that saw me on that Melbourne cruise a couple of months back can verify that Having 225/50/16's on the back improves things for 2 reasons - The rolling diameter is greater therefore less torque is transmitted from the engine to the contact patch between the tyre and road. Secondly, the contact patch is bigger. My gripe is when I lose a drag race to the considerably more powerful and heavier 300KW VX LS1 Holden Commodore. I am on the edge of breaking traction but the Commodore has ****eloads of grip and simply out accelerates me. From a rolling start in second from 70km/h (to Victoria's limit of 110km/h out of the city besides thats when the rev limiter hits in second gear) we are pretty much even. Some cars do have insufficient traction..... My old R32 had heaps when I pulled the 4WD fuse out to make it RWD...

If it's just when you start up, are you sure it is not the common problem of the electronic ventilation system making the clicking noises...?

From memory, it is a tube that sucks air into the sensor which is elsewhere... I dont have the R32 anymore so I cant tell you exactly The trick is to hold the down arrow for 5 seconds after it gets to 18 degrees and FC comes up, it stands for F...ing Cold, vice versa when it gets to max temp, hold it up and FH comes up