Bozz

bump, still have lots of bits pictures HERE (click)

Nope. Driver side is absolutely perfect, $200 firm. Passenger side I'm willing to negotiate on, its missing the GT badge.

updated

To add to my previous post about using an R31 pump, you may need the mount that holds the compressor to the engine block. I know for certain the mount is different between R31 to R33, not certain for R32.

LastTemptation, no holes at all, its pretty much perfect.

Look through the pictures in the first post, I have listed prices. Get back to me if you're interested.

I would have suggested turning the low beams on while having removed the high beam lamp and going for a drive. Nothing like 55w of heat to dry out some moisture

Will an R31 Skyline/VL commodore compressor fit? They're both R12 systems and can be picked up for well under $50. Perhaps another $50 to have different flanges welded on though.

Nope, ashtray is broken.

We do have this part however we are not sure if we need it at this stage. Will let you know in the next few days.

Updated

The complete engine is sold. I have no parts left from the engine.

Dsturbd: Box is sold pinoi_boi_r33: check PM ApacheX: Nope, went with the engine. You probably know but the S1 and S2 AFM's are different, the S2 is a 3 wire/3 pin unit and the S1 is a 5 pin/4 wire unit.

Updated. Also have: Alternator $100 Power steering pump $40 Castor Rods $50 each Castor rod mounts $75 each Lower control arm fr with ball joint $75 each

Heres another possiblity- Check pin 9 on the ECU. This is the air conditioner idle-up input. When you switch on the air conditioner, it will pull this pin to ground (zero volts). This triggers the idle up sequence that opens the AAC valve to supply a bit of extra power to the engine at idle. When you switch off the air conditioner, this pin should rise to 12v (open circuit)

Updated the parts photos this morning. www.fullysikmate.com/bozz/r33/r33interior.htm

gtrGhosTDoGG11 - no, why do people ask for the control panel? Is there a common problem that the windows dont want to move with it? I've repaired one in the past, it was only dry solder joints. They dont look dry, use a relatively powerful electronics soldering iron (30w so no plumbing irons ) and go over each joint. Should work afterwards....

SkylineGeoff - I am not certain whether or not the recepient of the engine requires the air con compressor, I will get back to you early next week. Predator - will answer your Q on Saturday by the time I've pulled it apart that far. EnricoPalazzo - Sorry dont have rear half of car, should have mentioned in first post. lindsey34, check PM --edit-- dave, sorry to you too, I should have mentioned it was only a complete front cut, I'm missing everything from behind the gearstick. No doors unfortunately.

Available: Update! 26/5/2004 Pictures HERE (click) These parts are available. If it is not listed here then it has been sold or is not available. Please do not ask for parts that are not listed here or I will give you a ridiculously high price and after you've paid for it, I'll go to a wrecker and buy it really cheap and send it to you. phorj now has all of the parts, please PM him with enquiries: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/pr...do=newpm&u=1333 KYB Gear Climb struts. RS*R springs $300 ono for the front pair Quarter Panel black (click) $150 each Steering rack $100 K-frame $75 Power steering pump $40 or rack, K-frame and pump for $150 together Manual pedals set $150 Clutch master cylinder $30 Steering column with 2 keys $20 Brake Master Cylinder & booster $80 HKS Turbo Timer $40 Alternator $55 Castor Rods $40 each Front hub $20 each Front upper control arm $20 each Front lower control arm with ball joint $75 each Front 1/4 panels $150 ono each Windscreen Washer bottle $20 Radiator overflow bottle(missing cap) $20 HVAC Fan Blower: $20 HVAC unit: $100 Dashboard plastic Garnish inc vents and buttons $100 Instrument Cluster Garnish: $30 Hicas sensor unit for standard steering wheel: $10 Indicator Stalk assy: $40 Steering wheel surround (Has small mounting holes where turbo timer used to be): $10 Sold: Engine RB25DET (inc turbo, intake, exhaust, loom, ECU, airbox, clutch, everything) Gearbox Bonnet Headlights Bumper & support Radiator Radiator support Castor rod mounts Front Brakes; 4 spot calipers,Rotors. Air Conditioning compressor Air Conditioning condensor Steering Wheel Dashboard Glovebox Climate Control button assy Located in east suburbs Melbourne. Will ship interstate at buyers expense. Direct deposit or cash only.

All stock It went straight away so no longer available

In Melbourne Engine has 40,000km. 1997 Series 2, complete with wiring loom, ECU, turbo, all sensors, everything. Gearbox is the RB25DET large box with crossmember. Tailshaft is a custom single piece using 3" tube with the RB25DET/RB30ET gearbox yoke welded to it, with the R31 Skyline diff flange on the other end. Both unijoints are new and user replaceable. Exhaust is 3" cat, 3" resonator and 2x 2.5" straight through redback mufflers. Its almost competely silent. Is currently installed in car, can be driven, any test is welcome. Can be installed in your R31 over a 3 or 4 day period, 3rd or 4th week of Janurary 2004. Drive in, drive out. $4,500.

The various flavours of stories going around about any damage to the roof means the car is a write off are usually a load of shit If its panel damage, the roof panel can very easily be removed and a new one fitted. If somebody has jumped on your roof and crumpled it in, its again a relatively simple job to replace it for a pro. However, when you have a severe accident and the roof bends/buckles then the car is often a write off. The roof skeleton is a structural component of most monoque chassis vehicles (as is the front and rear windscreens). The reason the roof buckles is because the remainder of the chassis has deformed in a manner to affect the roof.

Thanks for the advice nismo_simo, i'll give a bit more info - The o2 sensor I swapped it with is 6,000km old from my car (R31 RB25DET) that's and running absolutely perfectly with 600km per tank (50 litres) on the highway and about 500km/tank around town. It made no difference whatsoever. The o2 sensor sends a 0-1 volt variation to the ECU which regularly trims the mixture settings around the feedback it receives. At idle, the sensor can only swap around two or three times per second because its not hot enough from all the exhaust gas. At full noise it should alternate hundreds of times per second. This one responds perfectly and exactly how it should. This is a conversion and I haven't driven it yet. I'm unable to find out how the engine ran in the previous car before it got removed. To cut a long story short, it aint the o2 sensor ---------- Back to bagging other cars, I also forgot to mention that its not just homies and dorifto wannabe's that I hate, I also passionately dislike most people who *tastelessly* rice their econoboxes then somehow attempt to prove how superior they are.

nismo simo - the problem is, on another RB25DET next to this car, I can unplug the o2 sensor, AAC valve, AFM, VVT solenoid and the TPS and it doesn't idle like this, it only idles high at about 1500rpm with no misfiring. The idle hasn't been adjusted before so by attempting to do so would be masking up the original problem

Cheers for that explanation Zensoku. BTW - I've got nothing against Commodores (or most other cars), only P platers and homies in them (or any car) that think they're a dorifto king in a packed carpark.