Bozz

Cheers mate, I'm hopefully back again... Having owned a "family" car for the past 5 or so years while paying off the house, the most recent being an "upgraded" EL fowl can (I say upgraded, I couldn't bring myself to say improved since it's merely a polished turd ), I realised you can only go so far with these things. Time for a fun car again, not a whale. In essence, it isn't as bad as I read on multiple forums of imports regularly being picked on and unfairly canaried if you dont drive like a wanker. I understand there will be a higher chance of randomly being pulled over but I've never been randomly pulled over in my stock looking family car, only the usual breath tests and stuff.

I used to have an R32 when they were rare around 5-7 years ago and sold it to buy property. I'm interested in an R32 GTR or GTS4 or R34 GTR. The time has come to return to cheap performance so it'll probably be a GTS4 so I dont really care if it gets damaged in a shopping centre and wont mind leaving it alone in the city. I'm curious whether the revenue collectors are targetting them for no reason. I've heard plenty about bastard cops picking on individuals but I'd like a fuller story; My situation would be as follows - lets say your car looks stock and is well within the legal sound limits without any stickers, wanky gauges or other aftermarket products or rice crap like neons and blue headlights to attract attention to yourself, you've lost less than 5 demerit points in the previous 10 years and drive an import, whether S13/4/5, R32/3/4 or any of the other cars as portayed by retarded bigots as "hoon cars" on current affair shows, how often do you unreasonably get pulled over and harrassed/defected etc? Cheers

My apologies for being away for the past week and not replying to PM's. I got called away to rural parts of Victoria for work and was away from the desktop computer which had my SAU PW. I'm currently inundated with work and wont have time to get to a post office. I still have everything, i'm fine to wait if people still want the stuff, if not then no worries.

Its too big to aussie post so if you know of a courier that could pick it up and take it to you I might be able to find a box to pack it. Realistically its probably way too big to post so it'd be a pickup-only thing.

Hard to say because its an oddball shape. Here is a guesstimate of the box I'd need to find of 1m x 30cm x 30cm www.auspost.com.au says $20.70c plus $2.50 registered post so its not cheap. It all depends on what sort of box I can find that'll ship it to ya.

Hi, Got these R33 parts and asking prices: Black Front drivers 1/4 panel $120 (photos coming soon) Black front passenger 1/4 panel missing GT badge $100 (photos coming soon) Front steering rack & K frame (crossmember been sitting outside for 2 years - has PS pump and reseviour but I bet they're probably no good) $50 Front Gear Climb struts & RS*R springs $80 (Sold I think) Manual pedal kit - clutch, brake, accel, clutch master & slave cyl & piping $150 Main HVAC unit (heater core and stuff in the middle of the dash) $50 Air con evaporator $20 HVAC fan $15 Climate control button & electronics assy $40 Dashboard garnish between radio, instrument cluster etc $100 Plastic under drivers knees $10 (sold I think) Steering column surround has holes from turbo timer mounting $10 (sold I think) Indicator & wiper stalk & switch assy $20 (sold I think) Front castor rods with urethane bushes $30 R34 GT-T (I think its GT-T - the gearbox is smaller than the R33 GTS25t gearbox, about the same size as the R32 5spd box) manual gearbox only - no accessories or clutch or flywheel $500 (pictures coming soon) I dont have anything else so please dont ask for parts not listed above. PM me an email address for photos. Cheers!

bump, still have this if anyone wants it.

Just a very important warning if you're going to sharpen the blades, MAKE SURE you unplug the spark plug. Just rotating the blades by hand a little bit is sometimes enough to make the mower start and chop your hands to bits. Unplugging the spark plug wire guarantees it cannot start.

98 octane is actually worse for those mowers since they have such low compression. Just use standard 91 octane fuel. Mix the minimum recommended amount of 2 stroke oil in the petrol. The more oil you add, the less power you get. Typically they ask 25:1 up to 50:1 for some models. Best bet is for every litre of fuel, add about 20-30ml of 2 stroke oil and shake it up well. Old petrol will make a mower run like crap and stall and not start easily. If you only mow once every month or two, only buy a litre of petrol every time. The carby might need a clean. If its the standard plastic carby I'm thinking of, they're a piss easy to pull apart and clean. The rear is clipped on, unclip it, unscrew everything and lay it down in order it was removed on a bench. There are only about 10 parts total including the housing, its a painfully simple design. The floats commonly get heaps of muck and crap (often water) in there which stops the carby from supplying fuel reliably. Water is heavier than fuel and usually gets picked up from the bottom of the float chamber and therefore the mower runs like crap. Same with the petrol tank, if water is in there, it will be at the bottom, empty a bit of petrol out from the hose going to the carby and see if it is a different color. If so, drain the tank and refill with fresh fuel. Dont worry about removing the exhaust on the 2 stroke mowers, you get SFA improvment and HEAPS of noise. If you need more help and are willing to try taking it apart, let me know. I've fixed a dozen or so victa's in the past so I sort of know how they work.

RB20DET plugs that plug into the coil packs are getting very brittle at this age, another possiblilty is simply unplugging and replugging in all the connectors on all 6 coils. It's free to try and i've had a few doing this very symptom.

Just out of curiosity, if you're changing into 3rd, 4th and 5th at full throttle/rev points, what speeds are you doing and where?

R30 from 1989? Didn't the R30's final year of production cease in 1986, after that was R31? If its an R31 I can help, remove the instrument cluster and resolder all the dry joints on the various circuit boards within. There are two electrolytic capacitors on the speedo PCB that may also need replacing to get it to work. Should take a few hours to fix. The high end cluster wont just bolt in because the low end models have an oil pressure switch that is on or off for the oil warning lamp, the higher models have a sender to drive the gauge.

I suspect it will bolt straight in but you may need a new clutch slave cylinder. I could be wrong though. Offer a price via PM and you may be lucky and get it.

Yep its sold, sorry mate.

Thanks to everyone who replied, 1) Keep em coming and 2) I'll be visiting most of the mentioned panel shops, I'm in the outer east suburbs so if any more that way, please let me know. Thanks!

Have a car that was hit in a carpark and the other driver fled the scene. The other driver has since been identified thanks to witnesses and is being charged with various offences. Now I need to know a panel beater who can do exceptionally good repair work with no expense spared. If you can help, please PM me with recommendations and more information. Thanks

Absolutely no idea I'd imagine the answer is the same tailshaft will fit but I've never swapped a 31/32/33 gearbox for an R34 one. The only different gearbox I know of is the GT-R, VL turbo commodore and R33 GTS25t gearbox that uses the huge tailshaft yoke

How does $60 sound?

I've replied to two PM's who got in before you AlexCim, if either of them two dont pick it up tonight, you get the opportunity tomorrow. funkymonkey - dont know gaffa?? Its out of a ceffy. I haven't photographed the ECU but it comes with it as well. Cheers

Here are all the interior plastics I still have Make a reasonable offer on anything not listed

The drivers side 1/4 is perfect, the passenger side is missing the GT badge and not as good condition. I'll sell the passenger side panel for $100

Pick up only, not seperating anything, take it as it is.

I'm not seperating any parts, take the whole lot or nothing. I'll get a picture up soon.

Item: rb20e Location: outer east, melb Item Condition: good (been sitting outside for a year) Reason for Selling: motor is too fast for me Price and Payment Conditions: more than you can afford pal! (free) Extra Info: I hate pigeons and tailgaters Contact Details: reply here or PM me If anyone has any need whatsoever for an RB20E engine they can have one with about 70,000km on it. Was driving perfectly before the owner of the car decided he wanted to downgrade performance and fit an RB25DET and 5 speed manual so if you are interested in a serious high performance motor, you can have this one.

Phil, It *may* be a dodgy wiring connection or ABS wheel sender. These usually show up as a fault code on the 4WD/ABS computer in the boot as intermittent faults are typically logged. On the other hand, it might be getting dodgy signals from the wheels so the computer is thinking there is wheel slip and its engaging 4WD. I've repaired this once before and all it took was unplugging and replugging in the ABS wheel speed senders (which also tell the ECU when to engage 4WD by difference of speed). Try that and failing it, let us know. Cheers