Bozz

I think I worded my post badly above It's the factory fuel pressure regulator, I just call it a rising rate reg because its got a vacuum/boost connection to the plenum hence the fuel pressure will vary depending on plenum pressure. Now need fuel pressure tester.

Pin 53 isn't connected since its a conversion. I've never had issues with not connecting this pin before though, I might try earthing it via a 1k resistor or something to ensure its not getting spurious signal interference. No aftermarket BOV, no vacuum leaks anywhere that I can see, hear or test. Fuel pressure I haven't checked. Its quite possible its the fuel pressure regulator. Vacuum or atmo pressure on the rising rate reg makes no difference in idle. Also tried crimping the fuel return line to bump up the pressure and that makes no difference in idle. I'd dare say it could be too high a fuel pressure making it rich at idle. Its not the o2 sensor - swap tested. I just assumed it wouldn't be a coil pack since it should break down at high RPM/high speed. Its a few cylinders randomly misfiring, not just one.

Its not earths, I just did the wiring and have triple checked everything. Its not the AAC valve, unplugging it and replugging it in makes a huge difference in idle. Exact same effect on engine with no problems. Timing will not make an engine run like this. Its also not injectors, swap tested. Its a strange one indeed, keep the ideas coming Now I think its something like a cam out of time

I've already said I've replaced the airflow meter, read my initial post. The whole idea of asking on here is to help me get ideas so I dont have to take it to a mechanic. -------- Update - I've compared all pins from this engine (series 1) with all pins from a series 2 RB25DET while idling. All voltages and waveforms are identical. Its definitely going to be an ignitor or injector causing the problem.

Its as if it has a lumpy cam, when brought above about 2000rpm it runs perfectly, has good boost and power, everything sounds spot on. When it falls back to idle it runs like poo. What its not - ECU (swap tested) Oxygen sensor (swap tested) AFM (swap tested) The ECU reports code 55 so it thinks everything is fine. Its not (to the best of my knowledge) a vacuum leak. Crimped every hose and tested. The crankcase is pressurised, opening the oil filler alters the idle a fair bit. Tried crimping the fuel return hose to see if the injectors were sticky. No difference. Got a thread on PF about the exact same thing here: http://board.performanceforums.com/forums/...9579#post679579 I'm running out of ideas.....

Should'a just called me to begin with BTW can I borrow your car for a few hours one of these days, need to swap bits to find a fault...

Can help with removal if needed.

Needs new blades but starts very easy

Excuse me? You've weighed and driven RB20DET and RB25DET equipped S13's? Didn't think so. The RB25DET is only slightly heavier than the RB20DET, although it is a far superior engine in most ways. Perhaps you should question what you have been told by dickheads who dont know what they're talking about and dont repeat said rubbish by passing on your 2 yen.

RB20DET deck height is considerably shorter than 25 RB20DET does not need modified mounts in S13, RB25DET does to enable the engine to sit lower so the bonnet can close. RB30 deck height again is taller than 25

Wanna bet?

The wires are there in the R32's for the electric seat belt retainers - you may notice sometimes that the seat belt will not automatically retract or have any force on it wanting it to retract. As soon as you undo the belt from the buckle, it automatically retracts. This was as a comfort feature, I thought it was rather stupid personally and disconnected it, thus always having tension from the belt on my chest.

Bit of advice for you: Get it running right first with what you have. By putting an aftermarket ECU or piggyback controller, you are merely masking up any original problems you have. The reason its stalling and running rich is there is no BOV. Put the factory recirculating one or any non-rice recirculating one (if you plan on running more than 12-14psi) and you'll see your car will stop spewing out unburnt petrol onto your bumper. Its not a blown HG or anything else serious. At worst there are a few vacuum hoses that may be leaky. Using the stock turbo, putting it to 11-13 PSI will result in 160rwkw with your setup. It will reduce the life of the turbo though, its unknown how much by though, may be a week, may be 5 years. Expect 140+rwkw as it is.

1) Dont use a turbo timer, they make the car exponentially easier to steal. 2) Refer to point 1. 3) Be very careful who you get to do your electrics. Most people will do a very average job and not make things easy to remove/repair/modify for whatever reasons may arrise in the future. 4) Engine mounts and sump need to be modified to allow bonnet to close (certain for Silvia, uncertain for 180sx) 5) Refer to point 1. 6) Ask whoever is doing the electrics to show you evidence of previous work. Do not just accept "Yes I did it moite and it worked well moite).

Yes thats what I thought too, the electrics were easier to pick up on the 180 because I grabbed what I needed for the ECU wiring from the headlight relay box on the passenger side. The Silvia didn't have it and I had to run the cables elsewhere and unwrap and rewrap looms to make it all look factory. Fuel pump wiring was also easier on the 180. A number of other things but thats all I can remember off the top of my head.

I've never seen the R32 GTS4 manual box however the auto is a standard RE4R Nissan piece with the 4th housing the transfer case. In the non-4WD models, the auto is identical with an extension housing in place of the transfer case. The R32 gearbox is the weak type compared to the R33 GTS25t type and I doubt the 4WD transfer case will bolt up since its a 3 piece device. Can anybody else shed some light or get a photo of the 4WD GTS4 manual box, or is it identical to the GT-R box?

To add to that, I mean with a new cooler (such as a GTR cooler) and modified plenum. Makes everything fit a lot more snugly in the engine bay

I've wired up two S13's for the RB25DET, one a 180sx the other a Silvia, let me assure you it will be considerably more than 5-6K, will be closer to 8-12K from start to end. The electrics in the 180 were considerably easier than in the Silvia, who'd have thought.

Your AFM is fine, the problem is you dont have a BOV at all, when you back off the throttle after using some boost, you get the fluttering noise through the induction. That noise is air rushing back and forth past your AFM. Unfortunately, AFM's aren't clever enough to know whether air is going backwards or forwards past them and simply meter it as air going into your motor. Its just as bad as having an atmo venting BOV. Connect your recirculating BOV and it will fix all problems.

Heh, meg's just pointed me to this thread, I knew you'd be happy with the stock power it makes No traction in first all not even close to redline She's an absolute beauty, very impressive conversion. I'm wanting one now. Can't decide whether to wait for an R32 GT-R (I really miss the 4WD of my old GTS4) or do something as nutty as this car.... The engine really is perfect for this car, once the power steering is setup it'll be great to see its handling outcome...

Bit like the 386 and 486 days, you know, before Windows 95 But hey, they were 0.5-1 second boot times, perhaps 1.5 sec if you used Speeddrive and QEMM386 for improved performance But anyway, the HD sold for $130 a couple of days after the post.

Sorry champ, its sold.

Have no software anymore, it all went when I sold my laptop. I simply used netmeeting and the camera drivers. Resolution is 640x480 so its no high res camera but like said its far better than most webcams

Uses a CCD sensor so it's got a far better picture quality than 99% of webcams that use a CMOS sensor. Has apeture adjustment 2.4 - 8 and manual focus with variable shutter speed. Will focus right up to the lens with excellent clarity. Works with notebooks with a PCMCIA slot on the left hand side, Pentium 100 or faster. $90

alinche, if i've ever seen an incorrest statement, its yours. It will not improve everything, ie CPU speed, it will not improve gaming frame per second performance, it will not improve video encoding performance, it will not make a noticeable difference in internet speed unless you have cable/high speed DSL. What it will do is DRAMATICALLY improve anything that requires hard drive access. Since it will be well over 5 times faster than a comparable drive under 10 gig, it will make a very noticeable reduction to boot speed, program loading times, paging memroy to the hard disk etc. Most P2 boards will support at least UDMA3 (ATA33) and that is about the highest sustained rate of today's hard drives. Typically 30 Mb per second.